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  • #16
    Re: Used Ridgid saws - worth?

    i know what you mean. i have two. one a TS and one on a RAS. i was lucky, after selling my last one for around $70, to find one for $20. i'm hoarding that one for future use.
    there's a solution to every problem.....you just have to be willing to find it.

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    • #17
      Re: Used Ridgid saws - worth?

      Alexdi - I have PM'ed you

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      • #18
        Re: Used Ridgid saws - worth?

        The two Ridgid saws I was considering ultimately sold or the sellers were nonresponsive. In the interim, I noticed a Craftsman 315.228490 for $200 that was lightly used. It's an Emerson-style contractor's saw circa-2002, with an iron table and a mobile base that appears to have a lot in common with the Ridgid TS2424. It appears to be a quality saw, so I bought it.

        Manual:
        http://dl.dropbox.com/u/163210/share...315.228490.pdf

        Parts diagram of motor assembly:
        http://c.searspartsdirect.com/lis_pn...1015-00009.png

        Unfortunately, I've got two related problems with it. The bevel adjustment becomes very, very tight after about 30 degrees. The amount of effort required to twist the knob actually distorts the cabinet and an internal reinforcing bar 1/3" where the adjustment screw enters. The owner said he rarely ever used the bevel, so I assumed it had to be accumulated sludge or the like. The saw is still technically capable of moving to 45 degrees.

        When I stripped the saw down, I discovered one of the curved holders that holds the trunnion assembly to the table (part 7 in the diagram above) had a 1/4" chip on one side of the curve section. Both holders have microcracks in them. Also, while they're ostensibly symmetrical, switching them switched the adjustment issue. It's then sticky between 0-15 degrees, but moves smoothly to 45. This stickiness occurs even when the holders are unmounted and I'm manually manipulating each one. The contact areas don't seem to have any burrs or rough spots to the touch, though.

        So I guess my question is, is this typical? And are the current holders safe? Two replacement holders would cost about $35. Do you suppose the replacement parts would fix this problem? I paid $200 for the saw. The seller seems like a decent guy, he'd probably take it back if I told him it was defective, except he's a 100-mile round trip I'd prefer to avoid and the saw appears otherwise a peach.

        I appreciate the help, I'm already regretting not holding out for a Ridgid.

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        • #19
          Re: Used Ridgid saws - worth?

          My last post is still pending moderation, so a quick update:

          On closer inspection, I decided the micro-cracks weren't so pivotal, so I reassembled the saw. With lubricant (WD-40 for lack of anything else) on the half-moon trunnion slides, they actually do work acceptably. The increased resistance from the trunnion assembly at 0 degrees matches the resistance from the weight of the motor as the bevel approaches 45 degrees.

          I'm still not sure if I want to keep the saw. Every part of it is probably way out of alignment and I don't have tools to fix that yet. It has a split fence rails and a 24" rip capacity. The fence gets caught on the split, so anything closer than 4" to the blade requires fiddling to get it over the edge. Removing the splitter is a PITA, as is the mobile base design. The bevel adjustment uses an incredibly weak part of the side sheetmetal for support and clearly needs a reinforcement bar. Without it, the bevel stops are very squishy. My impression is that the TS36XX and onward solve most of these problems. The $100 price differential doesn't seem nearly as consequential now that I'm factoring in dust control, third-party blade guards, magnetic featherboards, and so on.

          Balancing all that is that it's clearly powerful and capable. Intimidatingly so, even. It's quiet. It won't pass the nickel test, though I'm not sure how it could. Running the motor by itself causes just as much vibration as with the saw blade attached. I don't suppose it's possible for a motor pulley to be out of true?

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          • #20
            Re: Used Ridgid saws - worth?

            I bought a TS2424 off of Craigslist a couple of years ago and have been very happy with it. I upgraded from a worn out direct drive Craftsman.
            I have been thinking of changing to a 3650 recently, but will stay put after reading this thread.

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            • #21
              Re: Used Ridgid saws - worth?

              any chance you could post a youtube video of the motor under operation? pictures being worth a thousand words, and all that.

              the motor should be smooth enough that a nickel balanced on it's edge on the solid CI top will remain balanced on it's edge from the time the power on switch is placed in the on position ( and the motor begins running), through an operation period (about 3 minutes without cutting any material) and motor shutdown. check the motor pulley and the arbor pulley. if either are bent or don't appear to be turning with no vibration or "fluttering" at all, they should be replaced. i would get this:

              Contractor Saw Performace Package - In-Line Industries

              if you are using the saw with the same drive belt that was on it when you bought it, it could have acquired a "set" from sitting unused for too long. i have the above on one of my table saws and it makes my 10" emerson built 1960s vintage c-man TS pass the nickel test even while cutting material ( if i wasn't so cheap, i'd change the ribbed belt and pulleys on my 2412 for that set up too).

              IMHO, a complete tune up would help both the saw's performance and your familiarity with it. this is a pretty good starting point:

              Table Saw Basics - Alignment - NewWoodworker.com LLC


              these saws are really prety basic once they are flipped over so the innards can be viewed. and regarding the fence, since there's only $50 in the saw, this is an excellent replacement for whatever is there:

              Delta 36-T30 30" T2 Fence System

              you can't buy a better new t-square fence for $154. not meaning to sound like a broken record, but i have one of those also and it's a really good fence, period.

              hope this helps get you started. properly set up, there isn't a lot that saw can't handle.
              there's a solution to every problem.....you just have to be willing to find it.

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