No announcement yet.

Mortising Kit for drill press

  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Mortising Kit for drill press

    Has anyone tried using the mortising kit AC6005 with the ridgid drill press?? If so, did you like the results??

  • #2
    I have used one and it work's good, but it can be a lot of work to set it up. You will need to make modes. I do not thing anyony did very mush testing before hand! I use a big lots drill press and it is not the problem! Make sure when you set it up that you end up in the very center of the board!! This will save you a lot of heart acks later. Make sure all boards are dry and the same thickness +- .0010 good luck it will look very good in the end!


    • #3
      Personally, I'd either consider a benchtop mortiser or a good set of forstner bits and chisels. I just gave away the mortising set that came with my Jet drill press. Not only was it a pain, but it wouldn't stay aligned.


      • #4
        Dave, how did you find someone to take it?

        got one to get rid of myself...


        • #5
          Dave---had a woodworking friend come for a visit. Think I caught him at a weak moment after he looked at my new built-in cabinet (linen closet). He looked at that and began to think I knew what I was talking about---little does he know He even want to pay me for it, but I didn't have the heart


          • #6
            Are the mortising attachments for a drill press really that bad. I am fairly new to woodworking. I have a drill press and was planning to buy a mortise attachment. Can someone please explain what the differences are between a dedicated mortiser and a drill press with a mortising attachment. Is it really worth the couple hundred bucks for the dedicated machine. Thanks!


            • #7
              Mike, Dave and I (honest, I ain't referring to myself twice) both have the same model drillpress. Maybe others are better.

              I found mounting and demounting the attachment to be a significant pain in the neck (among other things, the chuck had to be removed and reinstalled each time). Aligning the fence of the attachment was another pain.

              Look at the length of the handle on a mortiser, then on a drill press, there's a huge difference. Drill press doesn't need that much leverage, it doesn't normally ram a chisel through wood.

              Everyone's mileage varies though. What I find to be an intolerable pain, others may find a minor annoyance. Kind of like the "worth" part of your question, because I know there are many who think I'm insane for my mortise and tenon solution, a Leigh FMT for $800...



              • #8

                Can you give me a better idea about the Leigh FMT? How exactly does it work? I've seen photos but I'm not too sure how it functions. Also, do you think it's easy to set up and is it better than a dedicated mortiser?



                • #9
                  Michael, I'll start another topic about FMT, so as not to walk away with Steve's.



                  • #10
                    Whoops. Good idea. Sorry Steve.



                    • #11
                      I have a delta floor drill press and the standard delta mortising attachment. I use it frequently and have had very good luck.

                      The chuck doesn't have to be removed. You just put an aligning pin in the chuck, slide the cage on and tighten it down. Then you insert the chisel and bit, square up the chisel and get to it. It takes about 1 minute to setup and I've had no problems with slippage or the chisel coming out of square.

                      I don't bother using the fence that comes with it though. It works really well it's just easier to use my custom table and fence with a few feather boards.

                      My father has a ridgid DP and the delta attachment does not fit over the huge chuck.


                      • #12
                        I have, and regularly use the mortis attachment.
                        It will get me by until I can afford the Powermatic or General heavy duty mortiser.
                        I will say this, for a couple mortis's, it's a pain. I cut shims of scrap wood to align the bit and the fence.
                        But the worst thing about it is the stinkin aluminum handles and the iddy bitty teeth that meet the steel bolts. All 3 striped the first time I set it up. So off the hardware store and bought some hardened bolts that I can use a socket on.
                        I emailed emerson on the problem, but never got a reply if there was a fix or not.
                        Any drill press mortiser isn't easy to set up or use, but does get you by. If your heart isn't into spending almost a grand for a heavy duty floor model one, do some researce into the table top models. They run around $250. Pick the one you like the features it has for what you know you'll be making.
                        Good Luck!
                        John E. Adams<br /><a href=\"\" target=\"_blank\"></a>


                        • #13
                          I have a Delta drill press with Delta mortise attachment. It comes with three collars for various model drill presses, but does not fit the Ridgid drill press. Ridgid's mortise attachment looks identical, comes with four collars, and also fits the Delta drill presses. So it appears that they just added a suitable collar for the Ridgid drill press.

                          In the past few days I have cut about 48 mortises for a dresser that I am building. Although I have never used a dedicated mortise machine for comparison, the mortise attachment made it easy and the results were good - far better than my skill at manually squaring a hole started with a drill or router.

                          It takes about 15 minutes to set up the drill press with the mortise attachment, but you can change the setup for different size/position in a minute or less. If you use the case that comes with the set, you must disassemble the unit completely to put it in the case properly, so the setup might be 30-60 minutes (as it was the first time I used it). To save time, I only partially disassemble the unit for storage.

                          Be sure to check the chisel for square each time you make ANY adjustment - movement is not constrained to be aligned with the chisel, and a chisel that is even slightly out of alignment will make a mess of the mortise. But aligning the chisel only takes a few seconds (losen one screw and hold a square along the fence and chisel).

                          The leverage that some people mention is an issue. You are providing the muscle to cut the square hole, while the drill press is cleaning the scrap out of the centre of that hole. Therefore you pull down hard on the drill press - far harder than when drilling. The dedicated mortise machines appear to have better leverage for this, but I haven't found the drill press to be a problem working with birch, walnut, and poplar. (Ironically soft woods don't work as well since the drill tends to plug up with shavings.)

                          The bottom of the mortise isn't too flat. A round drill cleaning out a square hole leaves little mounds in the bottom corners, especially with hard woods. So I typically cut 1/8 inch deeper than required (measuring from when the chisel first touches the wood), and then do some minor cleanout with a hand chisel. Since the chisel/drill is the same as a dedicated mortise machine, I expect the results would be the same.

                          Bottom line, I bought a drill press, mortise attachment, and four bits for less than the cost of a dedicated mortise machine - in effect I got a free drill press in the process. Unfortunately I wasn't around when Dave wanted to give his away.


                          • #14
                            Thanks all for the input. I think I am more torn over this than before. Not being able to try one out hampers my enthusism to buy one (and lack of a drill press too). Hopefully, the 'Pot will accept on of my gracious offers for a DP1500.



                            • #15
                              Steve, I'm in the same boat as you, trying to decide the best rout to go.
                              So after much consideration and reading many posts on the matter, there appears to be 5 options:
                              1) Dedicated mortising machine
                              2) Drill Press with mortising attachment
                              3) Router the mortise, square the edges
                              4) Router the mortise, round over the tenon edges
                              5) Drill many holes, square up with chisel.

                              From what everyone has said thus far, I can condlude the following:
                              If you make furniture for a living or for partial income, you'll want option 1.
                              If you plan on making projects like a mission spindle bed, you'll want options 1 or 2.
                              If you make the occasional dozen mortises you're fine with option 3 or 4.
                              If you rarely make a mortise, stick with option 3, 4 or even 5. I would consider option 5 the last option, since it is more difficult (but ceartainly not impossible) to get paralell edges.

                              I'm finding that as with mortise and tennons, there are many joints for which there are 101 ways you can "skin them". For example, the dado can be done by router or tablesaw. You can joint an edge by jointer or a router with a trim bit.

                              I find that I am motivated to acquire ALL possible tools to be able to shape my wood in EVERY possible way, and I imagine that some day when I stand in my shop ready to make any particular joint, I will cleverly smile and tap my fingers together as I carefully decide with which instrument I will set out to the task. But the more I look over the budget, and the more I dream about tropical vacations, I realize that what it really boils down to is time = money.
                              The better (and more expensive) tools are time savers. A careful woodworker can use what they have and maintain quality. If time is not a factor for you, and you don't get annoyed easily, get the basics and take more vacations.