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  • Re: TS-3650 Assembly Tips

    The lock nuts on the long bolts that attach the herc-u-lift to the leg assembly (one in each corner) are the ones that get tightened only until the threads show. All the rest are tightened as you normally would. If properly assembled, the saw should sit solidly on the floor (adjust the levelers on each leg), until you step down and raise it with the herc-u-lift. It should then roll, but is not particularly wobbly.
    All other bolts/nuts should be firmly tightened.

    Go
    Practicing at practical wood working

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    • Re: TS-3650 Assembly Tips

      do these tips also apply to the 3660 or is there a thread for the 3660?

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      • Re: TS-3650 Assembly Tips

        To the best of my knowledge, all the tips here apply also to the 3660. Their are few differences except for the cosmetics, and the fact that the 3660 comes in one box, and the 3650 came in two boxes (box #2 only had the rails in it.)

        If you have the 3660, you can disregard any references to the "bad" arbor. That was corrected prior to the 3660.

        Go
        Practicing at practical wood working

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        • Re: TS-3650 Assembly Tips

          hey gang

          i just got a ts3660 for my birthday from ny sweet wife. ive got it together but still have some adjusting and fine tuning to do. i already am thinking of building a crosscut sled like Davet built. i have questions about the sled before i build it. i also have to buy a new blade or 2 and getting a zero clearance blade. does anyone have a recommendation for a zci?
          ps. i read about rust free and t9 on here . the rust free worked great oon my driill press, that i had neglected. thanks, you guys know what youre talking about. kudos to the ridgid forum participants!!!!!!!!!!!!!

          Comment


          • Re: TS-3650 Assembly Tips

            I bought a slightly used TS3650 a couple days ago. This thing was just slapped together by the previous owner so I took it apart and started over. One thing that I noticed that I havent seen mentioned yet was the bolts for the fence rails. When I got the saw, the miter gauge hit the rear rail at the left miter slot, no problem on the right slot. I took the rear rail off and remounted it and could not get it low enough to clear the bottom of the slot. I thought I would have to file out the hole in the table in order to get the fence lower but really did not want to do this. I took the rail off again and looked closer at the bolts, the bolt closest to the left slot would not slide all the way to the top of the track like the other bolts would. This difference was less than 1/16" but it was enough to hold the rail up in front of the miter slot. I took the bolts out of the rail and found that if I turned them 90* it would make a difference in how they fit in the rail. After turning the one offending bolt, the rail went on and cleared the miter slot no problem.

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            • Re: TS-3650 Assembly Tips - Kudos!

              Well, I pulled the trigger on purchasing a new TS3660. Free delivery and the 12-month same as cash deal. It arrived today at 3:45pm. Had the box open and started laying out the parts at 4pm. Finished assembly at 11pm (about 1 hour's worth of break time in there). So call it 6 hours assembly time.

              Read this thread. Read it again. Pre-printed a copy of the manual to read a few times. And did the attach Herc-U-Lift upside down / wings after flipping upright tricks. That worked great. One note on the flipover, leave off either the miter gauge hanger or the fence hangers before flipping (and the height/bevel knobs). The left and right sides (no wings on yet) are the cleanest for the flip over operation, nothing sticks out except the hanger brackets, to get banged up during the maneuver.

              Minimal adjustments, just a smidge more than 0.0005" blade-to-left-miter slot. Got the splitter adjusted (what a piece of work that thing is). Got the fence heeled out a little less than 1/32 from the blade at the back. Got the fence perpendicular to the table. Got the 0 and 45 stops set. Got the pulley's aligned and belt tensioned. Table degreased (used Simple Green and lots of paper towels) and waxed (Johnson's paste wax).

              Pretty much everything but cut wood with it! Too late, want to be a good neighbor. So I'll wait until 6:01am Sunday morning to do a rip cut...

              Frankly, I think I only found one typo in the assembly instructions (called for 15 nuts while assembling legs and panels when in fact you need 16). And I think the omission about tightening the motor mount is still there. And other than one mis-cue putting in some bolts upside down on the lift, it all went together quite well.
              Last edited by rwyoung; 08-10-2008, 12:28 AM.

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              • Re: TS-3650 Assembly Tips - Kudos!

                Originally posted by rwyoung View Post
                Well, I pulled the trigger on purchasing a new TS3660. Free delivery and the 12-month same as cash deal. It arrived today at 3:45pm. Had the box open and started laying out the parts at 4pm. Finished assembly at 11pm (about 1 hour's worth of break time in there). So call it 6 hours assembly time.

                Read this thread. Read it again. Pre-printed a copy of the manual to read a few times. And did the attach Herc-U-Lift upside down / wings after flipping upright tricks. That worked great. One note on the flipover, leave off either the miter gauge hanger or the fence hangers before flipping (and the height/bevel knobs). The left and right sides (no wings on yet) are the cleanest for the flip over operation, nothing sticks out except the hanger brackets, to get banged up during the maneuver.

                Minimal adjustments, just a smidge more than 0.0005" blade-to-left-miter slot. Got the splitter adjusted (what a piece of work that thing is). Got the fence heeled out a little less than 1/32 from the blade at the back. Got the fence perpendicular to the table. Got the 0 and 45 stops set. Got the pulley's aligned and belt tensioned. Table degreased (used Simple Green and lots of paper towels) and waxed (Johnson's paste wax).

                Pretty much everything but cut wood with it! Too late, want to be a good neighbor. So I'll wait until 6:01am Sunday morning to do a rip cut...

                Frankly, I think I only found one typo in the assembly instructions (called for 15 nuts while assembling legs and panels when in fact you need 16). And I think the omission about tightening the motor mount is still there. And other than one mis-cue putting in some bolts upside down on the lift, it all went together quite well.
                It's 9AM here so it's past 6AM in your neck of the woods, have you made good on pushing your first piece of wood through the saw yet??

                Glad the Assembly Tips provided by everyone here has helped you and others, and thanks for adding your own tips to the list.
                ---------------
                Light is faster than sound. That's why some people seem really bright until you hear them speak.
                ---------------
                “If I had my life to live over again, I'd be a plumber.” - Albert Einstein
                ---------
                "Its a table saw.... Do you know where your fingers are?"
                ---------
                sigpic http://www.helmetstohardhats.com/

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                • Re: TS-3650 Assembly Tips

                  RIIIPPPPP!

                  Wow, that splitter is a complete piece of crap! I thought I had it aligned but turns out the sheet metal is a bit warped. Binds like crazy with the stock thin kerf Ridgid T40 blade. That took a few more adjustements with the BFM to minimize catching on the spliter.

                  I was pretty impressed with the stock blade. Did a reasonably nice job in some 2x4 (soft pine, not much of a challenge, I know).

                  Made a quick push stick (the old 7th grade shop kind) but I'm going to make a nicer long, triangular one ASAP. Did a few test rabbets and the skinny stick (as we all know) just doesn't give enough downward force so the rabbet depth/width is a little variable!

                  Are there any after market splitter/blade guards that fit the TS3660 that aren't such pices of crap? Since I'll be making ZTC plates soon I could incorporate the splitter on them and hack away some clearance on the stock one. Then I could keep the blade guard and pawls.

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                  • Re: TS-3650 Assembly Tips

                    line up the bottom of the splitter and bend the top over with your hand, then it works great.

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                    • Re: TS-3650 Assembly Tips

                      Did that and it was better but still drags. The stock blade is a thin kerf. Put on a full kerf and it is much better. Aligned the splitter to the right side since the fence is on the right.

                      Also a light buffing of wax on the splitter seems to help.

                      Short answer is that combination splitter/pawl/blade guard is pretty crummy. Might look into fabricating a bracket to hang the guard from above to take some of the weight off the splitter sheet metal. That stuff is just way to bendy for my taste.

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                      • Re: TS-3650 Assembly Tips

                        To get my splitter into alignment vertically, I took it off and put it on the anvil. Using an engineer's square and a good mallet, I pounded the thing into vertical 90* as measured off the lip where the three screws go. The pawls were still attached, because I didn't feel like going through the trouble of finding the springs that were going to fly off if I tried to take the pawls off. I taped them out of the way. Eventually, I got it verticle. To align the splitter to the blade, I used two long straight-edges. One on each side of the blade. I then carefully attached the splitter with the three bolts, being patient and careful to maintain alignment. It's hard to get the bolts on with the straight-edge hanging above them, but it's possible. For the cost of the saw and how good it is, I feel the work I did to get the splitter aligned was well worth it. It now works perfectly, and I can remove and re-attach it without losing my alignment.
                        I put it all back together better than before. There\'s lots of leftover parts.

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                        • Re: TS-3650 Assembly Tips

                          Ditto what Sandy did. Hopefully, with the problems people have had with the splitter, maybe "they" (Ridgid, are you listening?) will upgrade the steel used in the splitter main body as well as put a forged base on it for the 3670. I think the splitter has caused more aggravation than any other feature on the saw. Its really a shame as they have a good feature as to easy removal and re-install, but the flimsiness causes most people to just remove it, exposing them to quite a bit of hazard. If I was in business marketing a product, I would try my best to encourage safe usage, not aggravate my customers into doing unsafe practices, thus reducing my consumer base.

                          Go
                          Practicing at practical wood working

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                          • Re: TS-3650 Assembly Tips

                            Wow, I did not have any of the problems you folks are laying out here. I just lined it up per the manual and was in pretty good shape. I did have toplumb it up a tad but it was only out one or two degrees and I could feel and see it hang when cutting thicker stock (>2").

                            SharkGuard supposedly has a model to fit the RIDGID 3650 now.

                            Penn State Industries has an overarm deisgn with dust collection that looks decent but I have only seen (once) and never used one so can't really comment on their quality.

                            You can see it here:
                            Last edited by Bob D.; 08-12-2008, 06:44 PM. Reason: added link to PSI
                            ---------------
                            Light is faster than sound. That's why some people seem really bright until you hear them speak.
                            ---------------
                            “If I had my life to live over again, I'd be a plumber.” - Albert Einstein
                            ---------
                            "Its a table saw.... Do you know where your fingers are?"
                            ---------
                            sigpic http://www.helmetstohardhats.com/

                            Comment


                            • Re: TS-3650 Assembly Tips

                              Shark Guard does have a TS3650 model (checked the other day). Lee's comment was that several are in place on 3650's but none yet on 3660's. However it should fit.

                              So far the tweak for mine was three fold. First flatten it (manual manipulation, no hammer and anvil for me darn it) then switch to a full kerf blade and align with the fence side. Finally a light waxing and now stuff seems to slip past. Thickest so far is a 2x4 (so 1 3/4" I suppose).

                              I think the worst part of it is when the dust cover is raised to adjust blade height, it makes quite a lever-arm and the assembly really flops around. That might tend to bend it out of alignment.

                              Comment


                              • Re: TS-3650 Assembly Tips

                                Just finished "constructing" a TS3660. Though long and tedious, it was fairly straightforward, other than for the well-documented errata in the manual. I still have the final adjustments to make. Some quick observations:
                                • The table is a bit out of flat with the wings installed, maybe 1/32" in the middle. The wings are as aligned as I can get them. I think this is going to work for me given what I'll probably be doing with it.
                                • The motor needed to be adjusted well back in its mounts (i.e. pulled back about 1+ inches from its initial "in as far as it goes" position), to take the slack out of the belt. I don't know if that means I got a bigger belt than I should, or that this is normal for all TS3660s.
                                • The 7 1/8 " alignment for the fence is a cruel joke. I basically ignored that and lined up the front fence rail using the blade and a combo square until everything jibed (actual measurement from blade to fence; readout on the scale; positioning of rail).
                                Easily the most difficult installation was the lift mechanism. I did it after righting the saw (some have said that they installed the HercuLift while the saw was still upside-down). Here are some tips:
                                • When constructing the top and bottom sections, tighten the bolts just enough so they're sturdy, but with enough play in them to make adjustments. You may need this play when it comes time to attach them to the legs.
                                • On the top section (the one with the kick plate and the release lever), DO NOT install the casters until you have placed this section under the saw. You won't be able to fit the assembly between the legs with the casters on.
                                • The lock nuts on the bolts that attach to the leg brackets should be tightened only until the end of the bolt is flush with the nut. These bolts MUST have sufficient play to pivot freely.
                                • After installing the bottom section, tighten the four bolts that hold the various rods together.
                                • Install the top section under the saw; attach the casters; attach the assembly to the legs tightening lock nuts only until flush with end of bolt (as above); tighten all the other bolts; reposition the U-bolt so it lines up with the catch on the release lever.
                                Sorry if I repeated anything in other posts.
                                Good luck.

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