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Pocket Hole Plugs

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  • Pocket Hole Plugs

    I wonder what you folks do?

    I see three methods...

    1. purchase ready made pocket hole plugs
    2. Purchase a special designed pocket hole plug cutter About $40.00 [woodworker's supply]
    3. There is also a method using 3/8" dowels

    I have used #1 with success although many of the premade plugs seem too tight

    I have looked at #2 and you have to build a 15 degree jig for the drill press.
    Not a real challenge ...

    Looking at #3, I am intrigued as the cost of a 3 foot dowel rod is minimal

    I estimate the cost for a pine pocket hole plug when purchased in quantity [200 ea]
    you pay about 14 cents each

    Cactus Man

  • #2
    Re: Pocket Hole Plugs

    I normally just use the dowel and take a block plain to take off the bulk, and then sand with a sander,

    seems like on one project I made a block and used the pocket jig, and made a pocket in it and then used that for a jig and cut them on the band saw, using a fence to guide the block, Had to push the plug out with a nail the way I remember it, after cutting the angle off the dowel and then would cut the next off the dowel square and then do it again, most likely if you had a lot to do one could figure out the over all length and then cut the angle off on a bunch of them (it been a long time but that is what is coming to mind,
    Last edited by BHD; 12-10-2011, 11:05 PM.
    Push sticks/blocks Save Fingers
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    • #3
      Re: Pocket Hole Plugs

      I have only used dowel rod up till now, but was not quite happy with the exposed end grain. I bought some face grain plugs but have not used them yet.

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      • #4
        Re: Pocket Hole Plugs

        I have used the store bought plugs, with marginal success. For any visible face of a project, I avoid using them altogether. I place them on the inside of cabinets for face frames mostly. I have used them for attaching small table tops as well.

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        • #5
          Re: Pocket Hole Plugs

          I don't have a pocket hole set-up, but I can give you a 4th method to use when using woods other than pine, oak or poplar (common dowel rod material). I make my own dowels by just pounding a straight-grained small billet of the desired wood through a hole drilled in a 1/4" thick plate. To start it I sharpen the end some with either a pocket knife or a carpenter-pencil sharpener. So far have had good success with pine, oak, and walnut. I have not tried any cross-linked woods like cherry or maple yet, so that may not work as well.

          By selecting a piece of wood with the grain running at the 15 degree angle, you could theoretically slice it off to give a face-grain look.

          Go
          Practicing at practical wood working

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