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if used or not used a table saw top will rust in humid weather. a dehumidifier could help.putting 3 in 1 oil on steel wool to clean is better than most expensive products. also you should use a paste wax for further protection and ease of wood to go past the blade, ps use it more often ha ha have fun. watch out on that slippery top,, count your fingers and keep them. I hope this will help
For rust prevention, products such as Boeshield T-9 and Bostic TopCote get high marks. Paste waxes such as Johnson's Paste Wax and Minwax Paste Wax are great for making the cast iron surface slippery but only marginal as an actual rust preventer. The best of both worlds is to start with a base of either the T-9 or Topcote and finish it off with a layer or two of a good quality silicone free paste wax.
For rust removal, I like to use WD40, a Scotchbrite pad, the kind made for teflon pans, and my ROS. Just make sure that you don't use too much WD40 that it soaks through the pad and gets on you ROS's pad.
I decided to change calling the bathroom the "John" and renamed it the "Jim". I feel so much better saying I went to the Jim this morning.
Pardon if I piggy-back on this thread, but here's my problem which I just posted on another wood forum...
Have a 4 month old Ridgid TS3650 table saw and have used all the popular materials for keeping off rust: Boeshield, Top Coat and paste wax. Up here in Maine we do get very humid weather and I use the saw only occasionally, i.e. twice a month. It stayed rust-free for the first month when I hadn't used any rust protection. Got some Boeshield, applied it as directed (I believe) and next week rust appeared. Cleaned off it off with WD40 and 2000 grit wet/dry sandpaper. Changed to Top Coat and rust was back in a week, but more than before. WD40 again and sanding and then tried some Butcher's wax. Another week and the rust is back.
Either something is wrong with the cast iron top or I'm applying the materials incorrectly or my expectation of an idle saw remaining relatively rust-free is wrong. BTW, spoke with Ridgid and they said some saws have 'chronic' rust problems no matter what you do and are willing to swap out the saw for a new one. I thought I'd try one more time to solve it before I try to move all 280 pounds!
What is your experience, advice, comments. Thanks...english
P.S. You said you're getting no rust by using Boeshield and Top Coat? Where do you keep your saw, i.e. heated room, and how are you applying it?
English - Try cleaning off the surface well with mineral spirits. Apply a coat of T-9 and let it dry over night. Wipe any remaining residue off. Apply a coat of Johnsons or Minwax paste wax. Repeat in 48 hours, and again in another 48 hours. If that doesn't do it, I don't know what will.
Thanks guys. I cleaned up the saw yesterday w/WD40 and put on TopCoat, then Boeshield for good measure. It looked brand new, but this morning rust streaks seem to be forming under the coating. I had forgotten to use mineral spirits or alcohol after the WD40 but the top was clean as a whistle after being wiped down numerous times.
If the rust comes back I may try the Boeshield/paste wax routine once more. If that does't do it, I'll swap it out for a new one which I'll put in a semi-heated basement shop. It may be as the tech supervisor said, some tops are compromised right from the get-go. He also said that sometimes after manufacture moisture is present under the oiled paper that protects the saw during shipping and that those have chronic problems. I find that strange because you should see rust under the goo if moisture was present, but you don't always get that according to him.
The TS3650 on display at HD looked very good until summer hit and the humidity arrived. It looks very rusty on two of the table top panels. Thanks for the help...english
This is what I have done, may help but I do not have "years" experience to prove that it does.
I made vinyl covers for all my equipment and sewed them together as form fitting as I wished. My equipment is in my barn loft, uninsulated, unheated and in the deep south and seems to be helping. The vinyl covers have a cloth/fabric backing which tends to absorb the moisture.
It is impossible to make anything foolproof because fools are so ingenious.