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Table Saw Router Wing

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  • Table Saw Router Wing

    I have had the TS24121 10" Table Saw for a year now and am really pleased with the quality of the saw. I have some questions on the optional parts. The Craftsman brand 10" Saw looks identical and has a lot of optional parts & accessories. I saw a cast iron wing with a hole for a router base to be mounted for the Sears Craftsman model. In their catalogue, they show a lighter duty (cast aluminum-looking) wing accessory, but no cast iron one. Is it possible to order a cast iron router wing as a Rigid brand item?

  • #2
    No Ridgid does not make a router table wing for the saw. But if I am not mistaken several people have purchased models from Sears with good results.



    • #3
      Don't get hung up on a manufactured unit. It's too easy to make one yourself. Besides, while they could be modified (I guess), most of the Sears stuff only fits Craftsman routers---eccch!

      It's fairly easy to build an extension table and put in a router insert, or even a whole table top. Get the router top/insert you want and build the extension accordingly. Just make sure you put it towards the outside of the extension table, so you can work from the end of the ts---much easier to use.


      • #4
        so you can work from the end of the ts---much easier to use

        Disagree. Working from where you normally operate the tablesaw makes it, well, just like working the tablesaw. The body memory is already established for that action. Also, loses half the benefit of the setup, a large work surface.



        • #5
          I think the other Dave hung a right turn to run the router table (presuming it is on his left) on his table saw true end from where you normally operate the saw... If you know what I mean... In essence standing at the end of the saw, perpendicular to the tablesaw blade and fence...

          Am I reading you right Dave's??? [img]smile.gif[/img]
          Regards,<br /><br />Big Johnson<br /><br />Pictures: <a href=\" gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php\" target=\"_blank\"> gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php</a>


          • #6
            Huh? Sorry, Big, but I can't parse that...

            (This) Dave's saw:

            Imagine we standing there, operating the saw. Now I turn off the saw, take a smallish step to the right, and start operating the router table. Same motion as saw, push stock away. Big expanse of table space (for really big, must lower blade and remove splitter).



            • #7
              Awe, I see how you are working your tablesaw/router table... You operate it in the same fashion that you run your tablesaw... I was imaging the router table to be on the other side of the saw and you stood from the end looking at the side of your very high quality overhead blade guard...

              The statement, "A picture is worth a thousand words is really true"...

              Thanks for sharing the photo...

              I was considering putting the table on the opposite end you have yours... Don't know why... Any particular other reason you have it on the right?

              By the way, I'm still running the "Big Freud" FT2000 by hand... I really need to get the table thing done...

              [ 12-06-2002, 06:59 PM: Message edited by: Big Johnson ]
              Regards,<br /><br />Big Johnson<br /><br />Pictures: <a href=\" gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php\" target=\"_blank\"> gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php</a>


              • #8
                Any particular other reason you have it on the right?

                'Cause that's where the fence is. If it were on the left, I would have to loosen the fence base, always get the blade and guardage out of the way, and slide the fence across the saw.

                And then, I'd lose the advantage of the huge tablesaw surface by only using the end of it.

                You use that Freud freehand, that's why they call you "Big".



                • #9
                  I like the idea if having a router table wing. But rather then replacing the cast iron wing I been thinking about adding one at the end of the right wing. (I have a TS2424 with the up grade rails) This would give me a table about 27"x 18". I could use slotted angle to mount the table to the rails. And add a pair of lags to the far end for support. I think I would be able to use the fence as it is and/or build a router fence that would mount to the fence via the slots in the fence. Does any one have any input one how this would work. At this time I'm limited on space. When I have a bigger shop I do plan on building a stand alone router table.
                  Dan<br /> <a href=\"\" target=\"_blank\"></a>


                  • #10
                    Try going to and looking a their router tables. They have one that mounts between saw rails, comes with adjustable fence and only costs about $150 (About $120 when they go on sale.) You get a custom table insert made from aluminum that fits a variety of routers.

                    I have the regular version that I made legs for. For what I paid for it, it's nice ($120) I would just like to make one for the saw by myself, but can't find sheets of plain melamine to cement to MDF. (if anyone knows where to find either 1" MDF with melamine, or sheets of melamine to bond to the MDF, let me know.)


                    • #11
                      Mike, you're calling it the wrong thing and confusing them. Ask for "high-pressure laminate". If that gets you a blank stare from the store clerk say "you know, Formica".

                      By the way, if you ask for it at a cabinet shop, you might get it anywhere from half the price of a retailer, to free. Or not, depends on the shop.



                      • #12
                        I am confused now. I've seen many posts were MDF is the recommended material for a router table or router wing. I am about to build one but have not bought any material yet. Should I not use MDF? Does this High pressure stuff already have a coating on it? Approximately how much should a 4x8 sheet cost?


                        • #13
                          Dave, Thanks for the suggestion on the surface. I hadn't thought of the correct term for the surface, or the fact that it doesn't necessarily need to be white.

                          JPM, The high pressure laminate is just the top surface that is normally bonded by contact cement to countertops and cabinets.


                          • #14
                            Happy to help, Mike. If you can stand another suggestion, steer clear of high-gloss finish. It developes enormous stiction when you try to slide wood across.

                            Saw a guy once, made his top from a dark green granite patterned HPL. I'm not certain any function was added, but it sure looked cool!

                            JPM, MDF is far and away the most common substrate for router tables, you're going down the right path. Mike steered you right, the HPL is, oh, maybe a sixteenth inch thick? applied to the top. And, in my case, to the bottom too, just to be sure the panel is a balanced one.

                            I do have one small router table that is raw MDF, with three applications of Watco danish oil then wax. I got this suggestion from Pat Warner who, in addition to writing router books and teaching, also production-lines router bases on similar "raw" MDF tops. Something to think about.

                            Couldn't tell you what the stuff costs any more. A Contractor friend gave me a couple leftover sheets years ago, I've been using it up since. That's why the suggestion to ask at a cabinet shop, if you aren't picky about pattern they might have a third or half sheet they were just going to toss anyway.



                            • #15
                              I've owned 1/2 dozen different router table tops of different sizes and materials.
                              I'll never buy another unless it's made of Phenolic. The difference can not be told, it's an experience. But for a narrow/short table saw wing, I still use multi layer MDF laminated. That is until I find a Phenolic one I like.
                              John E. Adams<br /><a href=\"\" target=\"_blank\"></a>