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Cast Iron Scratches

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  • #16
    Originally posted by Frank_ca
    i just saw the postings here. i understand that he wants his ts looks good. i know that the saw will have scratches and i guess that is not his point. u do not understand people they say you shoul have them on you saw, so you remeber work you did. that just shows that they are not taken care of there tools and i do not wnat to know how there work look like. sorry but thats how i see it. my saw does have scratches but only little once and i can not tell what kind of work i did.
    you are right take care of your saw and tool and it is more fun to use them
    I agree, the better you take care of your equipment the longer it will last. The fine scratches may not effect how the equipment works but over time as those scratches get deeper and deeper it will definitely effect how the saw operates.


    • #17
      Removing old wax

      Hey Woodworker,
      Good question on how to get the old wax off. Couple of options -- mineral spirits works well. Paint thinner on a rag also works well (DOn't let these get on plastic surfaces however, just on metal surfaces. They may harm some plastics. Even 409 cleaner will take off a light coat of wax. If you've got some light rust you want to get off quickly, try some Barkeepers Friend. It is a very fine powdered abrasive that bartenders use to clean off their bar tops. Is available in most grocery stores and the like that have a good selection of cleaners and abrasives. It also works well on countertops at home. Test in inconspicuous area first. Hope that helps. Jim D.


      • #18
        Removing wax

        Almost forgot. NEVER EVER EVER use gasoline as a cleaner or solvent, or wax cutter. Fumes filter down quickly and even if you're using in an attached garage, fumes can filter down to basement level where there may be standing pilot lights. Remember gasoline fumes are the big hazard, not the liquid gasoline itself.


        • #19
          Have been monitoring this thread for a couple of days and finally had the time to do some "tests" on a couple of spots on my 3650 table/wings. Two of the spots were small and fairly dark stain. One was a light surface discoloration. I did not use an abrasive mat or sandpaper because of stated concerns about scratching. I did try some steel wool as the steel in the wool is softer than the cast iron.

          1. Despite a recommendation I made a month ago, I found that auto rubbing compound has little affect on the stains. My bad!

          2. 0000 steel wool and WD40 will clean up light surface rust

          3. Bar Keepers Friend cleanser applied with a damp rag cleaned up the light stains immediately, and even cleaned up one of the darker ones with just a rag and elbow grease . Using it with steel wool speeded up cleanup on the darker stains and left no marring on the surface (my saw still has the factory machined finish,. I have not polished it out as some have). I did not have to remove the wax I had on the saw as the cleanser took it right off. It helps to let it set a few seconds (5 - 15) to let the oxalic acid in it to start working before agitating it with the rag or wool. A note of caution, tho. The first place I cleaned, I wiped all the residue off with a damp rag. Everything was fine until the dampness dried, leaving a light cost of flash rust. After seeing that, I immediately applied wax while the surface as still damp from the final wipe. No problems using that method. (After I was done I rewaxed the whole surface and could not see any comparative difference in the areas I had cleaned).

          Please note that The Bar Keepers Friend is designed as a metal cleaner (pumice cleanser with oxalic acid used in many metal polishes as opposed to pumice with bleach like Comet).

          Summary: The Bar Keepers Friend worked best but leaves the surface vulnerable to flash rust as the rinse water dries. Applying a sealer coat of wax before the surface dries, or immediately fully drying with a dry rag will prevent the flash rust. As most metal polishes use oxalic acid, and most are just buffed off after they dry, rinsing probably is not necessary, but I don't like leaving an acid residue on a metal surface unless I'm going to paint it (a slightly acid surface helps adhesion for most coatings).

          Hope this helps.
          Practicing at practical wood working


          • #20
            Dont want those dings to scratch the wood as it runs across the table is a good readon to get them out.. recently had to knock an edge off where the Miter slot runs as it was leaving a scratch on the Cherry I was cutting.


            • #21
              After putting my new TS3650 together this week, I was ready to wax it, I had it covered with a tarp in my building, I thought I had left enought grease on it to hold off the rust, but after uncovering it, there was 3 nice hand prints in light rust, I read over the forum and I went out for supplys. I opted for : 3M™ Scuff Pads, WD40, and Bar Keepers Friend. Along with my ROS, I followed what was the norm for removing rust. BKF + wetted with WD40 + the ROS = A nice finish w/o rust. :-)
              Finished with Johnsons Paste Wax.



              • #22
                An old timer that taught me a lot always used a piece of grizzle. So you have a nice big steak, cut off the fat and save it for the table saw. After using the saw just give is a quick wipe with the fatty edge of the grizzle. It doesn't interfear with any finishing later on and does a good job of keeping rust off. He kept chunks there for months never a problem until he got a new dog, this one would jump up on the bench and find it. Then he had a reason to have another steak!.



                • #23
                  Preventing Rust

                  Ok, so i will chime in now with a method I use. I live in a very humid area. Wax alone will not stop the rust in my area. I use the same cleaning method as many others. Scotchbrite pads (equal to 00 steel wool) with WD40. Works great. I then apply a coat of Penatrol. You can get it at most any hardware or paint store. It is a penatrating oil and sealer used in the Marine Industry and by many metal Industries to protect aginst rust. Also can be used on wood for outdoor use. Actually it has a lot of uses. One quart will last a lifetime. It takes 24 hours to set. If you have a little build up. You can go back over it with that same Scotchbrite pad that still has a little WD40 in it and smoth it out. Then put a wax coat on it. This stuff protects my CI for a long time. BTW, you can get a fish eye remover additive for mineral spirts if you have that problem. Do a google search on Penatrol. You will be amased at the uses for this product.