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  • New table saw question

    I recently purchased the Ridgid TS2412 tablesaw and am slowly getting my shop all set up. Last night I was aligning the blade to the miter slot and noticed a bit of 'wobble' in the blade as I rotated it. What is the best way to measure this wobble, and what is considered an acceptable amount?

    (Rookie woodworker here, this is my first TS)

  • #2
    The best method is using a dial indicator, but most people don't have access to one so try this. Using a combination square set up as you would if you were checking the heal, set a sharp pencil in the grove on the ruler of the square. Touch the pencil to the blade just below the gullet of the teeth. Then slowly spin the blade to find the high point, allowing the pencil to follow the blade. Once the high point is found (the place were the pencil is pushed furthest away) hold the pencil in place and spin the blade until it gets furthest away and measure that distance. You may only be ablde to eyeball it, but that will give you some reference. Maximum acceptable total runout is .010, but you really want it closer to .006.

    Hope that helps



    • #3
      If you can see "WOBBLE" (run out), it's probably too much. Buy an inexpensive dial indicator (plenty accurate for setting up tools in my opinion). Mount it on the table and bring the plunger in contact with the blade (on a flat area where you don't have any voids in the circumferance) Set it to 0, then turn the blade by hand (you did unplug it ) and note the greatest variation. Try to find the low spot for zero and you can get the total runout. It's a matter of opinion as to what is acceptable. Carpentry is one thing, fine furniture needs a higher degree of accuracy.

      Now a quick and cheep way: Lay a ruler perpindicular to the blade and find the high spot and let it touch there. Then rotate the blade again by hand and look at the gap and use feeler guages to compute your runout.

      If your new saw has a completely "square" flange on the arbor to index the blade square, then runout would be in the blade. If the flange is out, talk to Ridgid.

      Now mount your dial guage on your miter guage and you can check how square you setup is by indexing off one edge of the blade (if runout above is corrected) , then slide to the other edge. Adjust the plane of you balde to get equal measurements and you are square.

      Time spent getting it right here will pay off many times over.


      • #4
        Okay, I just bought a dial indicator from lee valley, and set it up on my blade. I went as close to the perimeter of the blade as I could without getting any interference from the teeth. The total runout was 0.006". So, I think I'm ok then. Thanks for the tips!!


        • #5
          If it were me, I would return the blade to where ever I purchased it. You can have the best table saw in the world but if you have a bad blade, it really isn't worth anything. If you can see a wobble, I agree with Walnut45, it is too much. Don't skimp on your blade purchase, and check each one before you take it out of the store to make sure it is flat. I usually pay $100.00 or more for a blade and I am just a hobbist.


          • #6
            Better yet listen to your blade when the saw is running. Several years ago I installed a new blade of a well known mfg, of saw blades, drill bits, etc. When I turned the saw on there was a wonderful whine I later learned coming from the blade, to make a long story short, I was hit hard in the chest when a board I was cross cutting was hucked back at me, and of coarse I didn't learn from that lesson. (In my defense I hadn't put it together yet that the whine and the blade not being true went together), I changed blades for what ever reason and the blade with the whine ended up on my mitre saw. It cost me $75.00 to get my mitre saw fixed and lucky for me other than a sore chest from the first experience I have all my body parts still intact.
            In the words stolen from an old TV show:
            "Be Careful Out There"
            It\'s not the quantity or quality of your tools that matters....<br />It\'s all in the firewood that\'s left over.....


            • #7
              any wobble is bad wobble. bring the table back and get it fixed under warranty.


              • #8
                I will have to disagree with you on that, yes you want a blade that is as straight as possible, but even Forrest blades are only good to .002 runout, combine that with the runout of the arbor (.001 in the case of the RIDGID, as are most other brands of saw) and you could easily get 6 thousandths runout at the edge of the blade, on any saw.

                A trick you can if you are a stickler for such things is to rotate the blade in arbor. Bolt the blade up, check the runout, unbolt it and move it 90ยบ on the arbor and check the runout again. Do this until you completely rotate the blade around the arbor, and then place the blade where you are getting the least runout. Basically what you are doing is canceling out the runout on the arbor with the runout on the blade.