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Looming saw purchase- TS3650 vs. TS2400

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  • #76
    I'm not arguing the advice but I am questioning it and I believe that is what anyone should do about advice before making a decision to accept it. Your assessment of the project is accurate. All the cuts are straight and no bending is required. What you state about acheiving the desired accuracy through a local machine shop is discouraging. I had hoped that if I decided to job this project out, the liklihood of success would have been greater than if I used my own care, time and energy to do it. I would have thought that machining a soft metal like aluminum would not be dissimilar to wood. Indeed, the blades recommended for this metal are also recommended for hardwoods so there is some corroboration to my opinion. For the record, I stated that a performance improvement will result out of a closer tolerance on the cuts. Whether or not this performance is worth the addtional expense or trouble is a later stage decision. First, I need to know if it's possible, then if it's plausable and finally if I can afford it. How much money would it require to cut the job as per the specs?
    Last edited by yldouright; 04-13-2006, 03:21 PM.


    • #77
      Yes sir you are arguing the advice. You need some pieces of aluminum that are 6" x 11" X 1/4" , Measure and mark the pieces and cut them out. Since you cannot grasp the concept of using a straight edge and any kind of saw to cut the pieces, then you are SOL. Your post about the base of the Dremel getting damaged from the guide or guide being damaged by the dremel or whatever you were trying to say means to me that you need to lay all power tools down and step away from them. Send me $100 and I will send you the pieces cut to the EXACT size you specify, and I will cut them with a jig saw, I will not allow metal shavings to get into my table saw or DC system. Believe it or not, 6" is 6" not 6 1/ 128th " or 5 127/128th" it really is 6". And 153mm is just that along with 283mm. Why would you even want 1/128th" accuracy for a metric project and why call the top and bottom plates extrusions instead of plate or sheet aluminum. 3mm overhang will not add any structural stability to the boxes either. And now you can explain the corners of the boxes. If the top and bottom plates are 8mm thick and 280mm wide and 280mm long, then all your sides cannot be 283mm in length and width and fit together to form a box. The side pieces will have to be cut to 280mm and a half inch and each end mitered or cut 2 sides to 280mm and the other 2 would be 280mm and 1/2" to overlap the 2 short sides or cut all 4 pieces to 280mm and 1/4" for each piece to overlap the next on one corner only. I don't know where you came up with your deminsions but they don't work. If you really do have a project to make some aluminum boxes, then cut the pieces and assemble the boxes. If you ask for assistance then read the reply and say thank you to the person giving the advice. Take the advice and apply a little common since to do the task, and not argue with the people offering to help about things that are of no concern. If you cut it to the size wanted then it will be the size wanted not a 1/128th or 1mm off. Now shut up and go build your boxes. Every bit of information you need is in this thread. READ IT until you grasp it.
      info for all: --- "I like long walks, especially when they are taken by people who annoy me."


      • #78
        Happy Holidays and thanks for the enthusiastic reply
        Okay, it is not the top and bottom plate that are extruded but the sides. All the other conecting parts are 6mm flat except for the face which will be decorative so there will be only three flatplates (top, bottom and back) and two extrusions (left and right side) per box. The extrusions extend about 40mm out from a 10mm baseplate on both sides and functions as a heatsink. Only the inside dimensions and mating surfaces of the box are critical and that was why I only gave an approximate external box dimension. The idea was to cut matching 3mm x 6mm channels on the connecting parts so the flat plates would have a mating surface to flush mount on the back, top and bottom but now that I think about it, I could probably cut a single 6mm x 6mm channel on two sides instead and not give up much strength since the cuts are likely to be more accurate if I do them 6mm x 6mm. The flatplate stock will be brushed down from its 1/4" width to 6mm. The extrusion was cut unevenly and needs to be squared. Only two of the extrusion part sides need the 6mm x 6mm channels to flush mount the top and bottom flat plates. I am relying on the premise that the uncut sides of the extrusions are straight so it shouldn't be a big deal to square them up to size. The internal dimensions would be 150mm x 250mm x 278mm so that would mean 162mm x 278mm for the top and bottom plates and 162mm x 262mm for the backplate. The uncut side of the extrusion is 278mm so the front and back plates won't need grooves, the flat plate will just flush mount on the outside over the back of the box. Hope that clears up any previous obfuscations
        Last edited by yldouright; 04-15-2006, 12:30 PM.