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Zero Clearance Dado Inserts

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  • Zero Clearance Dado Inserts

    I want to make some zero clearance dado inserts for my TS3612. Any suggestions on materials and ways to secure the inserts would be appreciated.
    I decided to change calling the bathroom the "John" and renamed it the "Jim". I feel so much better saying I went to the Jim this morning.

  • #2

    [ 10-30-2003, 04:55 PM: Message edited by: K.M. Delano ]
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    • #3
      I have some old 1/4 inch (not 7/32 inch) plywood, which I cut to the shape of the insert on the bandsaw, with fine adjustment on a disc sander. Countersink for the front mounting screw (ugly on plywood, but it works well enough). Then cut from the edge to the screw hole (easier than copying the keyhole on the standard insert). Fine tune thickness (level with the saw table) with masking tape or sandpaper.

      For the regular zero clearance insert, I glued a block of scrap to the wide part of the bottom of the insert to add stability, but haven't bothered on my dado insert.


      • #4
        dave this may be an unpardonable sin here but check the ryobi web site a guy there makes them for the bt3k out of lexan realy nice. you could possibly make something like them for the ridgid too bill


        • #5
          Charlie P,
          Are you securing the back of the insert in any way? If you're not, are you just clamping a board over the insert when you make the initial cut?

          Folks here are a very forgiving lot, of course we will forgive your mentioning that "other" forum. Actually, I stop by there myself every now and again and saw that thread.
          I decided to change calling the bathroom the "John" and renamed it the "Jim". I feel so much better saying I went to the Jim this morning.


          • #6
            As suggested by Ridgid, I put the rip fence over the edge of the insert for the initial cut.

            The two zero clearance boards I use daily (regular and dado cuts) are very stable in routine use, even without a clip on the back. The bigger problem is to get them out to change them - often having to reach in the back of the saw and push up (maybe I just made them too tight). The only time I use the standard insert is when I am tilting the blade (rare).


            • #7
              Hello All,

              I saw the TS3612 at HD and it came with a zero clearance insert. Dave are you wanting to make additional inserts instead of buying more of the zero clearance ones from ridgid? As I am sure you are aware the part# is AC1035 and about 12 bucks.



              • #8

                I'm just cheap! Can't see paying $12 for a $.25 piece of molded plastic when I can use scrap pieces for free.

                I decided to change calling the bathroom the "John" and renamed it the "Jim". I feel so much better saying I went to the Jim this morning.


                • #9
                  When I made my dado insert I used a scrap peice of hardwood I had lying around. Cut it out on the bandsaw, sanded it on my disc sander, routed a rabbit all round so it would sit in the groove flush. I planed the peice first though so it was the correct thickness. To secure it, I just drilled a counter sunk hole where the screw hole is. At the back, I put screwed a small peice of wood that overhangs the rabbit to stop it from lifting up. When I went to my local HD they told me $49.99 (Canadian) for the ridgid zero clearance insert. No way was I paying that for something I could make. Took my about 30 minutes to make.


                  • #10
                    I've read in a woodworking mag. somewhere that a leftover piece of laminate flooring works good for this, anyone tried it?



                    • #11
                      I recently put in a laminate floating floor in my kitchen. I had plenty of scrap left over and thought about ZCI's for it. However, the thickness of the flooring I had was a little thinner than plywood, which I have plenty of scrap. So I would have to add plenty of tape to the back. Another thing that I was concerned about was that the laminate on top chips out easily, producing a eneven edge on top. If the TS blade didn't cause chipout, just handeling it quickly did. It probally would do fine for ZCI's but all things considered, I thought that plywood would be better worth my time and since I had both... I never did think of anything worthwhile to do with the laminate flooring [img]smile.gif[/img]


                      • #12
                        Maybe I'm missing something here about the ZCI. For those of you who make your own, your citing that the Ridgid version "flexes" or isn't(forgive me) ridgid enough? [img]tongue.gif[/img] I'm just curious if this is causing the wood to bind on the tabletop as it is passing the blade and heading for the splitter?

                        Secondly, for those using Ridgid's AC1035 (I think), are you using this for dadoes or using there insert for either 6 or 8 in. dado blades? Is there any difference?

                        As always, thank you all for a little piece of your brain.
                        Patrick<br /><br />


                        • #13
                          I was surprised when I bought my ZCI from ridgid that they do not recommend it for Dados. I had been planning on using it that way, but I used the Dado insert instead and things worked well.
                          \"Is it Friday yet?\"


                          • #14
                            Looks like this post is rather old, but I made some last week out of MDF. I used 1/4" mirror clips to attach the inserts in the rear.


                            • #15
                              Green Wood,

                              Great idea using the mirror clips. I'm in the process of making a batch right now, using hardboard, and will shamelessly steal this idea.

                              I decided to change calling the bathroom the "John" and renamed it the "Jim". I feel so much better saying I went to the Jim this morning.