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TS blades vs Radial Arm

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  • TS blades vs Radial Arm

    I read a lot of blade packages, and most seem to discourage use on a radial arm saw. Now that I have both a table saw and a radial arm as well as a miter saw (all 10"), I'd like the blades to be interchangeable. What makes them not, and what makes them so? What should I be looking for? I'm looking in the 50-60 carbide tooth (or more) range.

    Thanks for any help, Curt

  • #2
    Curt- Most manufactures recommend different blades for radials because of the rake angles of the blade teeth. A radial arm can grab the wood and come at you very fast. So They recommend blades with negative angles to help prevent this from happening. A table saw and a chop saw won't do this because they don't have a sliding carriage. A radial naturally wants to come at you, a tablesaw wants to throw the wood back at you and a chop will send it flying. Having said all that I have a Freud lu8411 combo blade on my ras and tablesaw with no problems. [img]smile.gif[/img]
    - Kris

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    • #3
      the biggest problem i have found with radial arm saws is the difficulty getting and keeping the blade true. table saws are less of a hastle on this note and in all honesty i havent found much that i can not do with my table or miter saw.
      \"A SHIP OF WAR IS THE BEST AMBASSADOR\"<br /><br />OLIVER CROMWELL

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      • #4
        Space- I have an old sears and it stays in adjustment. if the saw is set up correctly,I don't see why it shouldn't stay in adjustment. As for the tablesaw try crosscutting a long piece of wood and try dadoing with the mitresaw. I have a tablesaw and I use it for ripping . The well equipped shop will have both ! [img]smile.gif[/img]
        - Kris

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        • #5
          I have an older Rockwell-Delta 10" turret-arm RAS which holds alignment from year to year. I use rip and combo blades interchangeably between the TS and the RAS. In theory, a negative hook blade is preferred for the RAS to reduce the tendency to climb or self-feed. Usually, I find the best solutin to that problem is close attention and a steady moderate rate of crosscut. Wet wood poses a particularly increased risk of the blade wanting to climb (2 by stock is often bad). The combination of a TS and the RAS is nice to have.

          Mike Narges

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          • #6
            Mike- I could not have said it better! I use a combo blade(Freud lu8411)on both machines. I have not found a blade that crosscuts or rips any better .
            - Kris

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            • #7
              Well, I'd just put a good combination blade in the RAS and wish it well---after all, you don't want to have to be swapping blades between the RAS and your table saw

              I had a RAS in the '70s, and don't remember there being negative tooth angles----I think they were all the same---if you can find one that cuts down on climbing--great, but sharpness and rate of feed still have a lot to do with it.

              To those who don't have to adjust your RAS alignment, you must have magic fingers---had to check mine almost weekly---or any time I made an angle cut by moving the arm. No big deal--you just got to know your saw very well
              Dave

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              • #8
                I just purchased a RS1100 and have not had any problems with it holding alingment. I sure like the versatility of thr RAS. With a molding head and good cutters I can do just about anything.

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