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Rusty Table Saw Top

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  • #16
    Here in NE Fla. rust was a big problem..2413, sander, planer, joiner etc. NO MORE ( No, I did not get rid of my tooks ) I use MINWAX.. 3 or 4 GOOD coats I have found that IT WORKS.. be sure to clean and fine #320 BEFORE waxing.. Hope that will help..

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    • #17
      I saw a post months ago on another forum which suggested Penetrol. It is made by Flood and can be found at HD in the paint section. I cleaned my cast iron top then applied several coats then Johnson paste wax. Very happy so far with the results in that have not noticed any new rust. The metal top does not look like it is 21 yrs old. I have wiped down all the metal parts on other machines as well and it seems to work. (NE Florida also)

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      • #18
        Go easy with the W-D 40. It's a great moisture displacer, but if left in place for a while the carrier evaporates and it turns gummy. Kerosene is a good start, and so is Slick 50 or Boeshield. Remember, cast iron is porous so you want to apply it over a period of time so that it penetrates the metal instead of sitting on top. Another suggestion is to use a Scotchbrite pad with rubbing compound, and then follow up with white polishing compound. THEN use the rust preventative. Most of my tools are 20 yrs + , and not a rusty table among 'em. and I live 4 blocks from Lake Michigan, with humidity up the wazoo. Hope this helps.
        Dawg
        He who dies with the most power tools wins!

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        • #19
          My uncle who is also my mentor uses a rubber bottom floor mat. The rubber keeps it on the table and the top is a tight carpet that makes a great sanding pad or use as a bench. This is great in my small shop. However I do not know how good the rubber is for the top.

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          • #20
            Also you may keep a fan on slow speed to keep the air circulating and have a window or door part open to keep the air moving..It does help me in the garage, keeping the door up about 4 inches.

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