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R848 Cordless Hand Planer

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  • R848 Cordless Hand Planer

    Hi guys - new poster here. Finishing up a basement office and the cabinets I made to go under the built in desk are 3/8" too tall.

    I could shave them down with my circ saw but I'm worried about tearout (they are already finished - I know, I'm an idiot )

    I liked the Ridid planer over the others because of cost and the nice spiral blade. The pricier ones have a nicer shoe but this wont get that much use so I'm not worried about it.

    So will this do what I'm looking for it to? I.E. not tearout on a finished piece made of 3/4 maple veneer ply? And of course it would be a cross cut on the veneer.

    Never used one of these machines before so I really am not aware of thier capabilities.

    Thanks for your help.

  • #2
    Here is what I would do because I don't have a table saw.
    I do have a portable planer and would not use it for this type of work because I find it difficult to control the depth of cut and keep the cut square, if you do decide to try it make sure you clamp a scrap board to the edge of the plywood that you finish the cut at or you will splinter out the end badly.
    Use some painters tape on the side that you will cut with your skill saw (use a fine toothed blade) The tape helps stop splintering and protects the surface from the plate of the saw. Next take an exacto knife and cut through the tape and veneer on the line that you want to cut. Clamp a guide board across the side for the saw plate to ride against. Set the guide so the blade cuts about 1/64" off the scribe line to the scrap side.
    Since a skil saw cuts up as you feed it into the material the bottom side will not splinter and the top side veneer has already been cut by the knife.
    Practice on some scrap
    AND WELCOME TO THE GROUP !!!
    Last edited by wbrooks; 02-21-2006, 06:27 PM.

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    • #3
      Another option, if its possible with the geometry of the piece you're cutting, is to clamp another piece of scrap lumber to the finished side of the cabinet extending over the entire cut line (you'll probably have to cut one edge at a time and set your saw depth to just cut that face and the sacrificial board, not into the side pieces abutting it) as well as the end of the cut, and use your circular saw (with the finest cut blade you have) and an edge guide. If you need to plane or sand the edge smooth, do it before you remove the clamped on piece. Do this for each finished side.
      If you don't have sharp fine-toothed blade for your circular saw, this will reduce tearout better than tape. The biggest headache will be getting everything clamped up without interfering with the circular saw motor as you travel across the cut (voice of experience??, Hope you have plenty of clamps!)).
      Before you do this, decide how much you really want a new toy. Sometimes all that's required is a good "need" to buy something you wanted anyway!!

      Also, Welcome to the forum!!
      Last edited by Gofor; 02-21-2006, 08:14 PM.
      Practicing at practical wood working

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