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  • Glue and pressure treated 2x4's

    Hello forum...

    I'm building gates for my deck (to keep the youngster away from the pool). I've decided to try my hand at a more complicated joint for the 2x4's that make up the perimeter of each gate panel. Instead of simply toenailing the pieces together ("toe screwing" actually), I am going to make a modified mortise and tenon joint where the tenon on the rails go completely through the mating stile. Because they form a perimeter, the tenon will also be exposed at the bottom of stile. There might be a name for it, but I don't know what it is.

    I plan to glue them together, then run some pins through the joints as well.

    Any suggestions on water proof glue that works well with pressure treated pine? Will be stained after assembled. Thanks.


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  • #2
    Since polyurathane glue requires moisture to cure and once cured is completly waterproof that would be my choice ... gorilla glue

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    • #3
      Gorila glue would also be my choice. It has great holding power also. It can be rather messy to work with and you definately don't want to get it on your hands, wear nitrile or vinyl gloves. Also, as it dries it expands some so you should plan on clamping the joints to keep them good and tight.
      Teach your kids about taxes..........eat 30 percent of their ice cream.

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      • #4
        Thanks badger and W..

        I must be on the right path, as I bought a bottle of Gorilla glue last week in anticipation of using it for this - then thought to pose the question to the forum.

        Just finished making all the cuts tonight (on my TS3650, thank you very much) and dry fitted them. Need a little sanding for a couple of the more snug joints, but hope to do glue up by this weekend.

        Cheers.

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        • #5
          No pictures ... it didn't happen! Try to post some when your done

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          • #6
            Pressure treated lumber is very, very moist. It will shrink. Your joints should be snug now because they will not be snug 1 year from now.
            www.TheWoodCellar.com

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            • #7
              Glad this subject came up. I plan to make about 150 large ballisters for a deck project very soon. If I use gorilla glue on treated lumber then leave it glued for several days before I turn it to size, will it hold well enough to withstand lathe work.
              Work hard, Play hard, Sleep easy.

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              • #8
                Gorilla glue reaches max strength in 24 hrs but requires a glue surface moisture content of 10-20%. If your PT is 'fresh' the mosture content maybe too high for the glue to absorb into the cell structure of the bonded pieces which may result in joint failure. You may end up with some strange looking turnings because the green colour dissipates as you get deeper into the wood. A shallow cut will be green but a deeper groove will be more natural pine in colour

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                • #9
                  I have used liquid nails construction glue on wet, pressure treated pine with good results.

                  [ 05-26-2005, 08:28 AM: Message edited by: Desmo888 ]

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                  • #10
                    I hope you've got time left to test another material, in addition to Gorilla Glue: DAP Weldwood Plastic Resin glue (available at ACE hardware stores). I've used it in almost all my outdoor projects (and many indoors) for at least the last 25 years, and it has never once failed. 20 years ago I built an outdoor pond water lily planter of T&G white cedar, constructed with only dowls and Weldwood. This year I have to replace it, but only because the wood is rotting—the dowls and joints and glue are still in perfect shape. I've just finished my first bottle of Gorilla Glue, and hate the foam-out. I also just tested a number of glues, including Gorilla Glue, on Techwood T&G glued to pressure treated 2x4s. I roughened up the bottom of the Techwood, first, then glued and clamped using: Gorilla Glue, Weldwood, Liquid Nails, Elmers Outdoor Glue, and TiteBond liquid nails. After a day, I broke each piece of Techwood loose from the wood with a hammer. The Weldwood was by far the strongest in adhesion. The container for the Weldwood glue (it's a powder that you mix with water) says "Ideal for interior wood applications", but that doesn't mean it's for indoors only. In fact, the above tests I was running were for a cover for our family grave site, at the very rainy Oregon coast (picture below).

                    Nolo illigitamati carborundum

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                    • #11
                      DAP used to make a glue strictly for pressure treated wood. Haven't seen it for a while now. But liquid nails and one other that I can not recall does make one for decks and such, pressure treated lumber.
                      \"A SHIP OF WAR IS THE BEST AMBASSADOR\"<br /><br />OLIVER CROMWELL

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                      • #12
                        I use Gorilla glue or Elmer's polyurethane glue on all types of wood. Pressure-treated, cedar, teak, ipe, redwood, oak, hickory, etc. It works great.

                        On freshly purchased pressure-treated (wolmanized) lumber with a lot of moisture in it, I use an 80 grit sandpaper on the joint first (sanding across the grain) to give it a "tooth" to accept the glue into the pores easier. Works great!

                        [ 06-25-2005, 09:00 AM: Message edited by: CARPENTERDON ]
                        Dimensional Carpentry & Custom Woodworking
                        Historic Renovations, Restoration, & Custom Log Homes


                        I Beat The Competition Hammersdown!

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