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  • what glue/fastener to use

    I am fixing a table base for my neighbor. The majority of it is no problem, the problem was that his dad "made it work" the first time and since the bolts to hold the top to the leg have been replaced X2 and they are done. I was going to custom make them, i have some rod that i can cut to size and thread no problem. but how to securely mount them in the wood. i thought of gorilla glue. the other option is to drill a small hole all the way through the wood and the rod, and use one of those tension pins to hold it, hiding it from the out side with an oak plug.

    the other idea was to pick up some alvin lab metal and fill the holes, then tap those out.

    again this was a "custom" table job, basically the base was bought and made to fit the top.

    thanks for your help
    \"A SHIP OF WAR IS THE BEST AMBASSADOR\"<br /><br />OLIVER CROMWELL

  • #2
    I would use epoxy. Drill or clean out the existing holes, fill with epoxy and place the bolts back in (don't overfill or you will have a mess.) The epoxy you select depends on the amount of working time you need - I think the 5 minute type would be ok, just mix one patch for each leg or for two legs if you can work fast, then do another batch.

    Be sure you know exactly how you intend to hold the bolts in place before you get started - nothing like a bolt pointing in the wrong direction because it moved just before the epoxy set - can you tell this suggestion has some hair on it?
    Ray

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    • #3
      Thanks Ray. Yeah i have some 5 minute epoxy but will likely buy some that is in the injector for this. the stuff i have is in the 2 part foil packs and does not pour well.

      And i want to cut the thread once the glue is dried which is why i thought i might want a mechanical fastener in it as well.

      wasn't sure if a poly glue would work as well as epoxy.

      Ed
      \"A SHIP OF WAR IS THE BEST AMBASSADOR\"<br /><br />OLIVER CROMWELL

      Comment


      • #4
        Two thoughts: One, with the injector type you still need to mix it, you do not inject it into the hole - in case you didn't know - and two, be sure to put a nut on the rod before you cut it so that you can clean the threads by taking the nut off - also, consider putting a washer under the nut to help level the epoxy by pushing it down onto the leg (won't work if your on the corner of the leg,)just be sure you grease the washer or put wax paper between it and the epoxy or you will have a permanent washer installation!

        Um, I think that was three thoughts!
        Good luck.

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        • #5
          Actually i had not looked at the directions, I boought the injector this morning. I thought you could just inject it and then mix it with the rod in an up and down motion. After cutting the threads, i have a chaser set so the nut will not be required. I am using 5/16 round stock and did buy 1/16 tension pins as well. I might try to drill a small hole into the rod once it is inserted and glued into place and use the tension pin for some extra security.

          Actually i talked to my neighbor and i am glad i did, the current bolts are too short not too long. Built a jig today to cut the rod on my CMS with a 10" metal blade.

          Going out to breakfast tomorrow and then hitting Harbor Freight's parkinglot sale. I need a few sacrificial tools and one never knows what they will find at these things. Even though i do not like their house brand crap, you never know what name brand stuff will pop up. Hell i bought a milwaukee three piece pathfinder bit set for 9.99 from them. almost lost it. hell of a price!

          So what the heck.

          Cummings Industrial was just in town picked up a few items primarily throw away stuff.

          But then all attention turns to fixing the table.

          Already have the crack stop drilled and the oak dowel with an almost perfect grain pattern to plug the hole. turned one of my clamps into a spreader clamp, got the stain on stand by for the repair and ready to go. this was repaired once before but not right obviously as it cracked again. The new studs were throwing me for a loop as i do not have a lot to work with width wise on the base so they need to remain 5/16. Short of buying a helicoil set I figured we can just thread some new rod and custom cut them. fastening them securily was the problem.

          Thanks for the tip on the epoxy! I don't know that i would have read the directions. Would have made for a bad day

          thanks for the help
          \"A SHIP OF WAR IS THE BEST AMBASSADOR\"<br /><br />OLIVER CROMWELL

          Comment


          • #6
            Well, how did you make out with the table leg - Or did you spend too much time at Harbor Freight?

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            • #7
              Harbor freight....LOL. I went to work on it. will be finishing it up this weekend. i am on a medical leave of absence from work awaiting surgery so my mind has not been inthe game.

              i did get her cleaned up and glued. i wish i would have had another pony band clamp. one area that did glue but has a gap. i have a plastic applicator so i will be filling it in with saw dust and elmers "stainable" glue.

              i have also made the jig to cut the round stock on my CMS with a 10" metal blade.

              will cut at an angle so it has something to bite into, then will squae the rod and do the epoxy thing. once dry i will attempt to cut threads on it. if that does not secure it enough i have some 1" tension pins 3/16 diameter tht i will be drilling in and inserting to ensure it is held in place to cut the threads. but i think the epoxy will be strong enough.

              i will let you know how it turns out.

              my trip to harbor freight was uneventful. it was supposed to be a parking lot sale but everything was inside. nothing in the show cases was marked properly and no one knew what the hell was going on. i did pick up a few small items, nothing big and did not stay long. i used to live not far from their camirillo california main store. when they put on a parking lot sale it was just that!

              not a cambodian cluster beep.

              their prices on channellock products were hard to beat. their prices on pneumatic 18 gague brads were way out there! picked up some diamond dremel bits, a cord that i can plug in above and plug my shop tools into it, and some cheap clamps for a project i am tinkering with that should work!

              table leg going well so far...will let you know how it comes out!
              \"A SHIP OF WAR IS THE BEST AMBASSADOR\"<br /><br />OLIVER CROMWELL

              Comment


              • #8
                I'll be waiting!

                Comment


                • #9
                  Evenin' Space,

                  there is a product from UZ mfg in Cleveland that works on the same principle as a pop rivet gun. you pre drill the piece or pieces if needed, and then you get the gun and the metal female threaded end that fits your hole, and press it into the wood, until it expands enough to hold and then you just screw your bolt into it and tighten it down. no need to hide anything, or plug the hole, because you can doit from the back side and you won't see anything from the front.

                  just another way to try.

                  happy woodworking guys

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Well forgot to let you all know. It came out great. The elmers "stainable" worked pretty well. I ended up making one mistake. I mounted the studs in the holes prior to threading them. I ended up having to pull them out, cut the threads on the vise, and then reinstall them. I did end up using a forstner bit, tension pins, and a plug to give them added security. Stain blended nicely and couldn't hardly tell. With the table top on, you never saw them. Once the threads were cut and i cut new pieces, the epoxy and tension pins worked great.

                    Couldn't be happier with the end result for this particular repair.
                    \"A SHIP OF WAR IS THE BEST AMBASSADOR\"<br /><br />OLIVER CROMWELL

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