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Table or Band Saw?

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  • Table or Band Saw?

    Need some expert advice here, guys and gals... I need to cut 30 pieces of 3-3/8 x 3-3/8 s4s oak each 38" long, and the ends need to be perfectly 90 deg. The wood comes in 8-foot long sections. Should I use the TS2424 or the BS1400? I got 40-tooth carbide on the TS and 3/8" blade on the BS. Which one is more likely to give a consistent squared end-cut? Any advice will be highly appreciated. Many thanks in advance! Dustmaker [img]smile.gif[/img] [img]smile.gif[/img]

    ...still only making dust...

  • #2
    Tablesaw, cleaner cut. If you really want great cuts, though, you probably should consider putting a crosscut blade on it.



    • #3

      I agree with Dave about Using the TS. At 8', you may also want to consider an extension to your miter face to give you a leverage advantage unless you already have a sliding miter box.

      Good Luck,
      Wood Dog


      • #4
        Many Thanks guys! [img]smile.gif[/img] [img]smile.gif[/img] [img]smile.gif[/img] Changing to a cross cut blade on the TS2424 (hope HD has a good selection). And yes, Wood Dog, I will add a temporary table and mitre extension, got no sliding stuff yet.... Probably also have to remove the blade guard and anti-kickback pawls as the wood might get snagged there. Kinda scary but I'll just have to be extra careful this time. Also switching over the motor to 220 volts for more power.

        hoping to make more than just dust this time...!


        • #5
          No particular need for a splitter in a crosscut, but if the pawls would "catch", you are doing it wrong. Push the stock all the way past the blade, don't push and then pull back. If you nick the blade coming back, at the least you have ruined your perfect cut.

          Home Depot used to sell an 80 tooth Freud in their "TK" series. If they still do, that's a nice blade for a reasonable price. Doesn't last as long as a full kerf, but doesn't cost as much either.

          For the "perfect" crosscut, feed slowly. Most people feed far too fast on crosscuts. The 80 tooth blade cannot carry a lot of sawdust in it's small gullets. Aim for just fast enough to prevent burning. With practice, you can take a perfect 64th inch section off the end of anything.



          • #6
            Certainly the TS over the BS, but neither is the right tool for this. The problem is that, regardless of how you support it, the resistence of the "tail" of the stock to sliding along means that you're going to grip the head and miter gauge so hard you run the risk of a hand slipping. If you do it this way, I'd put a good aux fence on the miter gauge and the clamp the stock to the fence, keeping my right hand only the gauge handle and my left hand off the table.

            This is definitely a job for the miter saw.


            • #7
              I agree w/ rgad besides its always an excuse for a new toy!@### tool


              • #8
                Thanks for all the ideas. This is what happened: Wife and I made all the cuts using a circular saw and the TS, with some wastage in exchange for accuracy and safety. First we rough-cut all the 30 pieces with a circular saw allowing for 3/4" extra length, and then precise cut to length on the TS using new crosscut blade. We lost some of the wood in the process but its okay as some of the stock were split on the ends and some sections were under-sized anyway. We tried cutting directly from the long stock at first but it was really difficult to slide the 8-foot stock at cross-cut on the TS (RGad was right - wish I had a miter saw...), and with the splitter removed, chances of kickback was high.

                The point in all this is that we accomplished the task correctly and safely given what tools are available, goes to show even simple tasks like this needs careful thought and planning. All suggestions on this post proved to be useful and we are very grateful indeed! Thanks again guys! (Heh heh BTW, now wife agrees I need a miter saw! )