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is there a technique for this?

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  • is there a technique for this?

    i am limited in my shop by the lack of a thickness planer. Several months back i had a silver maple cut down and took a few sections of the trunk to a local shop to rough cut and kiln dry. 99% of it came out great. some nice grain pattern in many of the boards and i cant wait to put it to good use. I have a JP6020 and a TS3612. So i can joint one side of the board and use that as a reference to joint one face. is it possible to true up the other face parallel to the first and rip the other side square without a thickness planer or am i going to have to find someone who has one/rent some time on one, buy one to get it done right?


  • #2
    There is really no way to end up with two parallel faces without a thickness planer, unless you're willing to spend a lot of time with a hand plane and cabinet scraper and some calipers, but that will take some practice/time.

    Since the tree was slabbed out and may have differences in thickness, minor cupping, etc., you really need a thickness planer.

    If you don't have other uses for owning one at this time, see if you can borrow one or see if someone would let you come over to their shop---if you flatten one side with your jointer, it should only take a few passes to get the other side parallel and to a uniform thickness----Also check with your local high school or Woodcraft store (they advertise shop rental).


    • #3
      I have never tried this nor will I vouch for it's saftey but the 3650 manual describes how to resaw wide lumber and the fence support you need to build. 3650 manual
      Since you have a jointer you could flatten one face then use your table saw to cut it to the desired thickness. You can rip a board that is 6 3/4" wide or less. Since your jointer is only 6 1/8" this should not be a problem. If you have a 1" thick board that is 6" wide and you want to dimension it to 3/4" thick you would surface joint one face on the planer then set the saw for 13/16" from fence to blade. Place the jointed face against the fence and run the board through the blade. Flip the board end for end and run it through again (faced side still against the fence) you should now have a board that is 13/16" thick and flat. One or Two passes on the jointer to clean off the saw marks and you have a 3/4" thick board
      Good Luck...