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bob, do you ever have problems with the wood your cutting get cought in the opening for the blade gaurd? what it the size of that opening? Really like the design.
Henry, I am guessing you are referring to the photos where I have the stock throat plate installed on the TS. Yes, it can be a problem. I usually don't use the stock plate but one of my ZCIs which you can a see in the tray on the left of the TS below the wing.
"It's a table saw, do you know where your fingers are?" Bob D. 2006
Bob, I'm sorry for not being clear about the question. The outfeed table that you attached to the table saw has a cut out for the blade gaurd so you can attach it to your saw. Have you had any problems with that opening for the blade gaurd catching a board while ripping stock? thanks
No, to date I have not had a problem. I have the outfeed table positioned just slightly below the TS table height by about 1//16" or less. The leading edge of the outfeed table, that is the edge closest to the TS, is rounded over also. The depth front to back of the opening for the blade guard/splitter is about 4.5" (guessing here, I am not in the shop to measure it right now). For a piece to sag or drop down and catch on the outfeed table it would have to be pretty flimsily I think. I've made plenty of cuts where the offcut piece was less than the width of that opening, and none have been caught or jammed as yet. It could happen of course, I could win the Power Ball Lottery too, but it doesn't seem too likely.
It was something I considered and I kept the opening as small as possible without interfering with the guard and splitter over its normal operating range. That's why the right edge of the opening is cut on a 45. As the motor and blade swing up to the right when adjusting the bevel angle, the guard of course moves with them.
Edit 3/18/06: I just re-read my response above and wanted to add that the open space to the left of the blade guard/splitter is needed to be able to remove and install the guard. When you loosen the thumbscrew on the guard to remove it you have to slide the guard to the left (as viewed from the front of the TS) off the post a couple inches, that's why that opening is there.
Sort of. It's a sloped bottom the pitches from the front down to the rear. To the rear leg gusset I added a piece of hardboard to close in an area big enough to accept a 4" closet flange which I used as my connector to my DC hose. The sides were also closed in using hardboard. The sloped (about 40 deg) bottom brings all the sawdust to the rear. I have not as yet closed in the back of the saw cabinet where the belt and blade guard are as some have done. I will probably work on that next. I have three tools that are serviced by that one dust hose which drops down in the center of the shop (no hoses on the floor for me, too much of a trip hazard), the TS-3650, a DW-735 Planer, and the Delta X5 6" Jointer. I unplug the hose and connect to whichever tool I am using, and I drag it over to the BS when needed. PITA but that's what I got for now.
I just got a new TS3650 and find the DC setup to be a PITA. Some detail pics of your setup would be great!
The land of the free
Because of the brave
I have a new 3650 saw and I would like to build your outfeed table. I'm also impressed with the MuleCab router table and would like to add that as well.
After sifting through all your posts and pics, I'm still not clear how you installed the 3" flatbar between the right wing and your MuleCab router table.
Did you have to machine holes in the right edge of the right wing to attach the router table and flatbar with bolts like the left side?
I like this design since it moves with the table. Did you consider mounting the support bars to the sheet metal base of the table, instead of between the table and the wings? Did you, or do you, see a problem doing it that way? I would like to avoid having to take off the wings, plus I don't have a supply of aluminum so I would probaby need to use angle iron or something.
I looked at attaching a couple pieces of angle to the cabinet (sheet metal) under the table top, but the problem with the supports being in that close to the motor on the right (as viewed from the front of the saw) is that it will interfere with tilting the motor. It would also lead to problems when turning the blade tilt hand wheel, there is barely enough hand clearance as it is, placing anything else in there would just lead to skinned knuckles or frustration.
I also thought about fabricating a couple brackets that would mount to the back of the saw cabinet, and I went as far as to make them and try them out, but again ran into interference problems with the motor.
Removing the left hand wing is not that difficult. If you make use of the opening in the table top and use a couple clamps and 2x4s, you can support the wing from above.
Having the outfeed table be mobile with the saw and not require additional casters was another item I wanted. With the design I came up with the legs fold up underneath the outfeed table and the table folds down clearing the floor by about 8". When the table is folded down it does not project out the back much more than the motor, maybe 3". the width of the fixed portion of the outfeed was selected to allow this and take up as little room as possible for storage. I didn't want to have to completely remove the table and stow it somewhere in the shop, when I need the extra floor space I just fold it down in less than a minute.
You could use a ooiece of steel flatbar if that is easier to come by, but you should coat it so as to avoid rusting. I'd bet that aluminum flatbar is easier to find in your area than you think, check the Yellow Pages or stop by a machine shop and ask them for sources if they don't have any.