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Garage Shop - Paint the concrete floor?

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  • Garage Shop - Paint the concrete floor?

    Thanks to everyone who responded to my post regarding shop lighting. My next decision is what to do with my concrete garage floor. I would like to paint it using whatever the proper product and technique are, but I have NEVER talked to anyone who has had success painting their garage floor. The only stories that I have heard have been negative - poor adhesion and peeling.

    Has anybody had success painting their garage floor?

  • #2
    There are several products out there now made specifically for that purpose, I just Googled “garage floor coatings” and got 1.43 million hits. I don’t have any experience with any of them but have read several magazine articles stating that it is not difficult to get real good results, if I recall correctly plan on spending a weekend doing it.



    • #3
      Thats because you have only talked to people who have used the mediocre products available at the box stores and likely have skipped steps in the application process. Go to a concrete supply store and get a real product. Make sure you ask for the application instructions and follow them closely. I have used the behr 1 part epoxy stuff and it did last for 3 years even the lip outside the garage door that is exposed to the elements but it needs to be redone now. I will cost you at least double for the good stuff but you will only do it once


      • #4
        check out the product...... U COAT IT ....... i have used this product before and had very good luck with it, the only reason i have not used it in my current shop is that the floor is so rough that i call it rocks holding hands, it might have been concret about 30 years ago but as soon as i get it repaired or replaced i will then coat it with u coat it. and yes it is "u coat it" not "you coat it"
        9/11/01, never forget.


        • #5
          Make sure that you prepare the garage floor properly before applying anything. As is true with applying any type of finish, prep work is very important in ensuring your end results end up being first rate.
          I decided to change calling the bathroom the "John" and renamed it the "Jim". I feel so much better saying I went to the Jim this morning.


          • #6
            CLeaning and surface preparation are the keys to a successful concrete coating. Don't shortcut these steps, and that includes the drying time after you clean it. To allow the floor to properly dry, you will not be able to do it in a weekend unless you use a waterbased coating, and I am not sure they have shown to be durable. If using a good multi-part epoxy (2 or more components) you will also need good ventilation and a respirator rated for organic vapors. (IMHO Leaving the door open will not by itself give you adequate ventilation to risk not using a respirator.)
            You can expect a properly applied quality epoxy to last 7 to 10 years or longer before recoat as long as you don't wear it away by letting sand and grit accumulate on it and wear it away with you tires, etc. If direct sunlight comes in the door for extended periods, realize that epoxy is degraded by UV light and will oxidize and slowly wear away in those areas. Be aware that it will be slick when wet or oily if you don't add a non-slip grit additive.
            It will make the floor easier to clean and if you use a light color can increase the effectiveness of the lighting as well as prevent the floor from becoming "rocks holding hands".
            Good luck. It isn't a real difficult project (unless your garage is like mine and you have to rent a storage unit to hold all the stuff while you do it!!) but does take time to do it right.

            My $.02

            Practicing at practical wood working


            • #7

              I have considered applying epoxy to the floor, but I am just a little bit scared it will become a slipping hazzard with the sawdust. I have no basis for that concern, but I have it all the same. I can also echo the other comments above regarding quality from the box stores. I have a few neighbors that have done this. One paid to have it professionaly done, a few others applied it themselves from a kit. The profesional application is noticably 10 times the cost.


              • #8
                with a pro concrete shop they will tell you how to add silica sand to the paint mix to eliminate the slip risk


                • #9
                  you know what's neat is those snap n lock garage floor tiles. probably a good chunk of change, but painting never works out.

                  even in new construction with a product from a specialty shop.

                  oil based tend to wear away, and water based peels.


                  • #10
                    I've thought about the interlocking tiles, until the thought of pushing a fully loaded TS2424 on Herc-u-lift with the casters sinking in the plastic sets in. I'd go with the epoxy if I weren't going to close in the garage in the next few years when I get the 16'X20' out back.
                    Only a surfer knows the feeling. Billabong ca. 1985 or so


                    • #11
                      Saw one with the litle flecks sprinkled on and it had to be a nightmare trying to find a dropped screw. Just a thought.



                      • #12
                        I would be curious to hear from more people who have actually done this (or had it done) and what the result was. From the people who I have talked to who have actually done this to their concrete garage floor - the failure rate is higher than the success rate. Thanks


                        • #13
                          I used the HD Epoxy product by Rustoleum....beige with the "flecks of color". Cost about $55. (US) per "bay" (one gallon will easily cover a normal 1 bay garage floor). Had it for over a year, and do most of my work in the garage (just built a deck on the back and ripped quite a few boards...lots of sawdust), and really like the product. I don't recall it being excessively slick, but I can believe that even with the "flecks" that you could slip on it with the sawdust....but I really haven't had a problem. Installation was pretty easy....biggest problem is cleaning the floor. It wasn't especially hard work, but when you hose it down, it'll take a 2 - 3 hours to dry, and typically you have to clean it a couple of times. Comes with a "cleaner" that obviously has some acid content, but not very much. Basically, pour it on, brush a little, and rinse off. If it still has a "powder" finish/dust, or grease spots, etc., then you need to do it again. Mix the epoxy (has maybe 2 hrs of open time), and do a 4 x 4 area and then sprinkle with "flecks", then do the next 4 x 4 area (you don't have to let the first one can roll over the wet edge), really doesn't take a long time to apply the finish. It goes further than you might think, so don't put it on too thin.

                          Again, I'm happy with in the sunny South, and the hot tires, etc., haven't affected it so far.

                          One final a squeezegee (spelling??) to help dry the floor during the cleaning process.


                          • #14
                            I too went over to Menard's and picked up the Rustoleum 2 part stuff. I have a three car 30x25, so the Tiles are out of the question for me... I was getting quotes in the $2,500 - $3,000 range...

                            Acid wash, Rinse and let it dry...

                            TGway stated above he let his dry for 2-3 hours, that makes me a little nervous, but thankfully it sounds like he hasn't had any problems.

                            You want to ductape a hefty bag or something onto your floor, wait 2-3 days and look for water. If you still have water drops on the bag or the concrete looks a little darker (wet) ductape it to another spot and wait another 2-3 days.

                            I let my concrete garage dry (it took) over a week and 1/2. Brand new concrete never put a car in there, so probably very pouris. Plus it was pretty humid out here in chicago after I acid washed, probably added to drying time.

                            Like TGway said, lay it on thick. There's more than enough there, be suprised.

                            Other than the tip of making sure you let it dry for a long time and use the technique to make sure it's COMPLETELY dry, it will last. My old house (lived there for 4 1/2 years) new construction as well, never pulled a car in the garage until I did it there as well. Never pealed or anything...

                            And those nervous with the slip factor they have the additive for the rustoleum stuff at menards too, just add the entire package into the 1 gallan and your good to go...

                            Cheap, lasts, and looks good.

                            Hope this helps; looks like you have two successes (well three I guess) schreibdave!

                            Biggest mistake is fully cleaning and drying time, for pealing. Any dust or water still present when you put on the epoxy it's going to make it come off...

                            Not a weekend job, have to wait for it to dry.
                            Last edited by chAz15; 07-07-2006, 02:49 PM.


                            • #15
                              " Brand new concrete never put a car in there "

                              Probably the concrete is still curing and giving up water as it does so, that is if the pour is less than 6 months old.
                              "It's a table saw, do you know where your fingers are?" Bob D. 2006



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