If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You will be required to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.
Here is how you fight fire with FIRE LOL
Okay, back to business. I'm beginning to understand why papadan suggested the dremel as a solution. It has economical attachment accessories that provide router capabilities but how can this setup be used to square the stock? I didn't notice any guide system in the dremel manual that could work properly on this project so I'm assuming there is a third party solution. If you know of it, kindly put it forward.
I was not very gracious to papadan and have since tried to ameliorate that with subsequent posts. I was not very gracious to johnyreb but how could I resist that glaring missing "n" :?) Considering the rough handling I received from Lorax, I would say I was quite gracious to him and I believe many more readers in this thread are more entertained than annoyed with how I retaliated. Seriously, how funny is it to think that Lorax himself clicked on the "FIRE" link above? He probably did and that was why the mods changed the syntax so that the poor fellow wouldn't end up being ignored by the whole forum. For those of you who have clicked on the link above and found the dialogue to ignore Lorax, just hit your "RETURN" key and you will be brought back to where you were, LOL. About your post, please make me understand what you are trying to tell me. Is it aimed to encourage me to look harder for a solution? I believe I'm asking pertinant questions here and knowing about the effect of vibrations or runout on a particular saw may make the diference between 0.008" and 0.004" but your post seems to disregard these topics as relevant, do I understand you correctly? Is it a suggestion to pull down my guard and allow myself to be pummeled without countering? I believe my responses were sufficiently measured but I respect your opinion if you say I went overboard. I agree that a certain amount of skill is requisite on my part but because my skill is likely to be fairly deficient due to my lack of experience, I am trying to give myself the best chance I can for success. In this context, is it so wrong to ask questions and request seemingly obnoxious detail :?)
I am mainly doing home renovation, but also have been building some custom home audio speaker enclosures, basically furniture grade stuff. Also strongly considering making my own kitchen cabinets as I get better at this hobby(can't be that much harder than home audio, right?- lol) So this leads me to definitely choose the TS3650... but here's the problem, saw gets stored in a small 10x10 shed, basically has to be rolled across the lawn 60 feet to the patio to be used.
Here's my question: I know the TS3650 is nearly 300 pounds, but I am a pretty big guy (and hard-headed to boot)- can I somehow move this thing across the lawn? Anyone ever make an "all terrain" Herculift or something similar? Will I have to be the first to figure it out?
All indications are I need a lightweight collapsing stand portable, but I need the quality of cuts and features that only a full-on contractor saw will allow.
Also, if everyone says I have no choice but to go full portable, than I am maybe leaning towards Bosch 4000 over TS2400. Any additional input would be appreciated.
Mr. yldouright. I have no further comments or suggestions for you concerning the project you have chosen to undertake. That being said, please refer to the above quoted post and then blame someone else for hijacking this thread. Now I would request you to look at this username "yldouright" and ask just how the heII you can fault someone else for the chosen way of spelling thier username. I along with EVERYONE else on this forum can pronouce the name johnyreb without mistake, Mine is spelled the way I chose, also and most people pronouce it incorrectly, I am not Poppa, I am Paw Paw Dan. So what! Remember, A thrown stone, cannot be recalled. Whatever damage it does is done. Ya'll have a nice day now, ya hear. P.S. I don't use the gump button, I like to read tupid shid
I'm sorry you don't see the humor in my posts. I didn't think you were the kind of guy that held a grudge but your post seems to indicate that you are. Well, when one shaves there will be shavings.
I appreciate the comments on my writing style but I'm really here only for project advice
If you don't hold grudges, what was all that about not being able to retrieve a thrown stone? For the record, you recommended a Dremel and I got one. I also looked up the nifty attachments for routing and cutting but it still looks like an inferior solution to me. Admittedly, I state that with no authority but I'm not without any sense of what is needed for my project. I'm assuming that you know more about setting up and using this tool than I do so I don't think I'm wrong in stating that you're holding back. As I stated earlier, if you can tell me how to use the Dremel to get what I want I will apologize openly for my impertinance but that information has not been presented yet.
Why ignore everyone? You don't throw the baby out with the bilgewater. I've told everyone what I'm building. Four aluminum boxes. The material stock was also described as were the approximate sizes and the need for periodic disassembly. I know it's unpopular for upstarts like me to confront the prominent members of a forum but just as oysters give up pearls when introduced to the proper irritant, my confrontational questions may be irritating enough to prompt untapped brilliance out of the experienced who read them. At the very least it will cause them to think about things they haven't thought of in years
yldouright, My reference to the stone was in reply to your blaming someone else for highjacking this thread. It was not your thread originally, and your comment about someones name spelling. I did explain how to use the hand held tools to get the accuracy you desire. Think back to grade school, how did you draw a straight line on a piece of paper? Thats right, The ruler is the straight edge, and the pencil is the Dremel tool.
Perhaps it is my failing but I don't see an obvious way to square up cut 6mm aluminum sheet to the tolerances described without sacrificing some accuracy or scarring the guide with the stock attachments I was given. The cutting tool on the Dremel can cut most steel so the guide system used would have to be pretty hard and even if it were that hard, I would probably damage/dull the tool trying to cut within 0.004". The other thing that comes to mind is the squareness of the cut. I suppose it could cut close enough and hand file the rest of the way down to my spec but that is asking alot of my level of skill and experience. Were you thinking of the router attachment and square bit as an addition to the stock Dremel to achieve my goal?
In spite of your own appraisal, that your skills fall short, you continue to request assistance, only to argue against the advice that is offered. So my thoughts on wading in here is that it will, most likely, be a big waste of my time too.
If I understand it correctly, you want to build a couple of boxes out of sheet aluminum... and, you want tolerances within a few thousands of an inch as you cut the material to dimension. Can we presume that you have a tool that will also guarantee such tolerances when you bend the material, or doesn't that enter into your scheme?
Despite your stated level of experience, you seem to insist on using "woodworking" tools, which you have steadfastly stated need to hold the dimensions within "thousands". Well woodworking tools, even when highly accurate and done with very experienced hands, might possibly achieve +/- 1/128th of an inch. This would be under the most optimum of conditions, which I've never seen and certainly wouldn't claim to be able to do.
So, if you need what you are asking for; I think you should consult with a local machine shop and have the material either sheared or milled to your specifications. IMO even a small sheetmetal shop would tend to hesitate on building to 0.004 inch tolerances. If that is above your expense budget, then you need to rethink the project and the tolerances that you have specified. Maybe I missed it, but I don't recall you ever stating exactly what these boxes are going to be used for. Do you really require those specifications or is your objective only to participate in theoretical arguments as it currently appears?