No announcement yet.

One last Sharpening stone question

  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • One last Sharpening stone question

    Well My array of natural arkansas stones, my veritas jig and my chisels have become the best of friends. Amazing what these things can do!

    My problem is the following...

    I need to get my hands on a GOOD manmade coarse grit stone for those signifigant bevel changes/blades that are nicked up real bad.

    I bought an aluminum oxide stone and it has made it's way to the trash after one use. It was not the most expensive stone, but it worked for one chisel and it was shot. Now i guess i should have soaked it in oil first.

    Anyway I use Smiths non petroleum compound on my arkansas stones and it is incredible.

    Now I have my eye on this stone...,43071&ap=1

    This will do what i need it to do and i don't mind spending the money, but my question is, can this be treated like an oil stone? the on line directions say you need to soak it in water and use water as a lubricant. i prefer the smiths, that way i can lay them all out and just go down the line. But I am afraid of destroying this stone.

    If this will not work for my needs, if it must be soaked in water, etc etc, can someone recommend a GOOD manmade oil stone, coarse for this purpose?

    Thanks all


  • #2
    I would seriously look into THIS
    I have used this for over a year now. Doesn't get dull, stays flat, never needs dressed, and needs no special care or soaking.

    I have the course/x-course for setting angles and inital lapping. On the other hand, I use THESE ($149 set) for the rest of the sharpening procedure. It's a personal thing, I don't like oil stones.

    Hope this helps old friend!

    John E. Adams<br /><a href=\"\" target=\"_blank\"></a>


    • #3
      I have a set of diamond stones similar to what Woody's link described and have extremely good luck with them.

      While I may not hand sharpen as often as others, they have always worked fine for me.



      • #4
        Ed, save your money on the 220 water stone. I have one and find that it is quite soft and needs regular flattening care. You will hate it after using oil stones than need little flattening maintence. I have a 325X/1200X DMT diamond plate and still find the I use 80 grit norton 3X paper on glass to do all my reshaping and leave the diamonds for carbide and stone flattening. I like the paper because it is very fast, lasts a long time, does not load and it is like having a huge 12" bench stone to work on.


        • #5
          Yeah WB

          that probably makes the most sense. Norton 80X on the glass for reshaping and such!


          • #6
            My only concern withthe 60X or 80X grit was what it is going to do to the brass wheel on my sharpening jig??


            • #7
              I have used my Lee Valley jig for almost a year and the brass shows no signs of wear. It just rolls over the paper same as a stone


              • #8
                The Norton 220 grit stone wares vary fast. That's the reason I invested in the DMT Diamond stone. I also use the Lee Valley jig and angle setting tool. If you read the care instrucions and follow them, it will last for years. I've used mine for over a year now also. I have 20 some chiesels plus plane irons. All have at least 2 complete dressings with touch-ups in between.
                Working on the wet stones is probably the hardest on them. The grit gets between the wheel and axle and will ware. Just flush it often, and oil after each use per instructions.

                On second note, the courser the grit you use to start with, the longer it will take to get the mirror shine. You have to ware metal down to remove the heavy gouges in the metal. Thus, with each angle set, you loose more metal than neccessary. I found it slower to start with 220, but much faster to achieve the mirroe shine, and the perfect edge. And you will be amazed at how fast the 220 diamond takes metal off!


                [ 03-05-2005, 09:42 PM: Message edited by: UO_Woody ]
                John E. Adams<br /><a href=\"\" target=\"_blank\"></a>


                • #9
                  I am impressed at how quickly the tools begin to shine when running across the soft arkansas. Get a mirror shine pretty quick, even in a drastic angle change.

                  I picked up some 50X 3M (sears did not have norton) today. Got it temp glued to the glass and will be hitting it tomorrow. I got most of the new angle set before that stone died! was not happy but did not spend a lot on them either.

                  Once the angle is set and even on both sides, the Soft arkansas does what needs to be done quickly. then over to the surgical/hard and black for a final honing. I did order a transluscent too but it is a pretty stone. I do not want to use it. especially since i was told that the transluscent is getting rare to find in the quarry they are working out of now. I guess this comes and goes but it takes years to get back to an abundence of the rare stone. So i may never use it. My grandson might get rich off of it!

                  No problem there

                  I love the lee valley jig and angle set. I have a somax no 22 jig as well. works great except the wheel that came with it sucks. the stones wear it and the wheel fragments clog the pours.
                  A friend turned me a brass wheel for it and that solved the problem.

                  I have some chisels that are in need of serious work. I was a dumb new woodworker and assumed my craftsman chisels were ready out of the box. I was wrong

                  I did get a good buy on the 6 piece bahco set and they are essentially ready to go. very sharp.

                  I also picked up a couple of three piece fuller sets real cheap on ebay. Knock around chisels, these chisels will have different angles and such for different applications once i am all said and done.

                  I do have the lee valley bench grinder jig and do have a grinder. an OLD one picked up at a garage sale. works, but needs a little work. once it is good to go, that will be my angle changer, probably wont get to it until spring though so in the meantime the glass and coarse aluminum oxide paper will have to do.

                  By the way, any oil need to be used on the paper?

                  thanks all