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  • Mixing polyurethanes.

    Can a semi gloss or gloss polyurethane be applied over top of a satin? Assuming the same brand of poly and a clean surface?

  • #2
    depends on type. I don't like water based anything other than paint.

    Use a oil based stain, and poly. clear or satin, you'll love the results.

    you have a 12 hour hour recoat without sanding rule on oil base, and that has it's advantages as well as disadvantages.

    I brush 2 light coats of poly, let set 48 hours. Sand with 320 or 400, and spray the final coat or 2. If you like the "dipped in glass" look, go with clear.
    John E. Adams<br /><a href=\"http://www.woodys-workshop.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.woodys-workshop.com</a>

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    • #3
      You can do it. I've done it by accident with minwax.
      I didn't like the results. They weren't bad, I just didn't like it. I would do a test area to see how it works if I were you. I know of no benefit to your idea.
      www.TheWoodCellar.com

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      • #4
        Thanks UO_Woody and Rafael, I have already stained with an oil based stain and applied a 3 coats of oil based satin poly with a brush. I sanded with 320 between each coat. I was just thinking that maybe the top of the dresser would look good with a bit more sheen. I definately won't jump right into brushing the whole top with a semi, I'll test an area not as visible first. When I posted the first message, the polyurethane was still wet giving it a very glassy look of course and I thouhgt that I might like that look on the top.

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        • #5
          Don't mix a water-based on the oil-based and I would stick with the same manufacturer of the poly. But putting a glossy over and satin will probably improve the sheen of the satin but you might want to try something else the next time if you really don't want the high gloss but want to make the satin look better. Start with a couple of coats of high gloss and make the final coat satin. This makes the satin "clearer" and gives a look that I personally like. Be sure to try it on a piece of scrap (but sanded as you plan to sand on the original) first though.

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          • #6
            Don't be affraid to cover up a satin poly with a clear gloss poly. It' works well, I've done it. It actually gives some depth to the finish, if that is what you like.

            For me, Satin doesn't exist. The only thing I ever apply stain to is pine. The natural beauty of wood itself is evermost pleasing to my eyes, and a "dipped in glass" look is what I prefer to magnify the natural woodgrain beauty.

            We all differ in our prefernces, and ideals of what a finished product should look like. Some master staining, such as walnut, to be totally even, almost a manufactured look. To me, what's the point? Wood itself is not perfect. Bringing out the grain is the real issue.

            What you MUST do, is upon planning your project, and assembly, is align the material of any flavor so when you do add that finish, it flows like a beautiful Rose at full bloom. To me, that is the true beauty of wood. Not slapping something together and making it look good with all kinds and types of finishes.

            But that's just me. I'm sure I'll get feed back on this one!
            John E. Adams<br /><a href=\"http://www.woodys-workshop.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.woodys-workshop.com</a>

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            • #7
              I'm finished my dresser now and I decided to stick with the satin poly on the top, but at least I know in the future, and I can always change it later if need be. I have made several Walnut projects and I agree with UO_Woody, why stain them? They just look to good natural. I like to stain pine, as much of a pain as it is. I also tend to stain oak as I find the stain can enhance the grain more so than just a clear coat by itself. As you said UO_Woody, choosing grain direction is also an important step, at least to me. Its those fine details which distinguish our personal quality work with the crappy department store furniture you see!

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