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TP1300 problems

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  • TP1300 problems

    I just purchased my first planer, a TP1300LS and am attempting to plane 1x6x5’ boards of maple, and I keep getting ridges at the end of the cut, approximately 2.25” from the trailing edge. It’s as if the board dips down after it passes the first auto-feed roller, causing the last 2.25” to be thinner for the last 2.25”. I’ve tried adjusting all I can, re-leveling the infeed and outfeed tables several times, as well as checking the blades and reseating them. I even set the outfeed table significantly higher to try and counter any dip in the work piece. None of these adjustments seem to make much of difference. Is this normal operation for this planer? Is it standard to need an extra 6” of stock on planed boards?

  • #2
    All the lunchbox planers do it to some degree (my delta does). To minimize the effect I hold the boards up slightly at the beginning and end of the run. Setting the infeed and outfeed extensions a bit higher to apply initial and final pressure away from the cutter should have helped. Starting the board at an angle also seems to help, just make sure the board is always longer than the planer is wide to avoid the possibility of it spinning sideways and jamming the cutter


    • #3
      Congratulations! You have just experienced your first "snipe"!

      It happens when the end of the board is only being held by one set of rollers. The best thing you can do is try to support the board as it comes out of the planer. Also make sure you set the carriage "lock" by the height adjustment crank.

      Some people say that there are ways to elminate snipe completely through various techniques, or some machines are better than others (I'm not disputing that, I've only used one planer). But as a matter of course, it generally is a good idea to do any planing (and jointing) first, before cutting to length.


      [ 12-16-2004, 11:18 AM: Message edited by: jhill3264 ]


      • #4
        Thanks for the responses, and for the warm welcome in the world of snipe. I tried lifting up on the board as it was exiting, but I just didn’t think that should be standard operating procedure or necessary for a planer that got such good reviews. I guess I’m learning the hard way, which is often the only way I suppose. Next time I’m planning first.

        Has anyone had much success in using a thickness planer as jointer, or in that a big no-no? I tried a small piece of 1x2x24” and it sure didn’t remove the bow of the board, just made it the same thickness. I just wondered if you could cheat the thickness planer by stacking a bunch of relatively strait boards on edge, just in an attempt to square them up.


        • #5
          Because the pressure of the roller on a planer, it will just make a piece thinner, but it won't take out the bow, twist, whatever.



          • #6
            Actually, the most recent FWW has an article about a jig that you can build to use your planner for jointing wide boards. I don't see any reason why that couldn't be used for smaller boards...


            • #7
              I once clamped together 6 3/4" thick 6" wide boards on their edge and ran them through my planer to get a nice edge on them before I biscuit jointed them together for a table top. It worked fine on wood that was already milled and cut to size, I just thought about getting the most perfect edge on it I could, not having a jointer.


              • #8

                This site was very helpful to me in setting up my Tp1300. Zero snipes after I did this!


                • #9
                  Originally posted by Bob32:

                  This site was very helpful to me in setting up my Tp1300. Zero snipes after I did this!
                  I looked this page over, and appears that hhis method could help eliminate snipe. But in his description of how to adjust the in/out feed table extensions he mentions adjusting the tables to be slightly higher than the main table, however, the illistration shows the in/out tables slightly pitched so that the edge closest to the main table is just a tad lower than the main table. Which is right or an I missing something here?

                  I looked through the rest of his sight too, we (he and I) must be on the same wavelength when it comes to accessories for shop tools. I have been thinking about building my own table saw overarm blade cover/dust collector after looking at a few of the ones available from various manufacturers, its like he was reading my mind when it comes to contruction of the arm and pivot assembly for the cover.

                  The dust collection mod for his band saw I don't really understand. Why place the dust collection port in the center of the lower wheel? I modified my BS adding a 2" dust port directly under the table in line with the blade. Along with the stock 2" port located at the bottom back of the saw, I now grab over 90% of the dust from my bandsaw. These two 2" ports feed merge into a 4" connection to my Dust Collector piping that runs through the shop. I think placing the dust port in the center of the wheel, which puts it about 10" above the bottom of the case would leave a lot of dust in the saw cabinet. I may be wrong and his setup works fine, anyone else modded their BS to improve dust collection?

                  You can view his nice web site here;

                  Click on "The Shop" in the left hand menu for some nice articles and photos.


                  • #10
                    I set up my infeed and outfeed on my planer according to ridgid's manual and I get no snipe unless I do not feed it right. Why fool with what works?


                    • #11
                      My planer is snipe free about 90% of the time...better even more. Snipe occurs sooner or later with most planers, although it should be rare if everything is adjusted properly. Maple is tough stuff....try taking really light passes, and maybe try a different wood and a smaller board just to see if it happens consistently. If so, something's not right.