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TS-3650 Assembly Tips

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  • Re: TS-3650 Assembly Tips

    Hello Everyone,

    I'm new to the forum and just bought my new ts3650.

    Thanks to you kind folks and all of the post, I was able to get my saw up and running in about 3 hours. By myself no less! (All of buddies chickened out when I told them how heavy the beast was)

    I think I got lucky, my blade was spot on, and I got the rails aligned on the first shot.

    I took the advice about putting the extention wings on after I righted the saw. I used my roller stands to hold it while I got those suckers up. Now, with a few coats of paste wax, this thing is smooth as silk. And I actually made my first project. A panel jig.

    I just wanted to say thanks for all of the great advice and look forward to picking all of your brains on future products. I'm a novice so much picking will ensue I'm sure.

    Thanks again!

    Comment


    • Re: TS-3650 Assembly Tips

      Hey, Lildrgnoflb -

      Welcome to the board! I hope you enjoy your new saw. I'm sure you will.

      This place is a huge help for assembly and anything else you need. Feel free to ask, and remember there is no such thing as a dumb question concerning the 3650. God knows I've asked more than my share here...

      Take care!

      Mike

      Comment


      • Re: New TS-3650 Owner

        Originally posted by JHE View Post
        Hi all !!! This is a great forum! Glad I found it. And just in time. I just purchased my 3650 Sat. Got it fully assembled Tuesday am. I didn't work on it Sat. and Sun. I had to use my tractor with the front end loader to get it off the pick-up. (Just had back surgery). The assembly went pretty well ! IMO! The Herc-U-Lift had me scratching my head, but we figured it out ( me and the dogs).
        The question I have is! Does anyone have an answer on how to protect the cast iron table? I know it's just a question of time before rust appears.
        T-9 and Rust Free this is the best stuff you can use I use it and find it the best If you have some rusty tools This will make them look like new I have used this for some time now good luck on the saw del

        The Rust Store - Rust Removal and Prevention Categories

        The Rust Store - Rust Removal and Prevention Categories

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        • Re: New TS-3650 Owner

          I am having a problem with the tilt on my 3650. I recently aligned the blade to the miter guage slots but before that never had a problem with tilting the blade. When I turn the wheel I can only get to about 10 degrees and cant crank it anymore. When I did align the blade there was 1/8 inch space between blade an opening in stock insert per instructions. Any ideas?

          Comment


          • Re: TS-3650 Assembly Tips

            First: Make sure the motor is not hitting anything and you did not leave any tools inside when loosening/tightening the trunnion bolts when aligning the blade to the miter slot.
            Second: Check the lock handle on the front of the saw under the front fence bar and above the height adjustment handwheel. It may be jamming against the table top. Crank the blade back to vertical and then reposition the handle. This is done by pushing it in (which disengages it from the lock rod) and turning it so the handle points down or down and left. The bevel lock mechanism moves in an arc as the blade tilts(left to right as you crank in more bevel) so if the handle is in the wrong position, it will jam against the top. After you get the desired bevel (tilt), lock the blade with the bevel lock. You may have to push it in and reposition it a couple times to get the lock tight. Also, make sure it is loosened before trying to bevel the blade or return it to vertical.
            Third: If the above is not the problem, unplug the saw and take out the insert around the blade. Look at the curved grooves the trunnion rides in on the front and back (looking down into the saw interior through the insert hole), A couple people have had problems with metal gouging up in the track and jamming the mechanism. Return the blade to vertical and remove any chips or burrs in the track areas. Try tilting it again to see if you get full range of bevel. If it starts gouging up metal, stop and call Ridgid.

            Please let us know what the problem was. If it was the lock handle, do not feel alone. Many of us have done the same thing. I learned it from experience and have had to relearn it occasionally as I don't do a lot of bevel cutting and the lock handle is hidden from view until you get your head below the table level.

            Go
            Last edited by Gofor; 10-26-2007, 07:09 PM.
            Practicing at practical wood working

            Comment


            • Re: TS-3650 Assembly Tips

              It appears there was metal burrs clogging it up but when I cleared it out and tried to tilt the balde again it gets to the same point and stops, about 10 degrees. It looks like the part that rides in the curved grooves is gouging up the metal and why it stops at a certain point.

              Since this wasnt a problem before would re-aligning balde to get more than 1/8 inch from the side of the insert fix the problem or do I have serious problem since the was some metal being gouged.

              I am concered because I had a very hard time getting the blade aligned to the miter slot and dont know if I can align it get the proper clearance. I really dont want to have to bring it to Ridgid for repair as its so heavy and I dont have a truck.

              By the way, thanks for the quick response.

              Comment


              • Re: TS-3650 Assembly Tips

                Well, I think I figured it out. When I aligned the blade to the miter slots I was following the method from "The Table Saw Book" by K. Mehler. In it he says to use an f-clamp clamped to the rear trunnion but I accidentally clamped it to the front and rear trunnion. By doing that I think moved the rear trunnion into a position which caused it to rub to close into the grove and once it got past a few degrees would start digging into it. I lightly tapped the rear trunnion away from the saw and now I can tilt the blade all the way to 45 degrees. The rear groove the trunnion rides in did get chewed up a little the first 1/2 inch or so, is this something I should worry about it?

                Unfortunately now I have to re-align the blade. Based on my first experience I am not looking forward to that. I know its not hard but I am very new to this hobby and have steep learning curve to overcome.
                Last edited by Pez; 10-26-2007, 08:41 PM.

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                • Re: TS-3650 Assembly Tips

                  The saga continues...

                  I thought I had it all sorted out so I adjusted the blade to the miter gauge slot and tried beveling the blade again - gets stuck in the same place.

                  I loosened all the trunnion bolts again and to see if that would let me bevel the blade - nope. Like last time I had to tap the rear section where the groove is and it worked but not as smoothly as the first time I tried it. As mentioned earlier, the first 1/2 inch or so got gouged a little. When I tried beveling the blade past the 10 degree mark you could feel the saw "jump" over the part where the gouge stops.

                  Is it possible that from the way I tried to align the blade the f-clamp bent the left side of the rear section of the trunnion just enough to cause this? I am afraid my only option at this point is to call ridgid which I can bet will mean I have to bring the saw in for repair. That is going to be very difficult.

                  Comment


                  • Re: TS-3650 Assembly Tips

                    Problem solved - went to Home Depot and exchanged it for a new one. Just in time as the 90 days were up next Saturday.

                    Lesson learned - read and re-read the instructions if anything is unclear. And if that doesnt help check out this thread.

                    Comment


                    • Re: TS-3650 Assembly Tips

                      Hi everybody. Geez what an incredible forum. I had a couple if issues if someone could address. The first was during assembly. The side cast iron wings droop about an 1/8" at the end of the wings. I believe that they just need to be shimmed but wanted to get someone's opinion on what to use to shim and how many should be used.
                      The other issue is that I can't tell how to adjust the motor to put more weight on the belt. When I start up the saw there is a loud vibration sound which goes away after about 1 second. When I place pressure on the motor putting more weight against the belt and then start it, there is no noise.
                      Any comments or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again for this awesome forum.

                      Comment


                      • Re: TS-3650 Assembly Tips

                        What a nightmare!!! If it was not for the rave reviews on performance I might take this saw back. Instructions are very in-accurate, out of order and crucial steps are missing! Where do I begin...? I looked up the newer version of the assembly instructions on the ridgid site and they are not much better.

                        Let’s check the error list:

                        1. They call components different names during different steps
                        2. It is suggested to use 2 wrenches to tighten carriage bolts
                        3. The online version at least has the labels for the bolt usage for the lift unit
                        4. Front rail instructions say to align rail to edge of table at 7 1/8 inch... picture shows 7 1/16... Ended up using 7 1/4 to get fence right.
                        5. The hardware is American threads with metric heads (wtf?) No wonder my 1/2 inch wrench was spinning on the head... Its 12mm! Love them rounded bolts!
                        6. There is NO step to tighten the motor. There is one that tells you to install but DO NOT tighten screws at this time. Then belt and guard install and no mention of motor mount bolts to be tightened. Hope you all took the initiative to do so.

                        I understand mistakes are made and corrections are needed but the date on my manual was 07/06. I think the online version could be updated just a bit. ESPECIALLY the motor mount issue. I just know in my mind someone out there go busy putting the belt on and lining up the pullies and taking it all off to install the guard then re-installing the belt and then they forgot to tighten the motor. Bad bad juju.

                        And to top it all off I call ridgid to let them know and the rep really could have cared less. She was more interested in letting me know to send in my UPC and receipt copy to get my registration done. At least the home depot manager feigned some sort of concern.

                        Anyway... my rant is done... I will try it... I have about 10 weeks left on my 90 day satisfaction guarantee. Hope it performs better the assembly process

                        Comment


                        • Re: TS-3650 Assembly Tips

                          Originally posted by Door Geek View Post
                          Hi everybody. Geez what an incredible forum. I had a couple if issues if someone could address. The first was during assembly. The side cast iron wings droop about an 1/8" at the end of the wings. I believe that they just need to be shimmed but wanted to get someone's opinion on what to use to shim and how many should be used.
                          The other issue is that I can't tell how to adjust the motor to put more weight on the belt. When I start up the saw there is a loud vibration sound which goes away after about 1 second. When I place pressure on the motor putting more weight against the belt and then start it, there is no noise.
                          Any comments or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again for this awesome forum.

                          Make sure you have the motor mounting bolts tightened down. there is no step in the assembly instructions for this.

                          Comment


                          • Re: TS-3650 Assembly Tips

                            Re motor vibration; I believe that if you raise the blade to its top limit and then drop it down slightly you can get a tight belt by loosening and then tightening the adjustment bolts. The full weight of the motor should be enough to limit if not eliminate vibration. I found that the belt guard was rattling so I put a small C-clamp across the top of the guard and that seemed to take care of it.

                            Does anyone have any suggestions for mounting an auxiliary fence to the table fence?

                            Comment


                            • Re: TS-3650 Assembly Tips

                              Merry Christmas to all,

                              This is my first forum post.

                              My experience assembling the saw has been relatively trouble-free. The differences between the supplied and online manuals is a little aggravating.

                              A dumb question and a help request:

                              * When they mention the 8 pages of manual to use as a "feeler gage" in adjusting the fence height, do they mean eight SHEETS or four double sided pages?

                              * When moving the fence from side to side, I get an annoying squeal (for lack of a better term) from the left side of where the fence mounts to the front rail. I have removed the fence and looked at the bottom of the fence and do not notice any issues (burrs, etc). The noise seems to occur for the entire length of the fence.

                              Thanks for your help.

                              George

                              Comment


                              • Re: TS-3650 Assembly Tips

                                They mean 8 sheets of paper. Goal is to get about 1/32th of an inch. Thats about .031". (8 sheets of the manual measure out to about this thckness). The key to adjusting the rails is to ensure the top of the back rail is even with or slightly below the bottom of the miter slots. If it is too high, the miter guage or any jig using the miter slot (like a cutoff sled) will hit the back rail when you move it towards the back of the saw. The second objective is to get the fence-to-table clearance about the same front to back. This will only be important if you use a jig that slides on the top of the fence. As long as the fence does not drag on the table, it should be okay.

                                As for the squeal, many of us have had to put some wax on the front rail to stop it. I believe it is caused by something on the teflon sliders as they come from the factory. I did mine once two years ago when I first assembled my saw, and have not had to do it since.

                                Hope this helps.

                                Go
                                Practicing at practical wood working

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