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  • Re: TS-3650 Assembly Tips

    I really appreciate the info I've learned on this forum. I'm considering the TS-3650, but am concerned about dust collection for this type of saw. How does it compare to the hybrid types where the moter is enclosed?
    Thanks, Travis

    Comment


    • Re: TS-3650 Assembly Tips

      With a shop-vac hooked up to the blade shroud assembly, I'd estimate it captures about 50% of the sawdust with the stock throat plate. Put in a ZCI and you'll see about 75% captured. I found that somehow I still wound up with dust under the saw when doing a lot of cutting. So I added a Dust Cutter bag ($40 from Woodcraft) and that's *really* cut it down to almost nothing underneath. I just use the vacuum port on that bag once a week or so to empty it.

      Note, that I am a naughty, naughty woodworker boy and don't use my splitter and blade guard most of the time (because I use my tablesaw top for measuring, assembly, etc). The blade guard helps dust collection via the shroud vacuum port.

      Comment


      • Re: TS-3650 Assembly Tips

        Originally posted by JGB View Post
        Does anyone have any suggestions for mounting an auxiliary fence to the table fence?
        Get these:
        http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...=fence%20clamp

        Comment


        • Re: TS-3650 Assembly Tips

          Originally posted by Wood_Junkie View Post
          Yup, got a pair for Christmas and they work fine. I think they should have padded the face side of the clamp screw though so it would not mar your fence when you tighten it down. You can easily glue something on there, cut out some circles from some 1/8" neoprene gasket material and put them on and they are much better now.
          ---------------
          Light is faster than sound. That's why some people seem really bright until you hear them speak.
          ---------------
          “If I had my life to live over again, I'd be a plumber.” - Albert Einstein
          ---------
          "Its a table saw.... Do you know where your fingers are?"
          ---------
          sigpic http://www.helmetstohardhats.com/

          Comment


          • Re: TS-3650 Assembly Tips

            i have a question...after I aligned the rail to 71/8" to the table.....I slid the fence down to the saw blade and put the fence to 1". I measured the distance to the fence to be
            1 3/16". Did I do something wrong? or do I need to adjust the front rail to 7 1/4 "ish ?
            m e l c h m a n

            Comment


            • Re: TS-3650 Assembly Tips

              Originally posted by Bob D. View Post
              I think they should have padded the face side of the clamp screw though so it would not mar your fence when you tighten it down. You can easily glue something on there, cut out some circles from some 1/8" neoprene gasket material and put them on and they are much better now.

              Liquid plastic could also work?
              Still enjoying all 10 fingers!

              Comment


              • Re: TS-3650 Assembly Tips

                Has anyone had to replace the 115v circuit breaker/reset switch on the motor? The parts list does not show it as a seperate component but as integral to the motor. I need to replace it and would like a source for the part

                Comment


                • Re: TS-3650 Assembly Tips

                  Originally posted by melchman View Post
                  i have a question...after I aligned the rail to 71/8" to the table.....I slid the fence down to the saw blade and put the fence to 1". I measured the distance to the fence to be
                  1 3/16". Did I do something wrong? or do I need to adjust the front rail to 7 1/4 "ish ?
                  First, I found on mine that the 7 1/8" measurement was accurate with a full kerf blade. It may be a holdover from past times when a Full kerf blade was supplied with the saw.
                  Second, the two clear plastic pieces on the fence front (one for right fence clearance and one for left) will need to be adjusted.
                  All that said, you will not hurt anything to slide the front fence a little either way to get everything to line up perfectly.

                  Go
                  Practicing at practical wood working

                  Comment


                  • Re: TS-3650 Assembly Tips

                    thanks for the reply....thats what I did... i slid the fence to accurately align the fence to t he right side BUT when I went to check the left.... I can not adjust the clear plastic piece enough to rest above the 1" mark. I might try and readjust the fence again.... any other suggestions please reply.
                    m e l c h m a n

                    Comment


                    • Re: TS-3650 Assembly Tips

                      As you stand in front of the saw in the normal operating position, the left side of the blade (NOT the left edge of the teeth), regardless of the blades thickness, will remain the same with respect to the front rail. Why, because the fixed flange of the arbor is to the left of the blade. When you mount a blade on the arbor you always butt the blade up to the flange which is on the left of the blade, so the left side of the blade is always the same. If the blade body thickness changes, then the right side of the blade will be slightly further away than a thin kerf blade.

                      What happens when you swap blades?

                      Think about two hypothetical blades:

                      Blade #1 - Thin Kerf
                      Tooth width = 3/32"
                      Blade width = 1/16"

                      Blade #2 'Normal' Kerf blade
                      Tooth width = 1/8"
                      Blade width = 3/32"

                      Measuring from the LEFT face of the blade body which is against the arbor flange, the left edge of the tooth is 1/64" to the left of the left blade face, the right tooth edge is 1/16" + 1/64" or 5/64" to the right of the LEFT blade face.

                      For the 1/8" or Std Kerf blade, the left tooth edge is 1/64" to the left of the left blade face, and the right tooth edge is 6/64" + 1/64 or 7/64" to the right of the left blade face.

                      So the right tooth edge ends up being 2/64 (1/32") further to the right than the thin kerf blade.

                      OK so these are not actual blade tooth widths or body thicknesses, or maybe they happen to match some blades out there. My point is that two blades with different body thicknesses and tooth widths will show greater variance on the right of the blade than to the left.



                      One of these days I'll figure out how to get my point across in a hundred words or less and not put everyone to sleep.
                      ---------------
                      Light is faster than sound. That's why some people seem really bright until you hear them speak.
                      ---------------
                      “If I had my life to live over again, I'd be a plumber.” - Albert Einstein
                      ---------
                      "Its a table saw.... Do you know where your fingers are?"
                      ---------
                      sigpic http://www.helmetstohardhats.com/

                      Comment


                      • Re: TS-3650 Assembly Tips

                        Looks like a very useful forum. I am a new TS3650 owner. Put it together last week. I have encountered only one problem that relates to aligning the riving knife assembly. With the assembly mounted on the spreader support and the assembly positioned as far right (looking from the saw front) as possible the knife is still lightly to the left (~16th of an inch) of the blade. Thus when I cut the knife pulls the piece away from the fence as the piece is pushed through the cut.
                        What am I missing? The spreader is mounted on the spreader support and pushed up against the roll pin. The riving knife assembly is mounted on the spreader support and pushed as far right as the slots in the support will allow. AIN'T no room left.
                        For the time being I removed the whole assembly so my cuts are true. I need to get this problem solved as I hate running without the blade guard.
                        Any ideas? I hope I have done something stupid that can be easily corrected.

                        Comment


                        • Re: TS-3650 Assembly Tips

                          Hi VLRice! Welcome to the forums.

                          Aligning the splitter was a nightmare for me. Now that it's correct, I find myself taking it off and putting it back on often, and it stays in it's proper alignment. It's a good splitter design for the most part, but it's problematic to setup the first time.

                          What I did was use a really straight edge on either side of the blade. I have a 4' level and a straight long square. I put the splitter in the mounts and attempted to line it up. Well, I ended up having to bang on it a bit at the metal vise to get it straight back and forth and up and down. Took a bit of work to get it straight in all directions, but it's definitely worth it. To get the vertical alignment, I used a machinists' square. Just keep working at it. Do the back and forth (horizontal) alignment first. It may take a bit of banging to get it straight. Put it on, check alignment, then take it off and back to the vise. I had to keep doing that till it was right on. It took me the better part of a Saturday to get it set. The vertical alignment then took probably about an hour. One other tip is to tape the anti-kickback pawls up while you're doing the alignment, and DISCONNECT THE POWER! The anti-kickback teeth kept getting stuck in the level and made it a nightmare until I discovered the varied and wonderful uses of blue painter's tape.
                          I put it all back together better than before. There\'s lots of leftover parts.

                          Comment


                          • Re: TS-3650 Assembly Tips

                            The hex head (allen wrench) screw on the shaft that the assembly slides onto is the key. Put the splitter on the shaft and tighten it down. Loosen the set screw and you can move the shaft left or right as needed. This info is not included in the manual. I think it takes a #4 metric allen wrench, but may be a 5. SAE won't work. It will round it out.

                            I had the same situation with mine.

                            Go
                            Practicing at practical wood working

                            Comment


                            • Re: TS-3650 Assembly Tips

                              AH HA! The set screw on the shaft was the ticket. I didn't see this in the manual so i didn't go looking. Thanks a bunch.
                              Vic

                              Comment


                              • Re: TS-3650 Assembly Tips

                                Got my TS setup today!! only 4.5-5 hrs. Now that I have it setup, what do I need to do to the top before I start sawing?

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