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Problem with pulley slipping out of place

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  • Problem with pulley slipping out of place

    I have the Rigid 4512 10" table saw and it has been working great until recently. The pulley on the motor shaft is moving to the end of the shaft. I thought at first the set screw was just loose so I checked it. It did not appear to be loose, but I had to loosen it anyway to slide the pulley back into place. I re-tightened the set screw and it was fine for another 30 minutes of use and it happened again. At the moment it seems that there is something else wrong because the set screw is not loose...The key is slipping. I'm not sure what else to try at this point. Any suggestions?

  • #2
    Same problem! Manifested itself when saw failed to start because belt had shifted toward blade far enough to bind on pulley. Clearly motor pulley is on the end of the shaft and set screw has backed out. The manual calls for a 6mm allen wrench to loosen the belt adjustment bolt. Mine has a 12mm hex bolt instead and loosening it does not free the motor in the slot. What's the trick? Is there another fastener that must be loosened and,if so, how does one get to it without disassembling the saw from the base? Damn glad I had just finished the last of 56 dadoes!!


    • #3
      Ridgid R4512 belt and pulley issues:

      Make sure your pulleys are in very good alignment. I use a 6" long piece of 1/4" x 1/4" key stock. Hold it along the face of the arbor pulley and make sure it aligns with the motor side face of the motor pulley. Make sure the key hasn't slipped out of the keyway. Feel the set screw face of the pulley hub to see if it's sticking out. Push it back in if needed. Use a T-handled 2.5 mm allen wrench to tighten the motor pulley set screw as tight as you can, short of permanently twisting the wrenchRidgid R4512 Pulley Alignment. A dado applies a great deal of repetitive impact force to a drive. Make sure you feed slowly. It has caused me trouble as well. You might try a new set screw.

      To replace the belt, use a 13 mm combination wrench (or something similar) to loosen/tighten the belt tension adjustment bolt. Once it is loose, use the arbor elevation wheel to move the motor pulley toward the arbor pulley (try to raise the blade) and loosen the belt. This is much easier than trying to move things from inside the saw cabinet. Pull the old belt off the pulleys. Use a small steel brush to clean the pulley grooves. The motor pulley may have moved. Check the alignment as previously mentioned. Another trick I use is to place the back end of a drill bit to between the motor pulley and the face of the motor as I use a pry bar to push the pulley toward the motor. If the gap between the motor and pulley is too large, use a smaller bit. After you lock the set screw in place, use the key stock to verify that the pulleys are in alignment. How good does the alignment have to be? Because the belt is very short, the alignment must be very good. I suggest that it needs to be within 1/64" of perfect.

      Visually inspect the pulleys. Hopefully, they are ok and you can re-install a new belt. At the very least, you will want to remember how they looked in case you have problems down the road.

      Install the new belt on the pulleys. Make sure that all 6 belt strands drop into all 6 grooves of both pulleys. If you have an assistant available, have them lower the blade elevation wheel to spread the pulleys apart. When the arbor starts to drop with the motor, the belt tension is as high as it will get without additional leverage. Stop turning the adjustment wheel. Use a large flat blade screw driver to pry the arbor frame away from the motor frame. Do not pry on the pulley grooves. Excessive tension will burn up motor bearings. Insufficient tension will result in belt squeal under high load. Good luck figuring that out. While using the screw driver to apply tension, use the 13 mm wrench to lock down the belt tension adjustment bolt.

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