Announcement

Announcement Module
Collapse
No announcement yet.

Burn marks, help please

Page Title Module
Move Remove Collapse
X
Conversation Detail Module
Collapse
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Burn marks, help please

    Hi I has been using my 3650 for the last six months, and has not been able to pproduce a cut with out burn marks, I bougth a new caliper (dial ) set to make sure everything is square and everything look fine, I have several blade from 40tooth to 120 tooth, thin kerf, everything with the same result.
    so since i need to work with I just deal with a litle one pass jointing after I did the cut or some extra sanding. I call ridgid and follow all their advice and still getting the sam result. I dont want to take to the service center since is two hours away from me and can't afford the down time and I don't want to have to buy another saw for the time this one is down.

    I always use the saw with the fence on the right side, yesterday I had a few sheets of plywood blocking the rigth side so I decided to work on the left side of the saw, and VOILA!!!!, perfect cut, I was like a kid in a candy stoe, I cut plywood I cut hard maple I cut cherry, teak, walnut and everything was beautiful, smoth cuts with no burn mark.

    Here is my problem I can't work with the fence on the left side feel awkward for me.
    So what do you thing is the problem a defective fence????
    I will be calling ridgid today, but I will like to know if people experience this before and how to solve it.
    ?
    Thanks

  • #2
    Sounds like the fence is out of alignment. There are instructions in the manual on how to align it. For best results it should heel out at the back a 4 or 5 thousands of an inch.
    SSG, U.S. Army
    Retired
    K.I.S.S., R.T.F.M.

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by TOD
      Sounds like the fence is out of alignment. There are instructions in the manual on how to align it. For best results it should heel out at the back a 4 or 5 thousands of an inch.
      WHAT HE SAID!!
      Lorax
      "Did you put the yellow key in the switch?" TOD 01/09/06

      Comment


      • #4
        I already check the fence and i have it with 2000, on the back, I'm of the teory that the fence should be totally straight from front to back by I hear some people do this and i try it and didnt help, it's funny I never have this problem with my old bt3000 or my Delta, I replace them base on the good reviews, now I wish i kept and extra Table saw.

        Oh well any other ideas can the fence by defective or bendt.

        Comment


        • #5
          Have you also checked the alignment of the blade plus the alignment of the splitter?
          Teach your kids about taxes..........eat 30 percent of their ice cream.

          Comment


          • #6
            Most blade manufactures suggest "toeing" the fence out just a tad (tail angled slightly away from the blade) ...about 0.003 to ensure there's no pinching. You might also check that the fence is perfectly straight and not warped in.
            Last edited by hewood; 04-03-2006, 10:56 AM.

            Comment


            • #7
              Sounds like the fence is toed out. Meaning the back of the fence is closer to the blade than the front. If the fence is in alignment with the miter slot, then possibly the blade is out of alignment. To do this, loosen the trunnion blots and nudge the trunnion into alignment. Check with a dial indicator.

              The last thing I would consider is tooth count on the blade. 30-40 tooth blades are best for ripping. Any more than that increases the chances of burning.

              Good luck,
              John

              Comment


              • #8
                I was having this problem a bit when I first setup my saw. The first part of the cut would be smooth and nice, but as I fed the wood in past the blade, it would start to bind and burnt the cut. I checked all the alignments, even bought a dial caliper setup. Everthing was just fine; fence and blade and mitre slot all lined up within .003.

                I was getting just a bit frustrated when I saw a post from someone (I forget who, please forgive me) who had run into a problem getting their splitter aligned correctly. I checked that and bingo...it was toed in just slightly at the back! That would explain why using the fence on the left works, as the splitter no longer cants the wood against the blade causing it to burn the cut.

                Following the advice in that thread, I used two long straight-edges against the blade, long enough to run past the splitter and finally got the splitter locked in straight to the blade. It took a lot of doing to get both bolts tight and the fence straight, but it worked. Now that I have the splitter lined up, everything works great. It cuts absolutely straight, and I don't have any problems with burns. The wood feeds in perfectly all the way through the cut, even if I'm cutting at less than an inch! Lining up the splitter is the hardest thing I had to do on the saw, but definately a required step. Now that it's lined up, I can take the splitter off the saw when needed, and replace it and it's still lined up!

                I hope that helps you. I'm by no means a TS expert (faaaaaaaar from it, really), but I've found the people on this forum to be exceptionally helpful! I am merely passing on advice from these fine folks.
                I put it all back together better than before. There\'s lots of leftover parts.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Found the problem Thanks!!!

                  The fence is warp on the middle, is very small I use a steel straigh and found a small warp on the middle, very insignificant just enough to fit a piece of paper, I think Im going to add a face (make it look like a bismayer) of UHMW, (Ultra High Molecular Weight Polyethylene), I has been wanting to do this any way to make it more slick and just put a shim were the problem is, if that doesn't work I will contact ridgid for a replacement, It's wierd that the warp is only in one side of the fence.

                  Just in case someone also want to get some of this material is in this web site http://www.ttrackusa.com/uhmw.htm

                  Thanks for the help I will post some pictures after I get it done

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by johnarce
                    The fence is warp on the middle, is very small I use a steel straigh and found a small warp on the middle, very insignificant just enough to fit a piece of paper, I think Im going to add a face (make it look like a bismayer) of UHMW, (Ultra High Molecular Weight Polyethylene), I has been wanting to do this any way to make it more slick and just put a shim were the problem is, if that doesn't work I will contact ridgid for a replacement, It's wierd that the warp is only in one side of the fence.

                    Just in case someone also want to get some of this material is in this web site http://www.ttrackusa.com/uhmw.htm

                    Thanks for the help I will post some pictures after I get it done
                    Mine is also just about before the end never did notice it until last weekend and making up 2 fences for dado wonder why it was pulled in about 5 " from the end.

                    Oh well cuts straight.

                    Do I here aux fence here we come

                    also you can get it at WoodCraft stores and here.http://www.mcmaster.com/

                    Also I guess you have been resetting the Splitter after all the blade changes?

                    You are one heck of a woodworker then as I don't want to change my blade cause of it
                    Last edited by Reef12; 04-07-2006, 05:52 AM.
                    Not responsible for speeling mistakes
                    Jeff

                    Comment

                    Working...
                    X