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Ridgid bandsaw preformace

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  • Ridgid bandsaw preformace

    How has anyone improved the factory set up?
    Add cool blocks? Wheel guides?
    How about one of those timber wolf blades?
    Are these things much of a improvement?
    Or just Yuppie asessories?

  • #2
    Cool Blocks I feel is a must for any application. I'm not fond of the roller guides as I often use 1/8" blades.
    Other mods are per your use of the saw. I will say the quick release is a good investment, or adding a hand wheel or crank in place of the knob.
    Blades do make a significant difference, but depending on the application if it is an improvement or not. Cheaper blades at the weld have a slight deflection. For precission cutting, not good. A circle jig is a great thing to have and many plans are available out there. A reliable fence that can adjust for drift is also handy. The miter gauge from your table saw will work when needed.

    I would have to say if running a dust collection system, the best improvement would be to add the 4" port to the lower door. The 2 1/2" port under the table does little better than 50% at best.

    (Edit) Almost forgot...Riser block I feel is a must.

    [ 06-29-2003, 12:13 AM: Message edited by: UO_Woody ]
    John E. Adams<br /><a href=\"http://www.woodys-workshop.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.woodys-workshop.com</a>

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    • #3
      Only thing I've done to mine so far is a new blade. It is 10x better than what I remember the stock one to be. In the future, I'll probably cut out for a 4" dust port and add the riser blocks and a set of cool blocks. i really don't think buying the roller guides would be worth the $$ since you can get a nice steel frame job (a grizz or comparable) for the same cost as the Ridgid plus all the add-ons. If I ever have the money to upgrade to a new bandsaw, I'm getting the 18" jet. -Soooo Sweet, even if it is $1K.

      Almost forgot. Make a table and fence like the ones in recent issues of the mags. The tables really help and since you can attach jigs, you'll think you have a new saw.

      [ 06-29-2003, 07:23 PM: Message edited by: Mike3206 ]

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      • #4
        I added the Hercu-Lift-Plus for great mobility, also bought the fence, mitre gauge, and later a new blade. The blade actually let me cut square to the mitre guage! Since it only takes a few seconds to back off the blade tension after using-I still use the original knob.

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        • #5
          Get ceramic coolblocks very smooth and worth the money for the good they do for the blades.
          I came...<br /><br />I saw...<br /><br />I changed the plans.

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          • #6
            MLE __ what mods have you done to date? I been using the olsen blades also - pretty decnt blades. Riser block IMO is real must. Cool blocks too.
            All in all I have been pretty happy with this bs -could not locate a hercu-lift at time so bought the $19 Harbor Freight bases, used hardwood stringers with platform base. No vibration, easy to move and pleased with setup. At under $28 total it's viable option.Enjoy

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            • #7
              Hi Y'all..wonder where to buy the special file to round off the back edge of band saw blades?

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              • #8
                Received a riser kit last week, thank you D. Csaszar.
                Today I picked up new "All Pro" blades and cool blocks.
                Had to travel out of the area to get everything, but I think it will be worth it.
                Hope to get it set up today.
                I'll post how it went as soon as It's done and tested.

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                • #9
                  [QUOTE]Originally posted by Cal:
                  Hi Y'all..wonder where to buy the special file to round off the back edge of band saw blades? [/QUOTE

                  Not to sound like a dumb *** but why do you want too....

                  If I wanted to do this, I would use my Dermel tool with a 1/2" grinding stone on it. And with both the BS and Dermal running carefully round off the back side..But other than smoothing out where the weld is I don't know why you would want to...Please inform me...

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                  • #10
                    Rounding of the rear blade area on a band saw allows the blade to track a radius more accurately by allowing the "rounded" rear of the blade to slide through the kerf rather than have a hard edge exerting a force on the kerf.

                    A file is not necessary to accomplish this. All one needs is a honing stone (I like hard stones)and a drop of oil ( I like Triflow ). Run the blade and slowly rotate the stone around the rear of the blade.

                    [ 12-08-2003, 08:34 PM: Message edited by: Desmo888 ]

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                    • #11
                      I see...And now that I think about it I bet it helps when backing out of a cut also.....Thanks Think I'll give it a try....

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                      • #12
                        Thanks Desmo...will do that ASAP.

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                        • #13
                          I find cool blocks great for scroll work with narrow blades. Don't throw away the steel blades. They work best when resawing. Cool blocks wear faster when resawing and allow the blade to wonder. Found that advisae in Mark Duginskis book. Hope I didn't butcher his name to bad.

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                          • #14
                            I have a 14" Jet band saw and am not very familar with the Ridgid, but there are after market accessories that will improve the performance of most bandsaws. Good blades, such as Timber Wolf, and cool blocks are probably the two most important aside from properly setting up the saw and selecting proper blade and tensioning the blade. Although I purchased the Jet fence and riser blocks, I made a mistake in purchasing the fence (riser blocks are good). If I were purchasing a fence, I would go with the Fastrack fence system with resaw attachment(s) and micro-adjuster. The Fastrack system has greater adjustability for blade drift than the Jet fence. This has caused probables for me a couple of times and I've had to use a homemade fence and c-clamps.
                            Other nice things. Carter makes some expensive guides that are very good, I'm told. Iturra makes a cheaper and easier to install version of roller guides, which I use on blades larger than 1/4". Iturra also makes machined bearings and stronger tensioning springs that are good replacements when the originals wear out. Carter also makes something called a blade stabilizer that is designed for use with small blades and replaces the upper guides. I recently bought a stabilizer but haven't used it yet. Cool blocks are great, but with the blade stabilizer you simply back of the lower blade guides. This is a great convenience for an older , fat guy who hates adjusting the lower guides and bearing.

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                            • #15
                              I have the Jet fence on the Ridgid and have not experienced any problems. I do not have the riser kit because I think if you need to cut over 6" this is not the saw to do it with. I have the cool blocks and Timberwolf blades, which do not need to be rounded at the back. The steel stock blocks generate a lot of heat and I do not use them at all. If you are wanting to save money because the blocks wear, then the ceramic are better in that way but the blade will get hotter.

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