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TS-3650 Assembly Tips

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  • #61
    New member....

    Hello Guys....

    After reading most of the threads on this forum, concerning the TS3650, I had to join. I had the same annoying problems. The blade still isn't perfectly square, but close. I feel there should be a much better design for one of the most important parameters of the saw.

    I'm also looking to add a router table to the saw. Thanks for the postings, concerning this subject. Here again, RIDGID, would have another sale item, if they had this as an accessory.

    Capt. Hank

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    • #62
      Pals

      I recently picked up a set of PALS from WoodCraft (think it was the Craftsman set) and they worked wonders and aligning the blade to the miter slot. If you have problems with alignment, and don't like the method offered out of the box I'd recommend them...

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      • #63
        Burning rubber

        Just purchased TS3560 and assembled it.

        The one tip I would recommend is after tensioning the belt make sure the belt is resting on both pulley's. I started mine up for a intial test and started smelling rubber I immediatedly shut the saw off, and low and behold the belt was riding the arbor shaft on the saw assembly,which caused a misalignment. The misaligmnet resulted in the belt scraping the belt shroud,resulting in some burned rubber. The rubber melted onto the belt pulley. Luckly I stoped it quick enough So double check this before starting making sure belt is on both pulley's and parrell.

        Any suggestions on getting the rubber off the pulley, I was thing mineral spirits?

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        • #64
          I'm In

          OK guys - add me to the list of TS3650 owners! I came home with one Christmas Eve. Got it assembled and made a few test cuts, but haven't made anything yet. Granddaughter's birthday is in 2 weeks, though...

          Here's my 2 bits on the assembly of this saw:

          (1) First of all, this forum is great. Product performance was important to me as I considered various table saws to purchase, but customer support is also important. I'm not aware of any other line of power tools that has the kind of online support that Rigid has here.

          (2) I didn't keep track of exactly how long it took me to put the saw together, but I'd estimate around 6 hours. Time well spent, bonding with my new tool. (Yes, I bond with machinery. My truck has 260,000 miles on it. It's my horse, ya know. I can't just get rid of him...)

          (3) The TS3650 manual delivered in the box was NOT the same as the online manual. The online manual clarified a couple things that were not so clear in the delivered manual. The HercuLift section is lacking in both manuals, though.

          (4) The "wobbly leg" syndrome I read about in various Rigid forum posts concerned me, and it was one of the issues I had to get past to purchase this saw. I was pleased to find out wobbly legs are a NON issue as far as the delivered saw is concerned. Yes, the saws in stores wobble quite a bit, but every one I looked at had loose and/or missing bolts. However, there were reports that even properly assembled saws were still wobbly, so it was a concern. I can now testify that this saw I have is as solid as I'd expect any table saw to be. There is something I learned, though, which may also explain why floor models in stores are wobbly: with the leveling feet on the legs adjusted all the way up, when I put the HercuLift in the retracted position, the wheels did not go high enough. They still made contact with the floor, and that made the saw unstable. After adjusting the leveling feet down about a half an inch, the HercuLift wheels are now raised high enough and the saw sits solid as a rock. So a slight adjustment of the leveling feet (1/2") made the difference between a wobbly or stable saw. Sounds like a good note to put in the manual (and I also think HD stores should address this apparent wobbly leg issue with their display saws).

          (5) Blade alignment:
          Blade to miter gauge alignment: < 0.008" (measured with a combination square and machinist feeler gauges)
          Blade to rip fence alignment: < 1/64"(?) (measured with various rulers)
          I believe this is an acceptable tolerance (0.015" according to manual). Actually, I'm having a difficult time getting a good measurement on blade alignment. I plan to make a jig to mount my dial measuring indicator on so's I can get a better measurement.

          - djb
          sigpic

          A Democracy is 2 wolves and 1 sheep voting on what to have for lunch.

          Restore the Republic.

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          • #65
            Making a Zero-Clearance Insert

            Since this question comes up so often, here's an online
            video on making your own from the ShopNotes website.

            Making a Zero-Clearance Insert

            There are plenty of other web sites, books, etc. with similar
            information, this is just one source to help those searching.
            "It's a table saw, do you know where your fingers are?" Bob D. 2006

            https://www.youtube.com/user/PowerToolInstitute

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            • #66
              Re: TS-3650 Assembly Tips

              When making your own ZCI how important is it that they sit flush with the table? Is it accepatable for them to be slightly lower that the table?

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              • #67
                Re: TS-3650 Assembly Tips

                The ZCI should be flat to the table. Having it lower could result in pieces "sticking" at the end, where it can catch on the table. Also, it will result in cuts being a smidge off since the surface isn't level; the blade end of the workpiece will dip down.
                I put it all back together better than before. There\'s lots of leftover parts.

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                • #68
                  Re: TS-3650 Assembly Tips

                  I'm having a problem with the Hercu-lift. It's assembled properly. I've gone over the manual, the repair manual, and the online PDF, and they all indicate it's assembled correctly. The problem is that when I go to attach it to the legs of the saw, the holes from the hercu-lift parts are about 3/4" wider than the leg holes. They just don't line up.

                  I can take a picture if need be, but this is pretty straight forward. The Hercu-lift bars are too wide to be mounted to my saw base. Suggestions? Ideas?

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                  • #69
                    Re: TS-3650 Assembly Tips

                    I remember having that problem when I setup my saw. As memory serves (caveat: my memory never serves me well), I had the front-back tubes upside down, or maybe backwards. I think if you go back and look carefully, it'll make sense. Also, having the front-back tubes on the proper up or down side of the side-side tubes is important. I'm sorry, but this puter is 2 floors away from the saw...and not only does my memory fail, but I'm a lazy git as well. Next time I'm down there (later this evening), I'll take a peek at the herculift and post a better suggestion!!!
                    I put it all back together better than before. There\'s lots of leftover parts.

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                    • #70
                      Re: TS-3650 Assembly Tips

                      I just check my cast iron table for flatness and it's off about .006 running from the right front to the left rear. I'm bringing it back to HD and may get another brand.

                      This should be the first thing that is checked once you have your saw on the legs.


                      Lance
                      You know, Hobbes, some days even my lucky rocketship underpants don't help.

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                      • #71
                        Re: TS-3650 Assembly Tips

                        Dang, .006" ...is that out of tolerance for a wood cutting saw table?

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                        • #72
                          Re: TS-3650 Assembly Tips

                          Originally posted by Davet View Post
                          Dang, .006" ...is that out of tolerance for a wood cutting saw table?
                          If it's not, I'd be happy to hear. Believe me. I dread having to lug this back to HD.

                          Think I'll xpost to see what others have to say.


                          Lance
                          You know, Hobbes, some days even my lucky rocketship underpants don't help.

                          Comment


                          • #73
                            Re: TS-3650 Assembly Tips

                            Are you sure that your straight edge is dead true? If there's a little high spot (in table) you should be able to deal with it by sanding or grinding it flat. If there's a dip and it's only 0.006 and the rest of the saw seems fine, I would try it out for a week or so before thinking of returning it. Please remember this not a $2000 cabinet saw. It will be interesting to see what others post.

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                            • #74
                              Re: TS-3650 Assembly Tips

                              .006" may be out for a machine mill, but is to me plenty good for a woodworking saw table.

                              Are you sure it's .006" or is it .060" ?

                              Comment


                              • #75
                                Re: TS-3650 Assembly Tips

                                Originally posted by Davet View Post
                                .006" may be out for a machine mill, but is to me plenty good for a woodworking saw table.

                                Are you sure it's .006" or is it .060" ?
                                err...yeah .060 Sorry.

                                Does that make a difference?

                                Also, did a quick check a minute ago and it seems to be closer to .080 now. I checked it in the morning when the table was cold(er).
                                Last edited by Hooligan; 03-16-2007, 09:29 PM.
                                You know, Hobbes, some days even my lucky rocketship underpants don't help.

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