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Saw Blade Types - Differences

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  • #16
    There's more to the smoothness of cut than just number of teeth. My 40T Forrest cuts alot cleaner than the Oldam 60T, and a bit cleaner than my Freud 50T. I'm well out of my area of expertise, but from what I understand, in addition to the type of grind and number of teeth, there are rake angles involved also. (probably several other factors too) The steeper the positive angle, the more aggressive the cut. Some blades have negative angles to help produce smoother edges, but they won't cut as quickly. I think both Freud and Forrest have sites that may explain this better than I can.

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    • #17
      Thanks to everyone for their input!

      Robo: are you using the stiffner/damper that Forrest recommends? I.e.: "We strongly recommend a dampener-stiffener against the outside of the blade for the smoothest, quietest, cuts. Dampener should be 1/2 the diameter of the saw blade.". This adds roughly another $30.00 to an already expensive blade...

      Hewood: I will add a dedicated Rip Blade since eventually I do plan to get into hardwoods. What you're saying makes sense.

      Gator: Thanks for your highly detailed explanation about Teeth and a recommended minimum inventory; solid advice and frankly that's what I'm going to do. May as well bite the bullet now and be done with it.

      Daveferg: At nearly $300 for the blades listed I can't keep them all; I bought them so as to have them in front of me and actually see what the differences were and make some side-by-side comparisons. I'd like to keep them obviously but right now with all that I'm pouring into this $hop it's not in the budget. Not that I began with one, mind you...

      Everyone, thanks!

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      • #18
        [scratching head???] Don't think I ever said to keep all the blades

        You've been given some great advice----particularly Gator who gave you a good explanation. I would say that you will eventually want three good blades----a combo, one to do plywood, and a rip blade.
        Dave

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        • #19
          Originally posted by TAC:
          More teeth = smoother cut!? I Have Fued Diablo Blades and they splinter cross cuts on plywood. Great for 2x4" but thats about it. I work with used lumber at times and the diablo will rip through nails without chipping a tooth, nor dulling out. I hit a nail with my stock ridgid 12" CSMS blade and lost three teeth, ouch! Anyway I am going to try the 12" woodworkers Frued. Oh yeah I tried a thin kerf on my old skill table saw and the flex warrented me to return it the next day.
          I have learned that it is almost never worth it to use used wood. If I do, I wouldn't use any woodworking quality blade if there were the possibility of nails.

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          • #20
            I ordered the Woodworker-II and was surprised to see that it only had 40 Teeth. I would have thought 80 going on the logic that more teeth would yield a cleaner crosscut.

            Why only 40 teeth on this blade? Just curious.

            Thanks!

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            • #21
              With the 1/8" kerf, no, I do not run a stiffner, I was told by many that they were mainly for thin kerf blades...Mine cuts wonderfully without it.

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              • #22
                Thanks Robo, much appreciated.

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                • #23
                  sorry i am chiming in late here.

                  i love my CMT general blade on my TS3612

                  i bought a CMT rip blade as well. love it too

                  only 2 issues with the general....burns the wood on miter cuts on hardwood, as well as burns the wood when ripping the hard stuff.

                  i got a great price on some fresh milled and kiln dried oak. i only had to rip 2 boards for a project so i did not bother putting in my rip blade. wished i would have as both cuts burned.
                  \"A SHIP OF WAR IS THE BEST AMBASSADOR\"<br /><br />OLIVER CROMWELL

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                  • #24
                    CMT is my blade of choice for my TS. Althought I am quite pleased with my Dewalt 40 grade crosscut blade that I picked up to use when my CMT crosscut was being sharpened. I am not a fan of "combo" blades such at the WWII. I do not mind the time it takes to make a blade change.
                    I came...<br /><br />I saw...<br /><br />I changed the plans.

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                    • #25
                      The WW II comes in a thin-kerf and a regular kerf. It is available in a 40-tooth and a 30-tooth (good if you are ripping wood 2 inches or thicker). They are usually the same price, right now around $105, but sometimes you can get a deal on the thin-kerf for as low as $90. I have the thin-kerf. Of the dozen and a half blades I have ever used, it is the best. If I ever have to get another, it would be the regular kerf, though, not because of cutting quality but because it could take more sharpenings. The manufacturer, Forrest, also does an outstanding job of sharpening and repair of their blades and any other brand. Forrest makes some fine blades: the WW II for general ripping and cross-cutting, the Duraline HI AT for laminates (plywood, melamine), the WW I for cross-cutting, and a few others I haven't used. If you want to learn more about blades, go onto the WoodNet Forums and search for table saw blades. There are many opinions out there about the best blade. Freud, Amana, Systimatic, and a few others are quite good, although I have found the WW II better than the examples of those brands I have used.
                      Joe Spear

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                      • #26
                        Joe,

                        Re the WW-II: I'd have to agree. Even on a rip with this blade, it will have the feel and appearance of already having been sanded...a claim I initially shrugged off as aggressive advertising until I saw the cuts.

                        Btw...I see you're in Wakefield. I'm in Methuen.

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                        • #27
                          I sent you a private message if you're interested in seeing how different blades work.
                          Joe Spear

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                          • #28
                            Re: Saw Blade Types - Differences

                            Do you always need to use a stiffner with a thin-kerf blade?

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                            • #29
                              Re: Saw Blade Types - Differences

                              Usually you don't need a stiffener. It would depend on the blade, of course, but typically no, you don't need to.
                              I put it all back together better than before. There\'s lots of leftover parts.

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                              • #30
                                Re: Saw Blade Types - Differences

                                Originally posted by climberboy View Post
                                Do you always need to use a stiffner with a thin-kerf blade?
                                Hi CB - I noted that this thread is several years old, but in that time span I've had the chance to try over 40 blades, many of them TKs, and have never encountered a situation that would have benefitted from a stiffener/stabilizer, and have never noticed any improvement when using one with a good TK blade. Some manufactures recommend them...technically it's more right than wrong from their perspective, but I tend to view them as "profit pucks" for the sellers side of the equation. Stiffeners also reduce the usable blade height.

                                TK's do have more tendency to flex than full kerf blades but obviously don't always flex, and IME it's rare depending on what you're doing. Proper blade selection is a factor. The blades themselves will rarely be the cause of a problem, but will tend to amplify one that exists elsewhere in the process. TK's are more prone to problems than full kerfs in high volume commercial situations where auto feeders, heat, dulling, and dirt are more prevalent. Most of the top tier blades are excellent and will only need a stiffener if there's excessive runout or other vibration inherent in the saw itself. Also, lumber that's warped or twisted can put some lateral pressure on the blade, which can cause some deflection. Lumber that's flat and straight isn't likely to pose an issue for a good TK. The are some types wood (like mesquite) that have very stiff grain and can cause more lateral pressure on the blade which can cause some deflection, but the vast majority of common wood varieties cut pretty easily.

                                The benefit of a TK blade is lower resistance, easier/faster feedrates in thicker materials, less motor strain, and less waste. I'll emphasize the importance of staying with high quality TK blades....Infinity, Forrest, Ridge Carbide, Amana Tool, the better CMTs, better Freuds, better DeWalts, better Deltas, better Tenryus, etc. (note that many brands have multiple lines and quality levels). Keep your saw aligned, pick the right blade for the job, and keep the blade clean and sharp, and the odds are heavily in your favor.
                                Last edited by hewood; 09-16-2008, 06:35 AM.

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