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I guess it depends on how wide a strip your after. Several years ago a friend needed several miles (ok maybe a few hundred feet) of pine ripped in 3/16" strips. We learned very quickly that it had to be CLEAR #1 or better grade wood, any knots and thats all she wrote. Good luck finding that one today. We set the fence up for 3/16" and as I fed my friend received and as I got too close to the blade he took over and carefully pulled it on through. Common sense comes into play at the point of when do you quit pushing the board through, as I recall we were able to start with 1x6's and quit when we were down to around 1 1/2" to maybe an 1" left. Hope this info helps, oh yeah I'd be leary of doing anything less than 3/16", the way we did it.
It\'s not the quantity or quality of your tools that matters....<br />It\'s all in the firewood that\'s left over.....
Hope the fella asking this one still has all his fingers intact. A better method is to attach a stop block on the table in front of the blade and on the side away from the rip fence. This can be done by attaching an extension fence onto the miter gauge, sliding the miter gauge fence to the end of the blade and attaching a stop block the width of the cut from that edge of the blade. Then slide the miter gauge back so that the stop block is well in front of the blade and lock it down. Using the fence, push your stock over to where it contacts the stop block, lock down your fence, and make your cut. Set up for the next rip by unlocking the fence, pushing your stock to the stop block, lock the fence down and make the next cut. Repeat until you have ripped sufficient stock or the stock is too thin to safely run between the fence and the blade.
Take a look at the method (and homemade jig) recommended by DeChristofor in his "Table Saw Book" (TAB, 1988) at page 122 and Figs. 6-23 through 6-25. This is not only the easiest and safest way to do what you want to do, but it is likely to have the highest production rate, too.