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Zero Clearance Dado Inserts

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  • #16
    I had some old cedar cutoffs and with a little light sanding it was the right thickness for a zero tolerance dado insert, and it actually had a knothole in it the size of my index finger. I use that to place and remove it.

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    • #17
      I had some scrap 1/4" plexeglass that was a little thiner than 1/4" that happened to be the right thickness for the recess holding the insert. The plexeglass works fine. As far as holding down the back end of the insert, I drilled and tapped an additional hole just like the one on the front, drilled the insert and use 2 screws to hold it in place. Using 2 counter sunk screws puts the insert in the same place every time.

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      • #18
        After using the Ridgid plastic one for a while,I must say that it as a ton of flex in it. The insert is not flat, so even if you level the corners, the middle sags. I've noticed that on some cuts, the blade makes the wood start to almost bounce on teh insert. I've picked upa peice of laminate flooring to make more, but based on teh measuring, cutting and sanding, I think my time is better spent buying an insert and using my time to work on projects.

        I plan on getting the metal insert from Woodcraft that has replaceable wood strips. the cost is $100 for the insert, but the strips only run $10 or so for a pack. (they are very easily made as well.) While $100 may be a lot for an insert, it sure saves time, and the aluminum is sure stronger and more level than plastic or plywood

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        • #19
          Mike3206,

          I've emailed the company that makes those inserts on a number of occasions inquiring if they make one to fit the 3612. They have never answered me. Does Woodcraft say one will fit the 3612 and if they do, which one? Thanks. [img]smile.gif[/img]

          Dave
          ================================================== ====
          All of us could take a lesson from the weather. It pays no attention to criticism.

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          • #20
            It is clear that with some models of stack and safety dado blade sets that there can be clearance and alignment issues when used in conjunction with the RIDGID® Model TS3650 table saw. We apologize for any confusion or performance issues that they may have created for those of you who have experienced a problem of this nature. This problem does not occur with all dado blade sets so as a result RIDGID would like to provide you with this means of assistance should you have a concern with your TS3650 arbor and the use of specialty blades like dado sets.

            PLEASE CALL RIDGID TECHNICAL SERVICE AT 1-(866)-427-8177.

            Our experienced technical support staff will quickly be able to diagnose any potential issues you may have with your TS3650 arbor. If you do have a problem, we will stand behind you and do what we can to supply you with a remedy so that you have the optimum performance, productivity, and enjoyment out of your RIDGID TS3650.

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            • #21
              exactly which brand/type of dado blades will over come the faulty engineering of the rigid saw?
              Originally posted by BrandMan:
              It is clear that with some models of stack and safety dado blade sets that there can be clearance and alignment issues when used in conjunction with the RIDGID® Model TS3650 table saw. We apologize for any confusion or performance issues that they may have created for those of you who have experienced a problem of this nature. This problem does not occur with all dado blade sets so as a result RIDGID would like to provide you with this means of assistance should you have a concern with your TS3650 arbor and the use of specialty blades like dado sets.

              PLEASE CALL RIDGID TECHNICAL SERVICE AT 1-(866)-427-8177.

              Our experienced technical support staff will quickly be able to diagnose any potential issues you may have with your TS3650 arbor. If you do have a problem, we will stand behind you and do what we can to supply you with a remedy so that you have the optimum performance, productivity, and enjoyment out of your RIDGID TS3650.

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              • #22
                Dave,

                Is it safe to assume that you know the old trick of using double-stick (carpet) tape and a laminate or other flush cutting bit with your router to make your ZCI blanks? If not, it works like a charm.
                Nolo illigitamati carborundum

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                • #23
                  Yup, it's safe to assume that. [img]smile.gif[/img]
                  ================================================== ====
                  All of us could take a lesson from the weather. It pays no attention to criticism.

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                  • #24
                    Dave I just purchased a couple from Leecraft. They are Phenolic with a melamine surface. They have a pin in the back to secure it and four adjusting set screws to level. The fit nice and tight but in case they do have screws to take up space frnt to rear and side to side. Have only used the one a couple times but for $21 they were hard to beat! I believe the part number is RG-1

                    Scott

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                    • #25
                      Thanks Scott for the info. What is Leecraft, thats a new one on me? Do you mean Lee Valley?

                      BTW, anyone besides me realize that I started this thread over 2 years ago? [img]tongue.gif[/img] I can't figure out why Brandman brought this back to life to talk about the 3650 arbor but he's the moderator.
                      ================================================== ====
                      All of us could take a lesson from the weather. It pays no attention to criticism.

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                      • #26
                        I found them in the tool crib at Amazon.com. also did a search in google and woodcraft has them just not the one listed for the rigid saws. They are nice because the blade cutout is started on the back side and the surface is nice and slick. easy to get level in the saw.
                        RG-1 insert

                        Scott

                        [ 04-26-2005, 04:21 PM: Message edited by: Scott_milw ]

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                        • #27
                          I've got a Rigid 3650. Anyone else experience this? I cannot lower the blade far enought to lay my newly constructed plywood insert down in the table. Should I put an 8" blade on for the inital cut?

                          Ideas? Thanks...Skip

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                          • #28
                            I used a 7¼" circular saw blade to start mine. Be sure that whatever you use that the keft size is as close to the kerf size of the 10" blade you plan to use.
                            ================================================== ====
                            All of us could take a lesson from the weather. It pays no attention to criticism.

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                            • #29
                              Thanks Badger. Already learned that (the kerf size) the hard way this afternoon. Was thinking about just routing a start line on the backside to allow the insert to at least sit flat intially. I'd only need to remove about 1/8" of stock to allow it to be flat...Anyway, glad I had something right!

                              Thanks...Skip

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                              • #30
                                Leecraft is a product sold by Woodcraft stores, amongst other places (Amazon). They don't list a Ridgid model insert on the Woodcraft website, but I do believe the Craftsman insert is the same size (14" x 3 3/4") and should work just fine.

                                Looking through a few other woodworking websites (Lee Valley and JustFreud.com), which offer inserts that fit both Craftsman (newer) and Ridgid saws seems to confirm this.

                                With that in mind, Rockler sells laminated phenolic resin inserts for the Craftsman models of that size for just $16.99 (before my 10% discount for being in the local woodworking guild), and they are 1/2" thick and come with leveling screws. Some of the others I've looked into are a meer 3/16 of an inch thick, which might offer too much flex for my taste.

                                I'm actually stopping by a Rockler store today, after I visit my pusher... er, local one-man lumber supplier, to pick up my newly-planed recycled oak. (Mmmmm... recycled oak.) It is seriously hazardous to my checkbook (well, debit card, these days) to have the two of them so close together...

                                (Get on with it!)

                                Anyway, I was planning on trying one of them to see how well they work. I'll post my results with the Rockler ZCI, in case anyone is interested.

                                I've made my own before, not without some challenges that I have neither the time nor inclination to go into, but the convenience of a pre-made insert for under $20 is worth it to me.

                                I think that is a common problem, Skip, and not just with the Ridgid table saws. I've found the best way to start the kerf is by using one of my 8" dado blades. That should allow you to start the saw and raise the blade into the insert and give you a pretty close match to the kerf thickness on most 10" blades.

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