Router Material Feed

[Plumber Punky]

I've never used a router before. While I think I'm a pretty smart guy, I look at this thing mounted on the router table and the direction of feeding the material mystifies me.

As I look at it, the bit points up at me and the arrow on the router points left. The bit spins counter-clockwise. A few test runs revealed to me that the unit wants to push whatever it is cutting to the left. Does that mean I feed from the right towards the left side? Does it matter what side the feed is from?

I read the instructions, it doesn't address this. It does warn about forceful ejection of material being routed and to practice good safety mannerisms.

[BadgerDave]

Re: Router Material Feed

When using a router that is table mounted, the feed direction is right to left. When using a router hand held, the router is moved across from the LH side of the work piece to the RH side.

[billmoy]

Re: Router Material Feed

Good Morning

Try this link. It shows the position of the bit relative to the fence and the feed direction.

Bill

http://www.woodcraft.com/Articles/Ar...?ArticleId=605

[BHD]

Re: Router Material Feed

normally feed into the bits rotation just like a saw blade, just like everything there are some small exceptions to the rule, but 99.5% of the time feed into the bits rotation.

[CWSmith]

Re: Router Material Feed

As mentioned, with the router mounted in the table and bit coming up through the table you would feed from right to left, across the router bit. NEVER feed between the router bit and the fence. The fence should be positioned so that the router bit protrudes in a manner where it is between the split in the fence and the fence acts to guide the stock across the face of the rotating bit... again, from right to left.

Like with a jointer, the fence acts in to set the depth of the router bit cutting edge into the face of the stock, when routing the edge of the stock. If you are routing a rabbeted edge, again the setting of the fence sets how far into the edge the cut will be and the router height adjustment determines the depth of the rabbet. Same would apply in using a router table to cut a dado or slot into the wood.

In all these cases, the feed is from right to left. Using feather boards mounted on the fence and/or in the table miter slot (if so equipped) is a real advantage for both consistancy of cut and operator safety.

I hope this helps,

CWS

[Bob D.]

Re: Router Material Feed

You won't see them in most photos or videos of table mounted routers but use bit guards where ever possible.
They will claim they leave them off for photographic purposes, maybe. But many people don't use them just like
they don't use a blade guard on a table saw.

At 25,000 RPM a router can chew up your fingers so fast its not funny. And unlike a table saw there will be no
pieces to sew back on, so you can figure on going around with a couple stumps.

The router; handheld or table-mounted; demands respect like any other power tool.

And when the hair on the back of your neck stands up when you go to feed that piece of wood in, just stop
and think again if you're about to do something stupid.

[Plumber Punky]

Re: Router Material Feed

Thanks to everyone for the informative answers. I'm cutting 3/8" slots 5/8" deep into the center of the wide face of a pine 2x3 to accept plywood for pine shelving. I had been feeding right to left as that's what seemed to work best and the confirmations, as above, make me feel better. Unfortunately, I couldn't justify nearly $180 for a router table that I need for literally only 15 minutes. So I looked long and hard at the display models and then built my own.

Maybe I'll post pictures of my Rube Goldberg table later. It's kind of ironic, I can build the table for the router, but couldn't figure out the best way to use it.

[Bob D.]

Re: Router Material Feed

Nothing wrong with making your own, just make it safe. If you looked at a few commercially made models, I have no doubt you can quickly figure out how to make your own, and you did just that.

[Big Jim]

Re: Router Material Feed

Cutting a 5/8" deep groove with a 3/8" bit will probably
require several passes at different depths. That means
that the router will need to be stable when you raise the
bit after each pass to maintain a consistent width of the
groove. IMO a dado blade on the table saw would be a
better choice for that particular job.

[Plumber Punky]

Re: Router Material Feed

i dont have a table saw. the bit is 3/8" wide, 1" long overall, made by Bosch. I bought a porter-cable 690LR router. It handles the cut in one pass very well.

[franklin pug]

Re: Router Material Feed

When you have a router mounted in a table, the feed direction is from right to left. If you feed from left to right, it is known as "climb cutting", and it has a place in woodworking. It's mostly used to reduce tear out. It can be dangerous, so make sure you know what is happening before trying it. It's used often for decorative edge treatments for a short distance before routing in the regular direction.

Using the guards is very important with a table mounted router. You will also certainly want dust collection of some sort. Many tables have under the table and behind the fence collection.

If you continue using your router and want to try some bearing bits, you may also want to use a starting pin.

Even if your router can handle the task in one pass, it is good practise to use three. The first two eliminate most of the waste, and the the third is a light pass to clean everything up. This helps to keep your cut clean, consistent, and reduces heat on the bit, making it last longer.

I have a 3 HP router in my table, and always take a min of three passes on my work.

[Bob D.]

Re: Router Material Feed

i don't have a table saw. the bit is 3/8" wide, 1" long overall, made by Bosch. I bought a porter-cable 690LR router. It handles the cut in one pass very well.

I broke a 1/4" bit trying to make a 1/2" deep cut many (20+) years ago. I had just bought a Craftsman router and was working with some oak making a shelf. I fed the bit a little too fast and ended up snapping the bit at the base. Luckily the piece of the bit that came loose remained lodged in the wood, if not it might have shot out from the underside and hit me in the leg. How much damage it might have done I don't know, but I considered it a close call. I still have that old Craftsman router. A couple years ago I was going to toss it but found that parts were still available and I got it back in working condition again. I now keep a small roundover bit in it and that's about all I use it for. Saves me changing bits in one of the other routers.

Depending on the wood and your feed rate you may get away with making that cut in one pass. But it is much safer and easier on the bit and the tool to do multiple passes. The 690 series routers are 2-1/4HP, a medium size router as far as power goes, and can handle all but the biggest bits. I have a couple that I use for various tasks and I would not try the cut you did even though I know it can be done. Even with the big PC 7518 I would not do it routinely. There are some cuts where you need to do one pass because of the profile of the cut sometimes you can't make a series of progressive cuts raising the bit or stepping the fence back and get the result you want, but they are not common.

[franklin pug]

Re: Router Material Feed

There are some cuts where you need to do one pass because of the profile of the cut sometimes you can't make a series of progressive cuts raising the bit or stepping the fence back and get the result you want, but they are not common.

Good point. I use single cut passes when making cope and stick doors on the RT.

[Bob D.]

Re: Router Material Feed

Good point. I use single cut passes when making cope and stick doors on the RT.

Thats probably the most common one pass cut, you're right.

[johncameron]

Re: Router Material Feed

i dont have a table saw. the bit is 3/8" wide, 1" long overall, made by Bosch. I bought a porter-cable 690LR router. It handles the cut in one pass very well.

I would rate a table saw as the #1 must have woodworking tool in your shop. Problem you might find the router table is too small for larger pieces. I would much prefer my ts with a dado blade. It allows me to turn out the job much quicker.