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  • Banding question (newbie style)

    Hey my most knowledgeable peers...
    I glued my solid wood banding onto the edge of my plywood shelving.
    What is the best way to trim the solid wood down flush to the plywood without messing up the danty, delicate veneer surface of the plywood?

    arigato gozaimasu!
    Yoroshiku onegai shimasu

  • #2
    How about a router mounted with a flush trim bit.
    Teach your kids about taxes..........eat 30 percent of their ice cream.

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    • #3
      4 possible tools:
      http://www.woodcraft.com/depts.aspx?deptid=2247

      Specifically, #1 and #2 are for edge banding.

      There's always a tool.......
      I put it all back together better than before. There\'s lots of leftover parts.

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      • #4
        Lorax
        "Did you put the yellow key in the switch?" TOD 01/09/06

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        • #5
          Cool Beans!

          Well now i see why that crib has taken you so long L...

          Thanks guys. I was thinking about using the flush trim, but i didn't want to risk skimming into the veneer.

          Thanks for the link Sandy. ([wispering] maybe Lorax will go there too. Poor guy )
          Yoroshiku onegai shimasu

          Comment


          • #6
            If its oak pay close attention to the grain pattern and always cut across the grain in the direction that it slopes away from the edge. if you cut in the other direction the grain may catch on the knife and tear or depending on the tool, the grain may pull the tool to cut too deep. I either use an olfa with the black ultramax blades or hand plane for thicker edge trim

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            • #7
              Me with an olfa!?! Not good!

              Thanks W.
              If you use a hand plane, how do you keep from accidently biting into the veneer of the panel?
              Now don't be rolling your eyes
              I haven't done this stuff before

              Thanks again.
              Yoroshiku onegai shimasu

              Comment


              • #8
                Cabinet Scraper?

                If the banding is solid wood (i.e. not veneer tape), wouldn't a cabinet scaper work as well? There would be a lower risk of the blade biting into the veneer.

                FSK

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                • #9
                  Even dirt cheep veneer is a least 0.02" thick. When doing fine work my plane is set to take 0.001" of material or 20 extra strokes once the banding is level with the veneer to get through the veneer layer. I also tend to hold the plane at a slight angle to keep it off the surface veneer.
                  A cabinet scraper is also a great tool for veneer when the scraper edge is prepared properly with a very fine burr

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                  • #10
                    A couple of thoughts:
                    1. If you aren't proficient with a hand plane, or you don't have the iron "scary sharp", practice with a prototype setup first.
                    2. Whatever you trim the bulk of the overlap off with (a dovetail saw will also work) put masking tape over the veneer right up to the face banding. when you get to the point you are touching the masking tape, finish with a block of wood and some sandpaper, sanding towards the veneer so as not to peel of the banding, but at a slight angle so the sandpaper does not hit the veneer.
                    This will take longer and you don't get the "Macho" effect of the zoom zoom of a power tool, but it lets you be in control and you won't have to worry about tearout from the grain orientation. Work slowly and carefully.
                    Power tools are like computers in one respect, they let you mess up at the speed of light!!
                    My $.02 worth
                    Practicing at practical wood working

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                    • #11
                      Lots of good ideas

                      If you aren't proficient with a hand plane
                      Lord what an understatement! I'm the worst ever!

                      I did think about the tape over the veneer. Just wasn't sure how that would work out.
                      Also thought about making a test piece too. Especially being the first time ever trying something like this. Not that the shelf is any huge deal, but you always feel crappy when you mess up a real piece.

                      I think i will make the test piece and try all the different suggestions just to get a feel for each one.

                      Thanks
                      Nobu
                      Yoroshiku onegai shimasu

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Nobu, is your plane good n sharp? The guys at Woodcraft showed me a great way to get a hand plane to where it's almost like a hot knife thru your choice of hardwood butter. Now I just have to work on the shoe....
                        I put it all back together better than before. There\'s lots of leftover parts.

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                        • #13
                          I need a good one...

                          Honestly Sandy, I have two cheap planes that i just don't care for. One is a Stanley and the other (can't remember) I bought at HD.
                          I guess because i'm no good at it i never invested in a high dollar, quality hand plane.
                          Any suggestions on what i should maybe look at?

                          Thanks
                          Nobu
                          Yoroshiku onegai shimasu

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Wood Mag ran a series on tuning a sharpening planes a while back. With those techniques I got a Big Lots plane working as well as can be expected. Took a long time to flatten the sole and to razor sharp the blade, but worth the time. Now that I see what a well tuned cheepie can do I think I'll move up to a Stanley.
                            Only a surfer knows the feeling. Billabong ca. 1985 or so

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                            • #15
                              I spent almost countless hours fettling my Stanley planes, started with a cheap 70's Mastercraft to get the feel for it and then moved up to my better vintage Stanley's. I got excellent results with my tuned planes and even though I can sharpen a blade so it with shave curlies on end grain pine I still was not happy with the longevity of the performance.
                              I realized that my lee valley bull nose and shoulder plane would cut much better for a far longer time between sharpening so I decided to try a replacement LV blade for my Stanley 4.5
                              That was by far the largest performance improvement and took only minutes.
                              http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...44&cat=1,41182

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