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  • TS3650 Extension Table Alignment

    Well the assembly of my TS3650 has gone well up to this point. So I have checked all the tables with my straight edge and they are flat. However, I am having problems aligning the extensions to the main table. I followed the procedure recommended in the online manual using the C clamps. But I just can't seem to align the table tops the same front to back. I can align the tables flat in the front but not in the back. the left side extension seems to be a little high at the rear and the right side extension seems to be lowin the rear. I even tried switching the extensions, but still have the same problem. Any ideas? Anyone else had this problem?

    kmw

  • #2
    I have been looking at owners manuals (for contractors saws) from grizzly, delta....etc. In the grizzly manuals they recomend using masking tape to shim the extension wings. So I will try that tomorrow, but if anyone has any other thoughts/ideas I would greatly appreciate the input.

    kmw

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    • #3
      I had the same problem assembling my saw last week. I finally figured out that no matter how you set it, dink it or move it, the extension table is about 1/32 SHORTER than the main table top. Align the front and top as closely as possible, forget the rear and shim it when you put the rear rail on using the brass shims that come with the saw. It had no visible impact on the rail alignment, etc. when shimmed.

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      • #4
        thanks for the reply wireland..... i know what you are talking about, but my problem is slightly different... mine has to do with the top surfaces. i can get the the extension table top surfaces to align in the front however when i get to the rear of the table the top surface is not flat. i just rechecked the flatness of my main table and extension wings with my veritas straight edge. the wings surfaces are flat side to side, front to back, and diagonally. the main table is flat side to side, front to back, and on one diagonal; however on the other diagonal there is a slight low spot (about the thickness of a magazine subscription card) on the left side of the main table close to where the 2 center bolt hole are located for the wing attachment. geez, i hope i am explaining this well cause i am starting to confuse myself lol. i read online and in Kelly Mehler's, "The Table Saw Book", that the wings sometimes need to be shimmed. so i will try that, but before i go ahead with that i called Ridgid to ask what the tolerances are for the TS 3650 table tops....and to ask how that will affect the attachment of the wings. The tech on the phone could not answer my question so i was forwarded to the voice mail of the head Ridgid tech. so now i am awaiting a phone call before i proceed any further. once again any input would be appreciated.

        thanks to all,
        kmw

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        • #5
          I read somewhere about using a soda can to make shims and they helped me level my 3650 extensions.
          Start off slow then taper off.

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          • #6
            From your description, it sounds like the table surface is not flat. If the extension is flat, and the table isn't, no amount of shim will true it (Cast iron doesn't bend well, either). The "dip" may be the result of a surface flaw being buffed out at the factory. If it were me, I would be contacting Ridgid or HD to see about getting a replacement.
            Practicing at practical wood working

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            • #7
              Gofor,

              You are right my main table is not flat and no matter what I do I just can't get the wings perfectly level. At first I thought it was just off on one diagonal, but yesterday after close inspection with my straight edge and a flashlight I realized that there are many high and low spots. So I called Ridgid and was told that the table flatness tolerance was .016" ... so .016 in an isolated area may not be bad, but many high or low spots is just a problem no matter how you look at it. Now I have to decide if I want to just swap out the main table or the whole saw. This is very discouraging because before I bought the TS3650 I returned a BT3100 mostly due to table flatness issues. So on a whim I called Ryobi and asked what their table flatness tolerance was ....... guess what it is .016 ! I guess that makes sense since it seems that Ridgid and Ryobi are made by the same parent company...... I think....have to confirm that one. Anyway, I will post again once I decide what to do. Thanks to all for the info.

              kmw

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              • #8
                I just finished putting together my extension table tops and had a question regarding the top of the main table and the extensions.

                Should the surface between the main top and extensions be perfectly flush and how flush are we talking about? I just want to be sure. I spent over and hour and a half trying to get the surfaces perfectly flush. I checked with my combination square and it looks fine. If I run my finger over it I will feel just a very, very, slight edge. I don't think anyone can get both tops to be perfectly flush with each other. Please clarify this for me. Thanks

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                • #9
                  All i can say is hats off to ridgid and me then after reading so many posts about small problems with the 3650.I guess i lucked out because I got my 3650 and had it together in 2.3 hours . I have not had any problems with alignment or the blade or splitter or anything. ( knock on wood) I just assembled , checked the blade for alignment and started making sawdust with it. Sorry to hear so many have small problems or big ones , with the saw. I am not saying im a geniues or anything but i only had the manual that came with it to assemble it also. I found the online manual when I came to this site.I am glad I got lucky.

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                  • #10
                    Table Alignment

                    The best way is to use the C-clamp method. There are four bolts that go thru hole that have enough slack to allow you to raise or lower the extension to align with saw the table top. I do the front then the back and then the two center ones. If the table is high you need to put a small steel washer on the pad of the clamp, but so its only engaging the lip of the extension. This will act as a jack to bring it up to the height of the saw table. It should be perfectly flat and you should not feel the edge when you run your finger accross. If its high you reverse the process. You do need a good steel c-clamp, not an aluminum one. Cast iron will flex. Good luck.

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