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Jointing edges

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  • Jointing edges

    From the question you will see that I'm new to woodworking.

    If plan directions tell you to rip a piece to finished width, i.e. 1 1/2" from lets say a 5 1/2" wide board, do you rip it exactly 1 1/2" or do you leave some waste and then run it through a jointer or a router table, to final dimension? I have the 3612 TS with the delivered blade. Would this blade, or any blade, produce an edge that needs no additional work?

    Thanks, Bernie

  • #2
    it has been my practice to rip a little wider and joint it down. i use a CMT blade, which does a great job but if a table saw could do it, there wouldnt be jointers. there are saw blades out there such as the forrest ww2, or freud glue line rip, i have heard good things about them but i still think jointing the boards is the way to go


    • #3
      Did the plans call for joining two boards edge to edge, unlikely if the plans call for a 1 1/2" finished width, or is this edge an outside surface of whatever you're building? There is no need to joint a board unless it will be glued to the edge of another creating a wider board. Two boards joined perpendicular to each other usually dont require any jointing. My TS2412 with a thin kerf Freud rips well enough that a pass with a hand plan is generally all I need for jointing.


      • #4
        Do you have a jointer? Router table? What option and technique you use for a glueline will depend on the tools at hand. Space's reply hit the nail on the head about jointers.

        In my opinion a table saw can produce an edge that needs no further work. It takes some technique and sometimes a little trial and error, checking with a straight edge. When making a glue line on the table saw, the straightness of the glue line depends on the straightness of the part of the board up against the fence. This first side can be helped by making a long sled the rides in the miter slot. Clamp the board to the sled and rip, producing a straight edge on one side to ride against the fence on the next cut. Also consider that your stock is not flat (unless you have the tools). So make sure that you keep the same side of the board against the table so the 2 ripped sides will be 90 degrees respectively. I have a Forrest WWII blade. This blade produces an amazing edge but does burn wood easily. Burnt edges don't glue well.

        Router tables may be used as edge jointers a well. In my opinion the length of the router table fence can be a limitation of this technique.

        Before I had a table saw or even circular saw, I edge glued some boards with a jig saw and sanding block! True story though you can tell where the glue line is at points.


        • #5
          Thanks for the replies.

          I don't have specific plans this was just a general question. My thought was on cutting a board to width that was not going to be edge glued to another board. This piece would be used, for example, as part of a frame around a door - stiles and rails. It sounds like, from the responses, you might get the quality of edge you need from the table saw depending on the quality of the blade. If saw marks are present then a pass with a hand plane might be all thats needed.

          I was just curious because a lot of plans call for cutting to final dimensions, usually on the table saw and I wasn't sure you could get the quality edge needed from the saw alone.

          Again, thanks for the responses.



          • #6
            Do you have a planer by chance? A planer would be the best tool for dimensioning a peice to finished width, unless of course it is too wide for the planer. There is also a rule of thumb for edge planing boards. You should only attempt it if the width of the board is less than 4 times the thickness. At least I think that is the rule of thumb. If I'm making rails or stiles for a door, I will plane them all to the same width. I usually run the rails and stiles all at once after I've ripped them all to the rough width. It makes a nice edge and they will be exactly the same width. I have to agree that a table saw is good enough in most cases though unless you are edge glueing. I find it difficult to calibrate the jointer to take exactly a specific amount off a peice


            • #7
              Bernie, I have a field test for you to help determine which technique to use.

              Rip a board on your tablesaw. Crosscut it, so you have two pieces to glue together. Glue the edges up as you normally would, and allow to cure for the appropriate time.

              Inspect the glue line. Is the appearance acceptable? If not, you're done with the test, you need further finishing with a jointer or other tool. If yes, continue.

              Now, break the two boards apart. The typical way to do this is to clamp the assembly down onto a stout workbench so the glue line is off the edge, and hit the piece off the bench with a hammer. I recommend hearing protection, this is pretty loud.

              Once you've broken the glueup apart, examine where it broke. Was it right on the glue line? If not, that was a good joint that needed no further finishing. If it did, judge how much of the glue line separation involved breakage of the wood, instead of breakage of the glue. A good number for PVA is about 70% of the wood on the glue line should be damaged.

              Jeff, when edge planing, how do you keep the planed edges spot on perpendicular to the faces?



              • #8
                Dave, I've never really had a problem with the faces being 90 degrees to the edges after planing. I always start my process by jointing a face if necessary and then jointing one edge before ripping it to rough width. So I do have a reference edge to go from. I guess there is enough surface area on the edge to ensure it goes through the planer flat.