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TS2412 adjustments

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  • TS2412 adjustments

    I purchased this saw to help me with a lot home inprovement projects and for this it is working fine. Now I need to fine tune this machine for furniture projects. The alingment of the blade to the miter gauge groove came set at .0035 from the factory at the time I felt this needed no adjustment. The rip fence did need adjustment and I adjusted that to dead nuts 0 from end to end but it does have a .002 bow in the center, on both the right and left sides. No problems there. The problems I do have is getting the blade square to the table. Using a solid machinist square and a .001 feeler guage I can get one side of the blade square to the table but if I check the other side it is off. I even removed the blade and use a piece of flat steel that I ground at work and I get the same results. I also noticed that if I rotate the blade a half turn it is no longer square to the table. When I rip a piece of wood to the right side of the blade the trailing end of the ripped piece rubs hard againts the back of the blade, if I rip to the left the trailing end doesn't touch the back of the blade. If I try resawing a thick piece of wood I get a very uneven line where the two cuts meet in the center. Also when I tried to use the 90 and 45 degree stops for the tilt mechanism I ran into problems. The hand wheel would turn very hard when it got in close to the stops. I removed the stops and noticed the ends had shaved pieces of steel on them. Should I replce these stops with brass screws? Right now I have to set the blade to a gage evey time I adjust the angle. Where can I find the Micro-Adjustable trunnions and other accessories for this saw?

  • #2
    Have you checked your arbor?

    I had similar problems getting the accuracy that I desired for furniture work. I finally broke down and purchased an accurate dial indicator guage kit from Woodcraft ("A-Line-It Alignment System") manufactured by In-Line Industries (ph # 508-949-2968). While rather expensive at $150, this kit performs a variety of alignment functions on several different pieces of equipment including the table saw, drill press, jointer, etc. Woodcraft also sells a accessory kit to go with the "A-Line-It Alignment System" that includes the parts necessary to retrofit your table saw for micro-adjustments for square alignment.

    A precision guage will allow you to check your arbor flange run out. If your arbor is off, there is no point in retrofitting your saw for will need a replacement arbor.


    • #3
      Yeah, what warncorp said. Dial indicators are a great aid in setting up machines in your shop. You can buy a very inexpensive dial indicator and magnetic base from Grizzly for around $19. Precision measuring devices are now so cheap every woodworker should have one.

      However, that being said, I think the first thing I would try would be a different blade. I think it's more likely that the blade runout may be the culprit, rather than the arbor. Worst case would be both blade and arbor. Premium blades cost more because they are flatter. Might be worth a shot before replacing the arbor.


      • #4
        Ok now that vacation is over I took your advice and brought my machinist chest (full of indicators and all kinds of precision measuring tools) home from work. I rechecked the heel alingment of the blade, it's still at .0035 the adjustments I made on the rip fence are still at dead nuts 0. The run out of the blade is .008, run out of the arbor is .0015, I tried checking flatness of the table by mounting a indicator on the rip fence and sliding it across the table, run out was .015 from left to right but that is most likely how far of my instalation of the front and rear guide bars is. then I decided to mount my indicator on a non magnetic base and slide it around the surface of the table. A lot of hills and valleys, most low spots where around .005 to .007. I didn't think to much of it when i first bought the saw but the finish on the table was done on blancherd grinder, rotary ground, in the machine trade this is usually considered a rough ground surface, a mattason grinder usually does the finish work. I haven't been to the local home depot in a while so not sure if all ridgid saw are rotary or finished ground? any how thanks guys my problem seems to be the operator and not the machine [img]smile.gif[/img]


        • #5
          <BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Tathlum:
          I rechecked the heel alingment of the blade, it's still at .0035
          rip fence are still at dead nuts 0.
          The run out of the blade is .008,
          run out of the arbor is .0015,
          the table, run out was .015 from left to right

          It sounds like everything is within spec, though the arbor runout is just a tiny bit high. It sounds like you've got the heel set real well.