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Table Saw Tip

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  • Table Saw Tip

    I thought I'd share a recent experience that may be able to help someone else avoid a mistake. After ripping a bunch of wood with the blade beveled I returned the blade to 90 deg. and ripped several more pieces. Some of the wood was twisted and rough, so I didn't notice right away, but when I started cutting the wood to the final sizes I discovered that the corners weren't cut square. I checked the blade with a square and found it was quite noticeable off. Apparently all my beveling had allowed sawdust to build up on the 90 deg stop surface, and when I returned to 90 deg the build-up set the blade off. It’s an easy fix, but can be a costly and frustrating problem, especially if it builds up slowly. I hope someone else can learn from my mistake.

  • #2
    I also learned that lesson recently, I use my shop to cut acrylic for creating aquarium equipment in addition to my normal woodworking. Arcylic needs to be very percise, if your out more that a third of a degreeit can ruin the work. When you cut acrylic it can melt the shaving into a molten type state and they were landing on the threaded bar under the blade (within the frame). It is definately fustrating. Thanks for the post- Glade I am not alone in the universe.
    Measure once...Cut...then go buy a new longer board.


    • #3
      JPM, All,
      I too have learned that lesson. Now, I always check my angles after changes have been made with a protractor and a sliding bevel or my 22.5/45/90 degree angle standards. I also stopped uses those 45 and 90 degree stops.



      • #4
        one thing an old carpenter friend of mine taught me is to always check your blade for accuracy after you change settings. something i have always tried to do and when i do i never have a problem. on occasion i get ahead of myself, forget to or just get in a hurry, and those are the times i usually end up killing trees