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  • #16
    Some of the old post. http://www.ridgidforum.com/cgi-bin/u...=001659#000000
    Andy B.

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    • #17
      Originally posted by daveferg: They were so insistant on replacing the highly rated 3612 and then use a flawed arbor design.
      Dave,
      If it was a design problem wouldn't they all be the same? There are many, many 3650 owners on this forum and only two have complained of this problem. I think it's more a matter of a few bad arbors made it past QC. I went out to the shop and checked my arbor. It measures .623"-.624" from the flange to the end. No dips, valleys, grooves, low spots, etc. etc. etc.

      [ 12-02-2004, 09:38 PM: Message edited by: Lorax ]
      Lorax
      "Did you put the yellow key in the switch?" TOD 01/09/06

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      • #18
        Now I'm really confused, Lorax. I was almost hoping that RIDGID tech support had not heard of this situation with the arbor, and might have sent me a new one; instead, they were immediately familiar with the situation, and, like I said, they told me they had inherited this design from Emerson, and there were no plans to change it.

        It does not appear as such. It appears to be made this way on purpose, though I don't know for that reason. The area next to the shoulder by the flange is about 1/8" wide, and I'm assuming it's about .610" to .615" diameter. I'll put a caliper on it tomorrow.

        I did run some 1/2" wide by 3/8" deep dados in red oak tonight. My stacked set had two 1/8" thick blades and two 1/8" thick chippers. This is a 6" dado set by Shopsmith that I have had for years, but have not used much. The dados it cut were pretty true. I could see a slight up-down-up-down pattern at the bottom of the dado joint, but no pronounced divot. Had the first chipper been 1/16" instead of 1/8" thick, it might have slid more on the recess.

        All in all, the 3650 is a fine, strong, heavy, solid saw. It is well made, with good finish and tight tolerances. The runout on my arbor is .000" to .001". They have made improvements on previous models and, as I have said before, the positives greatly outweigh the negative(s).

        [ 12-03-2004, 12:21 AM: Message edited by: Sawdust Steve ]
        There are three kinds of people in this world - those who can count, and those who can't.

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        • #19
          Well, we have two people "reporting" the problem and they each got different answers. There's a surprise. I can imagine they had a QC problem---but the question is---how would they thread the shaft wrong but the nut still fits?

          Gents---the answer is----we now know what happened to all those old defective arbor shafts of Emersons.

          Anyway, bottom line---if they don't know how to solve the problem, obviously, that will take longer to get than a bandsaw riser.
          Dave

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          • #20
            According to Rigid, I've called many times, ALL arbors are the same. They are FULLY aware of the problem, it's INHERENT to the design (not a onesy twosy QC thing), and it will not be changed. "A replacement arbor would have the same problem" according to them. A novice woodworker may not notice the problem, it's minimal, but annoying. (hence minimal posts, and how many saw owners actually post here???? Maybe 1%? The nut threads fine. The LOW spot is AFTER the threads end and the shoulder begins. It's an area BETWEEN where the threads end and the shoulder begins. (even if it was on the threads, the nut would thread fine, it's LOW, not high!) The saw will be returned tomorrow. PS-when I called Home depot to verify they'd take it back, the Rigid rep. was there! He EVEN knew about the problem!!!

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            • #21
              Originally posted by strong330: According to Rigid, ALL arbors are the same. it's INHERENT to the design A novice woodworker may not notice the problem
              Whoever you talked to at Ridgid is wrong! My arbor is not like yours (see my post above). I may be a novice woodworker, but I was a machinist for 25 years and if there was a problem with my saw, I would know it.
              Lorax
              "Did you put the yellow key in the switch?" TOD 01/09/06

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              • #22
                I agree with Strong330's description of the problem. However, as I have said, for me, this does not justify returning the saw. But that is a personal decision, and I can certainly respect it.

                Lorax, I fully believe that you and other owners have a "normal" arbor. I mentioned this fact again this morning when I spoke with RIDGID tech support. They hold to their claim that all of the TS3650's have this weird design that they inherited from Emerson. They guy said they would be more than happy to send me another arbor, but it would be like the one I have.

                Support said they have actually only had "a couple" of phone complaints about this problem. One suggestion they had, which others here have written about, would be to manually square up the blade or chipper that sits over the recess with the other blade(s), and then tighten up the arbor bolt. That seems like a rather unscientific workaround to me.

                The dado blades all seem to at least lie completely perpendicular to the arbor thread (i.e. parallel to the arbor flange). I have not seen any problem with a blade tilting in the dado set, as the pressure of the collar or the arbor nut makes all the blades square. I may take some photos this weekend, and post them. This is probably not a huge issue, but it may save some future owners some time.
                There are three kinds of people in this world - those who can count, and those who can't.

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                • #23
                  The more I think about this, the larger a problem it becomes.

                  Because of this issue withe the recessed arbor area ( which my saw and my father both have) it really complicates alot of usefullness of a dado set on a table saw.

                  Its fine for shelves on a cabinet, but Rabbet, end dados, box joints, and tenon cutting arent exact or have issues.

                  I even tried my stack dado set on a Jet saw and the grove was completly flat. The problem isnt with my blades, it is definately with the saw.

                  And to the ridgid suggestion of Manually squaring up the chipper or blade over the recess.


                  at 4000 rpm im pretty sure that blade or chipper will slip.


                  This issue is easily fixable on the part of ridgid. they need to address it imediately.

                  Design flaw or known issues can be fixed.

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                  • #24
                    There is no problems with my arbor on my 3612. IF indeed the design flaw was inherited, then it would be flawed on my machine as well. Does this mean I have a defect? I think not. A loose fitting blade is a safety hazard, and should be treated as such. Loose blades can slide around and enlarge the hole creating more potential for disaster. I have a feeling that the reps don't want to deal with the issue. One this is for sure though. If enough people complain, the problem will be taken care of. Perhaps the right people aren't in the loop.

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                    • #25
                      just called and made a formal complaint.

                      Again, they are aware and emerson blah,blah,blah.

                      took my name,number and address though and will get back to me.

                      He did suggest the manual square up method, but after i made my reply that it will and could still slip, he did agree.

                      I suggest everyone to make a call, it takes 10 minutes and will be the only way to resolve this problem.

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                      • #26
                        I'll call again and complain. I'm just afraid that RIDGID tech support is about five layers removed from the engineers and production at OWT, the manufacturer.

                        Now if someone had a SAFETY ISSUE, and came close to being injured by kickback from a dado wedgey.... well, that would be something to turn some heads...

                        Still, I know a lot of you have no problems with your arbors, but I suspect there are more of us with "defective" arbors than RIDGID realizes. I, for one, am going public with my cause...
                        There are three kinds of people in this world - those who can count, and those who can't.

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                        • #27
                          KEEP 'EM COMIN GUYS (and Gals)!! LET'S GET EVERYONE TO COME OUT OF THE WOODWORK (no pun intended) I knew I wasn't the only one!! Thanks for the support!!

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                          • #28
                            Is there any way to get a sleeve on there? I know it would be thin but if it could be mounted on there it could level the problem out.

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                            • #29
                              I agree with Lorax----Strong, whoever you talked to doesn't know what they are talking about. The problem was fixed by Emerson. My old Craftsman had the problem. When I replaced the arbor assembly (due to bearings) the new arbor shaft no longer had the problem. So, there is a fix, and as Lorax indicated----it's likely a QC problem with whatever machine they're using to mill/thread the arbor shaft.

                              But, bottom line, if you're getting this "we can't fix it" response now, I seriously doubt you'll be getting any help in the foreseeable future. Either live with it or pack it up and take it back----there is supposed to be a 60 or 90 day satisfaction guarenteed period.

                              While none of the dado joints I cut with the old arbor ever came apart, can't say they look the greatest either.

                              BTW----just looking through a flyer last night. Both Delta and General have bumped up prices on their stationary tools (either due to steel prices or dollar's decline). Griz' catalog shows no increases---yet. The Genaral saw I mentioned before is up to $700 from 650.
                              Dave

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                              • #30
                                This may turn out to be the longest thread ever on this forum, but if it culminates in a victory for the "little guy" (didn't mean you, Strong330), it will have been worth it. I called the company that does RIDGID's press releases. They said they would pass this info along to the product manager for this saw, but they would not give me his name. (Gee, no surprise there.)

                                I'm going to ask my HD buddy/salesman for the name of the local RIDGID rep. Maybe that will lead to something. Yes, Daveferg, I am in that 90-day period, but just the time I have spent setting up and aligning this baby is worth more than what I paid for the saw.

                                I know I need to decide one way or the other, and for my part, I know I will probably keep the saw. BTW, if RIDGID does come up with the correct arbor, and sends it to me, is this a fairly easy assembly for me to secure it in line, and have low runout specs like I have with the "factory setting"?

                                [ 12-03-2004, 02:24 PM: Message edited by: Sawdust Steve ]
                                There are three kinds of people in this world - those who can count, and those who can't.

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