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Glappe, great links. I learned a bunch about cutting boards. Timely info too cause LOML wants a good set of kitchen knives and I know that our current glass board kills knife edges
Take a look at this knife set at leevalley. I was given this set as a wedding gift from my sister-in-law and I love them. My wife is Canadian, that's how I learned about Leevalley. As an interesting side note....My wife's maiden name was brooks, and she's from Ontario. Small world huh?
I run my good knives across a steel nearly every time I use them, cuts down on how often they will need sharpening. I use maple cutting boards. Unless you are running a pro kitchen, good knives with a maple cutting board can go a long time between sharpenings.
Well I fixed the kickback problem. It was me, I adjusted the infeed table up just a little to compensate for the heavy board. I also adjusted the height of the rollers by eye so that it just grabs the board, then I slowly lower the blades until the board runs through. I make a pass then lower just a little so I only take off no more than a 16th. This has solved the kickback problem so I'm back in bussiness. I also made a stop on the miter saw's fence so I just put the boards against the back of the fence and slide it to the stop and cut. This gives me the same 2" cut every time. Much better.
Just to show you what I've been talking about here are pics of the two end-grain cutting boards that I finished tonite. They do have rubber feet, you just can't see them.
Yes, nice work. This is sort of on topic. How are these glued up? Did you glue the blocks into strips, then glue the strips together, or are all the blocks glued in one go?
Here you go, this is what I do.
Plane the beams/boards to make sure that all the sides are flat and smooth.
Cut the beams/boards into the 2" pieces, and assemble the pieces to form a nice pattern. Remeber to alternate the grain of the blocks to control warping.
Glue and clamp the blocks vertical surface to form horizontal strips. Let the glue dry.
Plane the sides (not the end grain) of the strips to create a flat surface for gluing the strips together. Dry fit and clamp the strips to check the joining surfaces for a flush fit.
Glue and clamp the strips together to form the board. Let the glue dry. Pay attention to the pattern.
Plane the top and bottom of the board alternating the top and bottom while planing. Plane slowly and a little at a time or you might damage the board. Also only plane in one direction since the planer will feather the end-grain and it will need to be cut off (I use a band saw) and sanded smooth with a belt sander.
After planing check for gaps between the blocks and fill with glue and let it dry for a few hours.
Use a router with a round over bit on all corners.
Sand with 150 grit paper using a DA sander.
Sand with 240 grit paper using a DA sander.
Mount the feet and apply several coats of the sealing paste. The paste is made by melting 5 parts mineral oil with one part beeswax. When it cools it becomes a paste.
Cutting end grain with a thickness planer is a misapplication. If you intend to make a quantity of these cutting boards, you might want to look for a used stroke sander. It is also possible to build a small stroke sander depending on your ability to "forage" materials such as angle iron, roller bearings, motors, belts, etc. You might find instructions on the net or in woodworking magazines. I would not recommend using a thickness planer for your application. I own the same planer you are using.