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  • Plywood edging

    I am working with oak plywood to build a bookcase. The material is easy to work with and has yielded good results up till now.

    Can someone please tell me how to finish the edges off? I figured I could get shelf edging (8' trim pieces, solid oak) but this seems real pricey. Any other suggestions? I am trying to match the oak the best I can.

  • #2
    You can get edging in rolls, with or without heat activated adhesive. HD, Lowes, Rockler, etc.

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    • #3
      I've used the rolled edging before and applied it with an iron...wish they made it just 3/4" wide though....you have to trim off the extra as it's made 13/16" wide for some reason (I'm sure it's a good one). It works very well and takes stain well also. You can get it for about $40-60 per roll depending on the type wood you've used.
      Kelly C. Hanna<br /><a href=\"http://www.hannawoodworks.com\" target=\"_blank\">Hanna Woodworks</a>

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      • #4
        I have made a sewing table, computor desk (2 story), a chest of drawers, and a queen headboard using oak plywood. I bought a bullnosed router bit to do the edge treatment. I use oak 1 by 4, 1 by 6, or 1 by 8, run both edges through the router table, and then through my table saw to cut off the trim. The resulting strips are wider than the plywood and are glued and bradded onto the plywood edges. I use Stain Putty by Bix to fill the brad holes. This powder is mixed with the stain I use on the project and hides the holes completely.

        When the trim pieces need to meet at a 90 degree angle without a miter, I feather the bottom of the end to match the curve of the other trim.

        For the tops of the sewing table and the computor desk, I banded MDF with oak strips 1" wide by 3/4" thick, laminated Formica on amd chamfered the edges.

        I do not have a digital camera for pics.

        Mac
        Mac<P>Problems are opportunities in disguise

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        • #5
          You can get it for about $40-60 per roll depending on the type wood you've used.
          Kelly, I hope that is a bulk amount. I think I paid bout $5.00 for a 25 ft roll of Birch at HD.

          Rick
          <a href=\"http://photos.yahoo.com/rixworx\" target=\"_blank\">http://photos.yahoo.com/rixworx</a>

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          • #6
            Yep, it was a 150 feet roll...still ahve about 25 feet of it. I didn't know they had that at HD's...that'll save me a trip next time.
            Kelly C. Hanna<br /><a href=\"http://www.hannawoodworks.com\" target=\"_blank\">Hanna Woodworks</a>

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            • #7
              The extra width of the edging seems to be so I can mess up the alignment, and trim more from one side than the other. If you have a laminate trimmer for your router, it works well, but for smaller amounts I have used a razor blade, utility knife, or hand plane. The Iron On glue is far easier than the contact cement used in decades past.

              Rather than the verneer laminate, my favorite technique is to glue a piece of real hardwood to the plywood - for example a 1 x 4 makes gluing very easy. When the glue has dried, then rip the panel-with-wide-edge to the final dimension with only 1/4 to 3/4 inch of hardwood left. The "scrap" is then available for the next edge. When the scrap gets thin, it can still be used but alignment and clamping is a little harder. The solid edging (rather than verneer) is available for machining a decorative edge like an ogee, bullnose, chamfer, or whatever, and brads are not required in the final product.

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              • #8
                Thanks everyone, I appreciate the heads up.

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