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New guy on a table saw.

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  • New guy on a table saw.

    Yep, another one. I'll probably have lots of questions, but think I am a quik learner. One thing I can't find any info on is table saw blade hight. I know that on the circ saw you should set it to just deeper than the wood you are cutting, but does this apply to the TS? I wonder because if I cut with the blade low, it seems to look like it is going to kick back easier. It hasn't yet, but before it does, I figured I would ask the experts. Thanks

  • #2
    Certainly not an expert, but yes, you only want it as high as it needs to be to clear the wood. Maybe a 1/4" or so higher.

    Excellent resource (I might as well be first [img]smile.gif[/img] ): "The Table Saw Book" by Kelly Mehler. I got it from Amazon used (like new) for $9 and it was the best $9 I ever spent.

    While you're waiting, use the guard, wear the safety glasses, and a dusk mask is a good plan.

    What kind of saw did you get?


    • #3
      As the saw blade rotates, the area between the teeth, the gullet, should extend fully above the top of the work peice. This allows any accumulated wood fiber to be thrown out and reduces friction.

      Depending on the type of blade you are using, this may be 1/4 inch or more.

      With the splitter and blade guard installed properly, it is safe to run the blade at any height you decide gives you the "best" cut.

      [ 12-08-2003, 09:40 AM: Message edited by: Desmo888 ]


      • #4
        I got the 3650. Love it. Been cuttin wood like a Beaver. Trying to get used to it. Always used a piece of angle iron, 2 clamps, and a circ saw to cut stuff. It works but not as good.

        Bought a house 3 years ago and did the wood floors with the Dewalt cordless circ saw, the whole time I wished I had a table saw. So then my buddy let me use his mitre saw to do the moulding and I was like, what am I thinking with this cordless saw? So I bought a Radial arm saw because I thought it would be versitile for what I needed to do, but found that it was to manuverable and the head and arm and blade all have to be adjusted 5 different ways endlessly. So my buddy with the mitre saw told me to get a table saw and showed me that I can mitre, bevel, rip, cross and every other kind of cut that I can do on the table saw, so I headed to HD and saw the 3650 with the herculift and that did it for me. The Herculift is an awesome option. Plus I already have a Ridgid wet/dry vac with the extended hose that fit right in the saw dust collector. The Radial saw needed an optional part for dust collection.

        Anyway, I'm not sure you needed to know my life story. I guess I am telling you so I can hear your thoughts on my decision.
        Thanks for the help


        • #5
          Without getting into an arguement about whether or not you should be using a blade guard, I will say that regardless, for safety, you should only expose the minimum amount of blade necessary----1/4" may be too much, but better than fully up. I generally just use 1/8".

          I second Kelly Mehler's really good book. After I saw him at a wood show, I e-mailed him about this issue and he confirmed that the lower blade not only performs well, but is inherrently safer----reason---if your hand ever slips and contacts the blade, the worst you'll get is a bad cut---not a missing finger.

          And, some may argue about the quality of cut, which some claim is better with the blade fully raised. Well---a couple of things. First a radial arm saw only cuts just below the bottom of the wood and doesn't do any harm. Second, as to smoothness---well that's what a jointer or sandpaper is made for. Have fun with the saw.


          • #6
            When I was starting out, I found "The Table Saw Book" by Richard J. de Cristoforo. I really liked that book as well.