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  • Several Issues with my new BS14002

    Hello..was hoping to hear from other BS14002 owners who can comment on whether the issues I am having are known/common.

    I purchased the Ridgid 14" Bandsaw at HD about 10 days ago. I assembled it without too much difficulty (required some muscle from the husband to lift it out of the box). I struggled through all the required adustments--tensioning, tracking, guides--top and bottom. And they were all necessary. I ran into the following two problems:

    First, the lower bearing required adjusting. When I attempted to back the bearing shaft out, so that I could rotate the shaft to get the correct 1/8" over lap--I was thwarted by interference with the table trunion base. I could not fully back the bearing shaft out without taking the trunion base off. No mention of having to do this in the manual, so I'm wondering if I have something defective here. Not a huge issue, but this will be an inconvenience if I have to fiddle with this often.

    Second problem has prevented me from actually cutting anything. When I powered on for the first time, there was an acrid smell of burning rubber after about 15 seconds. After my initial panic I determined the upper tire was slipping off the wheel. I checked to make sure the wheels were aligned, and they appear to be fine. I rechecked all adjustments and tried again, and this time the belt and blade nearly came off the wheel. The bottom tire seems fine, but the upper tire feels somewhat lose to me--I can fairly easily push the tire back onto the wheel rim. Seems like this might be too lose, but since I have absolutely no experience with bandsaws, I just don't know.

    Can anyone give me some insight/advice as to what they think the problem may be--defective tire, or something else.

    Thank you....Trish

  • #2
    Trish,

    I'll comment on your problems, but unfortunately have little in the way of suggestions or help.

    First, the tire. You are not alone. There have been several mentions of the tire slipping off the wheel in this forum. IIRC, the others were always after some use and (I'm really stretching my memory on this one) were the tires on the bottom wheel. I haven't read any thing other than the report of the problem, no definitive cause or solution. I would suggest calling Ridgid and getting new tires. A better solution would be to buy urethane tire replacements (I know you probably don't want to hear that right after buying a new band saw).

    I haven't heard of the issue with removing the bearing shaft. I have removed mine. It was a tight fit, but not significantly difficult. The only thing that comes to mind is the factory placed the lower bearing/guide assembly too far back (away from the door). You should not have to take the trunion base off.

    You have options. Bring the whole thing back to Home Depot and replace it. Bring the whole thing back and buy something else. Call Ridgid Customer Service and see what they can do.

    Sorry I could help more.

    Chris

    Comment


    • #3
      While you are buying new stuff for the saw the supplied blade is well --- crap at best. Before you frustrate yourself trying to figure out why the blade drifts on resaw or doesn't track properly period get a new timberwolf blade. IMHO one of the best blades available.
      PS don't be concerned that you need a new blade as all saws in that price range (under $1500) benifit from a new aftermarket blade

      Comment


      • #4
        Well, let's open this can of worms all the way . You'll also want to buy a link belt to replace the stock V-belt. This will cut down on vibration and allow you to move the motor back so you can open the bottom door all the way.

        Comment


        • #5
          Bandsaw Issues

          Chris and Wayne,
          Thanks for your replies. I did call Ridgid Technical support and told them about the tire issue. The initial response was "you can return it". I explained this was not especially desirable--after spending hours getting it together, not to mention the physical logistics involved. Then they offerred to send me a new tire, which they are.

          I have read the other posts associated with the various Bandsaw 14002 issues-- tires, vbelt, and blade suggestions are consistent. Based on this forum I ordered several 93.5 timberwolf blades from Suffolk, and they should be here in a day or so. Before I invest more $ in the urethane tires--which I plan to do--I want to demonstrate that I can actually get this particular tool to work on a basic level. (I'd be happy with the problem of drift..at least you've got the tool working to the point of cutting something!).

          If I can't resolve the issues after a reasonable attempt, then I'll bring it back to the HD. If I get to that point, am I required to completely disassemble the saw and stand and rebox? (The odds of it actually fitting back into the box are low). Or can I return it partially assembled? At this point, not sure which way would be easier for me--but would be interested to know if I have options.

          Thank you,
          Trish

          Comment


          • #6
            Trish,

            Sorry that you're having problems. I don't understand the adjustment you're describing to the lower bearing. Can you clarify. I just bought one of these and I didn't think the lower bearing was adjustable.

            One thought: If you buy a new saw from HD, then you can slowly unpack the new one in order to know how to pack up the old one. Then just return the old one. Of course, if you just want to return it, this won't help.

            --Dave

            Comment


            • #7
              Lower Bearing Shaft

              Hi Dave,
              Per the manual (page 24 to be exact), the same procedure for adjusting the upper blade guide assembly/thrust bearing applies to the lower assembly as well. The fittings are nearly identical for both. The lower assembly seemed a little off the required 1/8" overlap, so I decided to adjust it. (I'd be interested in hearing why you thought you didn't need to adjust the lower bearing--I'm just a newbie at this.)

              First, I couldn't get to the assembly without removing the table. And then I couldn't complete the thrust bearing adjustment because I couldn't fully back out the knurled screw (that removes the eccentric bearing shaft)--it would bump up against the table trunion base, making it impossible for me to get the shaft out. So I had to take the trunion off to complete the adjustment.

              As there is absolutely no mention in the manual of having to remove the trunion (or table for that matter) to perform this adjustment, I have to conclude that something is not quite right here. The fact that Chris/Wayne don't have the same problem suggest there is a problem with the casting on mine tool. (I think the body casting that the lower guide assembly rests on is too short by about 3/16". ) I tried to re-seat the assembly on the body by shifting it towards the blade, but this just threw everything out of alignment with the upper assembly.

              I was reading user reviews of other bandsaws on Amazon and noted that many of the issues I am having with this saw seem to be similar to those noted for the Delta 14 inch BS that is similarly priced to this one...perhaps they are made in the same factory.

              My initial impression is that there is too much play in all the fittings, guides, and guards on this saw. This troubles me because the set-up specs seem almost impossibly precise--i.e., 1/64th of an inch?? When I tighten the thumb screws the bearing shifts by that amount or more. So I'm wondering if I'll ever get a satisfactory performance with this tool.

              The thought of going through this process again with a replacement tool leaves me a little weary. Still on the fence.

              Hope this helped...Trish

              Comment


              • #8
                I don't get why you had to fully remove that bolt in order to move the guide? I've adjusted my lower bearing and guide blocks a few times, and have yet to have to remove anything completely. I'll check next time I'm in the shop (I forgot to check it today, sorry), but I don't think mine is in any way encumbered. I also definately didn't take the table off. It's a flat-out pain to adjust the lower bearing and blocks, but it is required, and it is possible. I did take off the lower bearing blade guard, however. I'm sure I have that piece around....it is with the saw...I just never put it back. Since I like to check and re-adjust the guides periodically, I just don't bother w/that guard.

                The lower bearing assembly should be identical to the upper with the exception that the lower is not on an adjustable sliding metal bit like the upper. You should be able to do the same dollar-bill adjustment to the lower guide block that was used for the upper.

                I merely got the guide bearing where I wanted it, and checked by manually turning the blade using the wheel (and not the blade..which is kind of painful...a lesson I learned the hard way). It's a tedious process.

                I hope you can get yours where it needs to be. I really love mine. That band saw is one of my more well-used tools.
                I put it all back together better than before. There\'s lots of leftover parts.

                Comment


                • #9
                  VASandy,
                  I can't remove the lower bearing shaft (the eccentric shaft that moves the bearing laterally--toward or away from the blade, to get the 1/8" overlap)--without removing the table trunion base.

                  I can make all other lower adjustments (blocks/microadjusting the bearing) without removing anthing. I had no issues with the upper adjustments, other than I feel there's quite a bit of play in the fittings to get reliably delicate adjustments.

                  Maybe I'm making an issue out of nothing here: How often does the lower bearing need to be adjusted to get it back to the 1/8th overlap position? If the answer is "not very often", then I don't have a problem. If the answer is "every time you use the saw", then I do.

                  Appreciate your replies.

                  Thanks, Trish

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Hi Trish,
                    I purchased my BS14002 about 5 months ago, and yes you are correct about the lower hexentric bearing shaft situation. You can't remove that shaft and rotate it to the proper position inside its sleeve without removing the table. The back & forth adjusting nut hits the trunnion. My experience was to remove the table, put on a blade, tension and track it correctly (all unplugged of course!). Put the shaft back in and put the bearing on; repeat until it's where it's supposed to be. I've only done this once. I haven't used but 3 different blades 3/8, 1/2, and 3/4. Perhaps a smaller blade will require an additional adjustment.
                    As others have said, with a better aftermarket blade, a link belt, and moving the motor, I'm resawing just fine. I even put on the riser and no worries.
                    Hope this helps

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Bs1402

                      Hello
                      Have been reading for quite some time, but finally registered. I just got finished putting my new bandsaw together and am quite pleased with it. I did not have any of the problems with the blade adjustments. All I had to do was tilt teh table and the lower adjustment were easy to get to and adjusted the same.
                      The only concern I had was the motor mounting, (how much to tighten the mounting bolts and tension to put on the belt). Where do you fine the link belts and do they really cut down on the vibration. I have some vibration and the only noticeable movement is when the saw is slowing down when turned off. Also, what is the clicking sound when the motor is turned off and is slowing down. It clicks once when it is about to stop (as though it is reseting).
                      Thanks, Ron

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Hi Ronald,
                        Yes, the link belt REALLY helps. It did for my BS14002. These can be had from Woodcraft or just about any other woodworking outlet. Often sold with pulleys as a remedy for bad vibes on table saws (Hartville Tool for example).
                        A 4 ft piece is sufficient and allows you to move the motor to the back of the mounting holes so you can open the lower door all the way. Add or subtract a link til the tension works for you.
                        Hope this helps.
                        --RoyH

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Ronald
                          Hello
                          Also, what is the clicking sound when the motor is turned off and is slowing down. It clicks once when it is about to stop (as though it is reseting).
                          Thanks, Ron
                          The clicking sound is the capacitor (the 4" hump on the top of the motor) fully discharging. I think that is right. More electronics savvy folks could verify this.

                          --RoyH

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by RoyH
                            The clicking sound is the capacitor (the 4" hump on the top of the motor) fully discharging. I think that is right. More electronics savvy folks could verify this.

                            --RoyH
                            It is the centrifugal switch on the shaft that is clicking. The switch is used to switch from the start to run windings of the motor. If you listen close you will here it click when you turn it on. It starts in the start winding position after a certain RPM it switched to the run windings. when you shut it off you are hearing it switch back to the start winding position. It is normal to here this.
                            SSG, U.S. Army
                            Retired
                            K.I.S.S., R.T.F.M.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Here is more on how it works.
                              Single-phase AC induction motors
                              Three-phase motors inherently produce a rotating magnetic field. However, when only single-phase power is available, the rotating magnetic field must be produced using other means. Several methods are commonly used.

                              A common single-phase motor is the shaded-pole motor, which is used in devices requiring low torque, such as electric fans or other small household appliances. In this motor, small single-turn copper "shading coils" create the moving magnetic field. Part of each pole is encircled by a copper coil or strap; the induced current in the strap opposes the change of flux through the coil (Lenz's Law), so that the maximum field intensity moves across the pole face on each cycle, thus producing the required rotating magnetic field.

                              Another common single-phase AC motor is the split-phase induction motor, commonly used in major appliances such as washing machines and clothes dryers. Compared to the shaded pole motor, these motors can generally provide much greater starting torque by using a special startup winding in conjunction with a centrifugal switch.

                              In the split-phase motor, the startup winding is designed with a higher resistance than the running winding. This creates an LR circuit which slightly shifts the phase of the current in the startup winding. When the motor is starting, the startup winding is connected to the power source via a set of spring-loaded contacts pressed upon by the not-yet-rotating centrifugal switch. The starting winding is wound with fewer turns of smaller wire than the main winding, so it has a lower inductance (L) and higher resistance (R). The lower L/R ratio creates a small phase shift, not more than about 30 degrees, between the flux due to the main winding and the flux of the starting winding. The starting direction of rotation may be reversed simply by exchanging the connections of the startup winding relative to the running winding.

                              The phase of the magnetic field in this startup winding is shifted from the phase of the mains power, allowing the creation of a moving magnetic field which starts the motor. Once the motor reaches near design operating speed, the centrifugal switch activates, opening the contacts and disconnecting the startup winding from the power source. The motor then operates solely on the running winding. The starting winding must be disconnected since it would increase the losses in the motor.

                              In a capacitor start motor, a starting capacitor is inserted in series with the startup winding, creating an LC circuit which is capable of a much greater phase shift (and so, a much greater starting torque). The capacitor naturally adds expense to such motors.

                              Another variation is the Permanent Split-Capacitor (PSC) motor (also known as a capacitor start and run motor). This motor operates similarly to the capacitor-start motor described above, but there is no centrifugal starting switch and the second winding is permanently connected to the power source. PSC motors are frequently used in air handlers, fans, and blowers and other cases where a variable speed is desired. By changing taps on the running winding but keeping the load constant, the motor can be made to run at different speeds. Also provided all 6 winding connections are available separately, a 3 phase motor can be converted to a capactor start and run motor by commoning two of the windings and connecting the third via a capacitor to act as a start winding.

                              Repulsion motors are wound-rotor single-phase AC motors that are similar to universal motors. In a repulsion motor, the armature brushes are shorted together rather than connected in series with the field. Several types of repulsion motors have been manufactured, but the repulsion-start induction-run (RS-IR) motor has been used most frequently. The RS-IR motor has a centrifugal switch that shorts all segments of the commutator so that the motor operates as an induction motor once it has been accelerated to full speed. RS-IR motors have been used to provide high starting torque per ampere under conditions of cold operating temperatures and poor source voltage regulation. Few repulsion motors of any type are sold as of 2006.
                              SSG, U.S. Army
                              Retired
                              K.I.S.S., R.T.F.M.

                              Comment

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