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Jointer Technique/safety issue.........

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  • Jointer Technique/safety issue.........

    This is going to be a two part question, both probably woodworking 101 but i am a firm believer their are no stupid questions only stupid people!

    ok first problem, with regard to my JP6010 (yes the safey guard is installed on this tool dave! [img]smile.gif[/img] running wood through using the push blocks is very uncomfortable for me for some reason. when edge jointing i find myself feeding the wood through with my hands. speed is perfect and i get one good side. now the problem is when i flip the board to run one side over it. when edge jointing i have at least 6" and the guard is on so i dont worry so much about feeding with my hand, but when doing one face, i only have a little more or a little less than 3/4" which is a little too close for comfort with my hands. so i find myself starting with my hand and then using my table saw push stick near the end to get it throgh, when i joint the edges i get NO snipe. but when i joint the one face, because of the speed/pressure applied while picking up the table saw tool i end up with snipe. the push blocks for some reason are very uncomfortable/awkward and i end up with snipe here too. whats the technique for the push blocks? just something to get used to?

    ok now this is the 2nd half and this is a woodworking 101 question. actually this is probably a pre woodworking 101 question. when you joint the face of a board you have a square surface with relation to the jointed edge. so now why can you not just flip the board and use the same jointed edge as a reference to square up the other face?

    someone did explain this once before but i can not find the thread and my memory sucks.

    so how do i get rid of the snipe using the push blocks?

    and then the 2nd one.

    wishing you all a happy thanksgiving and thanking you in advance for your help


  • #2
    1. Using the pushstick you are probably applying downward pressure on the infeed table. That is a no-no and is what is causing "snipe". You should use the pushblocks applying pressure on the infeed side only until the board reaches the outfeed table and then apply downward pressure only on the outfeed side and directly over the knives. I don't see a problem with using your hands for edge jointing. I do it . I really don't have to add "as long as you're careful" do I? I havn't had a problem using pushblocks. I guess it's something you'll have to get used to.
    2. You can joint both faces flat like you said, but they won't be parallel to each other. Thicker at one end than the other. That's what a planer is for. Hope that helps.
    Disclaimer: I'm no expert, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express once.
    Happy Thanksgiving. [img]smile.gif[/img]
    "Did you put the yellow key in the switch?" TOD 01/09/06


    • #3
      Ed, I use a long thin push block that puts the pressure about 7-8 inches in from the back edge of the board. this prevents too much down pressure on the back end of the board and eliminates snipe. I don't have a pic of it but here is a quick sketch.

      [ 11-25-2004, 09:26 AM: Message edited by: papadan ]
      info for all: --- "I like long walks, especially when they are taken by people who annoy me."


      • #4
        Lorax, not going to say you are wrong but I have a different opinion on the infeed / outfeed pressure. IMHO it really does not matter where you put the pressure if your machine is setup properly as the infeed and outfeed tables are dead on parallel. I generally use the method you describe except I never put pressure right over the knives because there is no support there and in thin (1/2") softwood the more pressure you apply the more wood you will remove and end up with a cup.

        Ed, I would suggest you face join first and then use that large flat surface against the fence to edge join. I know what you mean about the push blocks and came across the suggestion to use grout floats awhile ago and they work much better. Larger surface area and no slipping. I would also suggest you put a coat of Johnsons paste wax on the tables to aid in sliding the wood (also prevents rust). Never use car wax as it contains silicone and will bugger up your finishing

        BTW Thanksgiving was October 11 you missed it!
        Happy US Thanksgiving


        • #5
          OK, let's compromise and say most of the downward pressure goes on the outfeed table with enough pressure over the knives just to maintain full contact. [img]smile.gif[/img] The tables should be co-planar but the wood is rough and pressure on the infeed table will just carry the unevenness through the jointer.
          I like the idea of the grout floats. I may give that a try. [img]smile.gif[/img]
          "Did you put the yellow key in the switch?" TOD 01/09/06


          • #6
            Push blocks take some getting used to. Practice on some scrap softwoods until you get the hang of them. Slip once over the knives without them and you will probably be a convert. I have never slipped but I'm not taking a chance.


            • #7
              There's a lot of subtle weight changes in where you focus downward force. The way I learned, the side with the most stock on it, gets the most weight, so after more than half of the stock is on the outfeed table, it gets more of your weight---or simply put more weight on your left foot.

              As to feeling comfortable----it's never a good idea to have hands or pushblocks over the cutter head----pretty much it's a matter of keeping the push blocks "stepping". I generally try to center a block in the middle of one side or the other. Also, generally, I do like having one block or push stick on the end of the board---the trick is that your force vector/direction must change from totally down, to down and left.

              As to order--as was said, flatten one face----put it against the fence and joint one edge---if there's a bow, the bow/convex side down---then get your parallel face/edges on the table saw and surface planer.