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BS1400 - Vibration & Cutting

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  • BS1400 - Vibration & Cutting

    Just purchased the highly rated bandsaw. Very disappointed with assembly of motor to the stand. It is impossible to align the pulleys without a helping hand, pry bar, etc. My OEM v-belt is as tight as it can be and I still have vibration. How much vibration is normal? Any remedies? Also, I am finding that the saw blade wants to drift while cutting causing the saw to stall. I bought a new Vermont Castings 1/2" blade. Is this condition normal (I'll never be able to resaw)? Any remedies? Change blade and/or purchase fence???

    HD service is very poor. Ridgid should find a new distributor like Lowes.

  • #2
    If you look in the manual for the bandsaw, one of the main causes of vibration is an overtight belt. Did you adjust the tension according to the manual?

    I use Viking (formerly timberwolf) blades, available at Lee Valley tools and the seem to work well.

    As for resawing, do a search on the net and you will see that it is common to have to account for a drift angle.

    Also, do a search in the Ridgid woodworking forums on BS1400 and you will find more information on what causes vibration.

    Comment


    • #3
      I would say that the alignment of the motor with the pulley was challenging, but certainly not impossible. It seemed about on par with other motor pulley alignments with other tools. Use a straight edge to align the pulleys. You can use a bar clamp and actually use it as a spreader to increase the tension, but I doubt that increase in tension will reduce the vibration that much. Much has been written on the underlying causes on this bandsaw and most others on the market. This saw properly set up seems to cut straight and true and with good power.

      All big box stores can be hit and miss. This is true for both HD and Lowes. The 3 HD around me seem to be great at customer service. Not the most knowledgable at times, but I'm not paying for knowledge at the "discount home centers", am I. [img]smile.gif[/img]

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      • #4
        I don't like giving you this answer, but tracing down the source of excessive vibration on a bandsaw can be difficult. However, in Mark Duginske's book entitled The Bandsaw Handbook he describes a systematic way of doing so. I think the first steps of that are to remove the blade and run the saw to see if the vibration has been removed. If not, proceed to removing the pulley to see if that helps. Then so on. However, if it doesn't vibrate after you've removed the blade and the pulley, at least you've narrowed it down.
        Good luck and I wish I could have been of more help. Believe me I know how frustrating it is to get a new machine, spend a bunch of time in setting it up as best you can, and then not be able to use it. I never know if it's something I did wrong or if there is something wrong with the machine.

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        • #5
          I have the Emerson BS1400 and also had vibrtion that I though was excessive. I now have a machine that will pass the nickle test from startup through shutdown.
          1. Throw away the junk blade. Usually bad welds
          2. Link belt, Link belt, Link belt. Best $21 I ever spent.
          3. Use a quick clamp reversed to push the motor away from the saw. Learned that little trick from UO_Woody and gives you the exact tension you want.
          4. This is something I tried and like. Got a extra stall mat for the horse trailer. We use them at work in the gym under the free weights. I cut a piece the size of the motor base and put holes in the appropriate places. I hate those little rubber gromets they provide. It makes it easier to bolt the motor down easily and does not slip at all.
          I came...<br /><br />I saw...<br /><br />I changed the plans.

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          • #6
            I agree with G.W....I did the same and got a wolf brand blade, what a difference! www.suffolkmachinery.com
            \"Aarrgh, sliver me timbers\"<br /><a href=\"http://www.picturetrail.com/daviddunlap\" target=\"_blank\">www.picturetrail.com/daviddunlap</a>

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            • #7
              I also bought the BS1400 based on the favorable review in Fine Woodworking's yearly tool review. I got a gray one for $245.00 at HD on close-out. So I could not pass it up. Even with the great price I was pretty disappointed initially. However, as I learned more about the nature of band-saws and spent time tuning it, I have grown to really like the saw. Lonnie Byrd's book was a big help. Several specific things helped my disappointment and the saw's performance:
              1) I learned that blade-drift is normal and can be corrected
              2) I got a Timber-wolf blade (Wow!)
              3) Cool-Blocks
              4) Balancing the wheels (recommend lead tape- you can get it at Auto-Zone, NAPA, Etc)
              5) Carter makes urethane bandsaw tires (again, Wow).
              6) It was also a tremendous help to tighten the drive-belt using a clamp. I ended up using a variation of the spreader-clamp technique. I cut a 3ft 2x6 and placed it between the motor and the body of the saw. Then I tightened a clamp against the outside top of the board and inside body of the saw. The saw body served as a fulcrum and the board put equal pressure along the side of the motor, pushing everything into alignment.
              7) Having blown my budget on blade, tires, and cool-blocks, the Link-belt will have to wait. But, while the saw in its stock form shook my entire house, it will pass the nickle test now even without the link-belt. While I was pretty disappointed in the beginning, I *really* like the saw a lot now. Good luck, I hope you find a solution that works for you.

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              • #8
                I agree but I used a notched automotive belt and found it to be better than the link belt and a lot quieter and less expensive at $7.
                To balance I drilled out the wheel(1/2" bit) as the factory did on the back side instead of adding weight.

                [ 05-12-2004, 09:22 AM: Message edited by: Andrew Benedetto ]

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                • #9
                  To align and tension the belt on my BS1400 I used a modified 2 x 4 (trimmed). I'm still pondering remounting the motor.

                  Thankfully no vibration problems so far, glad for the advice on using better blades, though.

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                  • #10
                    Andrew, mind divulging the length and maybe part number of the automotive style belt you used?
                    Cal

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                    • #11
                      G.W. mind listing the specs for the link belt you mentioned?

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                      • #12
                        You need a 4L/A - 1/2" POWERTWIST PLUS V-BELT

                        Go here

                        http://woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FULLPR...ARTNUM=878-442
                        I came...<br /><br />I saw...<br /><br />I changed the plans.

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Cal:
                          Andrew, mind divulging the length and maybe part number of the automotive style belt you used?
                          Cal
                          Take your original belt to any auto parts shop and they should be able to match it up in size easily.

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                          • #14
                            Link belt provides other solutions besides vibration. With a link belt you can pull you motor clear to the back of the saw frame, distributing more weight to the back, letting the bottom housing door open. Link belt you make to fit the strech you need and roll it on. Go with the link belt. $21.00 is a cheap price for a lot of fix that will last a lifetime.

                            [ 05-13-2004, 04:30 PM: Message edited by: G.W. ]
                            I came...<br /><br />I saw...<br /><br />I changed the plans.

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                            • #15
                              Thanks for pointing me toward the link belts, G.W!

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