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JP610 blades offset

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  • JP610 blades offset

    Does anyone know if you can offset the JP610 jointer blades in order to minimize the effects of nicked blades?

    Thanks.
    Steve

  • #2
    The Rabbet feature uses the ends of the knives, so it appears that they need to be kept aligned.

    I make a point of using different parts of the blade for wood less than 6 inches by moving the fence, so equalize the wear and minimize the impact of my nicked blades. I also burnished the back side of the blade (roughly speaking, bent the nicked metal back) which appeared to reduce the nick, or at least gave me the feeling of doing something about it.

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    • #3
      my recommendation would be to buy another set and send your nicked set in to be sharpened. ensure you send all three blades in at once. you might find somewhere local, however i recommend carbide.com. they do an AWESOME job on jointer blades, saw blades, etc. you can actually find a set of blades in stock at sears, the craftsman jointer blades fit the ridgid and you don't have to wait for them to be shipped (i have recommended that home depot carry these blades but my local has not as of yet). anyway in my opinion your best bet is to get them sharpened as if you offset them you will find yourself in a position where you need to do a job that you cant because your blade is nicked. and at that point you will end up getting pissed off that you did not fix the problem now instead of then

      just my two cents
      \"A SHIP OF WAR IS THE BEST AMBASSADOR\"<br /><br />OLIVER CROMWELL

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      • #4
        I've noticed that many folks use the jointer for rabbeting. I have done this, but I find that removing the safety fence and pin is a pain. Do others out there remove and reinstall the safety fence every time or just leave it off?

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        • #5
          i use my router for rabbeting
          \"A SHIP OF WAR IS THE BEST AMBASSADOR\"<br /><br />OLIVER CROMWELL

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          • #6
            Why are you removing the safety cover to rabbet? Move the fence close to the edge, and run the board vertically, and the safety cover works fine. It takes several passes to get the full depth of most rabbets, but they go fast.

            I sharpened the blades on my JP610 for the first time last night. It is like a new machine - first piece of wood cut looked like it had been sanded with 180 grit. But the bigger lesson to me was how easy it was to get the blades aligned (I had put off the sharpening by horror stories, such as buying special jigs to align the blades, etc. It was easy.) In fact it was so easy, that I might put the blades out of alignment temporarily to hide a nick (until I could get them sharpened), and realign them if I needed to use the JP610 for a rabbet. This is a change from my previous post.

            Also, the alignment is so easy that the blades do not have to be sharpened identially (in fact each blade was slightly different as it came from the factory). I had been avoiding sharpening until I got the jig that made the three blades identical. Just sharpen them perfectly straight, and use the jointer alignment.

            Super design for the JP610!

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            • #7
              Which jig did you acquire for sharpening?
              Sometimes I like to rabbett wider stock, and
              the fence/pin won't allow for that. In this
              case I guess just stick with the router, it's just that the jointer does such a nice job.

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              • #8
                I got the Planer/Jointer blade jig for the Tormek. It took a long time to get used to the $130 price for the jig, but I finally did it.

                That jig keeps the setting between blades, so you can mount additional blades from the set and grind them identically. That is where I found that the original Ridgid blades were not the same, and that it didn't matter.

                You are not supposed to be able to use the jig for the disposable planer blades, but I did.

                I'm still concerned about your rabbet limitation. See page 31 of the Jointer manual - the board goes through the unit vertically against the fence. If the rabbet is 3/8 inch (over the blade), there is another almost 3/4 inch beyond the blade, before the guard, so you can rabbet 1 inch stock. I have done backs of cabinets (to inset the plywood back), where the piece was 2 feet wide.

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                • #9
                  (apology for a quick hijack)
                  How are you impressed by that jig, Charlie? It's a beautiful piece of metal, for sure. About how long did it take for the set of jointer knives?

                  Dave
                  (repeat, apologies...)

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    The first set took a long time because I couldn't believe that the blades were different. When I finally accepted that each blade must be perfectly flat, but doesn't have to be the same as the other blades since they are individually adjustable, the time was comparable to a chisel - maybe even a little faster to set up. The comparison includes considering the condition of the blades - whether you need time to grind out a ding, or just the time to sharpen it up a bit.

                    To push the system, I also sharpened a pair of the disposable blades on the thickness planer (the side of the blade I had already abandoned). I used the alignment hole in the blade along the edge of the clamp of the jig, since it is too narrow to properly bottom in the jig. Those had to be aligned perfectly since there isn't an adjustment on the machine. The first try wasn't perfect, and the results showed. A second try produced great results. With the small blades I don't know how many times I will be able to sharpen each one, but I will certainly do it.


                    That jig is so precise that it became obvious I had to true my abrasive wheel - I hadn't even noticed it was out of round.

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                    • #11
                      Thanks, Charlie, I appreciate it. Been looking a while for someone who actually used it.

                      Dave

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