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Straighten bent board

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  • Straighten bent board

    I bought two pieces - actually one board cut into two 43 inch pieces - of quilted maple to use as a top for a window seat. The store had the wood inside for about three months. I have had the wood in the same room where it will be used for about a week. One of the boards has developed a slight bend. I am not certain bend is the correct word, but the board forms a slight 'C' shape from top to bottom. There does not seem to be any cupping i.e. the board is flat side to side. The board is 43 X 7 1/2 X 7/8. This stuff was $15.65 per foot and I hate to loose it if I don't have to. My plan, before I noticed the bend, was to joint and plane the boards to 3/4 and then to glue them together with biscuits. Does anyone know of a way to flatten the board?


  • #2
    I believe what you are describing is known as a bow or hook in the board. See this web page for a description of terms used (some with photos). Maybe give the board more time to stablize before giving up on it. Hopefully you have purchased your boards with enough width and length to allow for correcting minor problems and will have some 'extra width' which will allow you to rip the board straight again. You may need to attach a temporary straight edge to the board when you go to rip it, and be careful of built up stress in teh borad that may cause it to bind during cutting.


    • #3
      Bob D.

      Thank you for the web page that defined wood terms. I will give the board more time as you suggested. I am aware of potential problems of built up stress within boards but I don't know what you mean by attaching a temporary straight edge to the board.



      • #5
        Bob D.,

        Thank you for the web page that shows the straight cutting jig. I saw one in a Woodcraft store the other day that was almost exactly as the one pictured but I would prefer to make my own.

        On a somewhat related note your addendum to your posts about knowing where my fingers are pops into my mind almost every time I operate my table saw. Last night I had to make some short cuts from short stock and was tempted to hold them manually to the miter gauge. Your post popped into my mind and I realized my fingers would be too close to the blade. I took the time to add an extension to my miter gauge and held the pieces with a clamp.

        Snowing. Gotta put the plows on my truck, no shop work today.



        • #6
          visit . you will find the best tool ever invented . it will solve all of your problems , and once you use it you will want to sell your table saw


          • #7
            Since you're planning to use bisquits, anyway, why not spline it, stopping just short of the end? With material that expensive, I'd use my favorite splining material: plastic. I cut 7/8" strips of it from OpticGlass (sp?)—available at HomeDepot— on the table saw, rough it up with sandpaper for superior adhesion, then rout out the grooves with a bisquit blade that matches the thickness of the plastic (just under 7/32). I prefer to use Weldwood plastic resin glue for my adhesive. Of course, if you go that route, be sure to try it on a couple of pieces of scrap, first, just to make sure. After glueing and clamping, the 'bend' in the board should be gone.
            Nolo illigitamati carborundum


            • #8
              Manytimes I have purchased material, only to have them twist, warp, or curl (end-to-end.)

              I wet the boards down an lay them on a flat surface and place old, empty paint cans that I fill with sand on top of the board and leave it until it's completely dried (usually about a week.) For an 8' board I place 5 cans, a 10' - 6 cans, etc.

              It has worked for me for the last 30 years. [img]smile.gif[/img]
              Dimensional Carpentry & Custom Woodworking
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