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New saw blade burning material

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  • New saw blade burning material

    Hi all, I just installed a new blade on my TS 3650, Freud LU84R011 10" x 50-Tooth Combination Blade, to replace the factory blade.
    My problem is that this new blade seam to burn the wood or plywood if I happen to not keep the piece moving as I rip or crosscut.
    I feel it is impossible to have the piece in constant motion, as you need seconds to ajust your hands to make sure you have proper grip on the wood.

    Is this normal?, I am working with Pecan and I am trying to build a L shape desk.
    My workaround so far is to cut the pices 3/32 bigger and then run the piece again using my jointer to take the burns out.

    Any comments, suguestions would be appreciated.


  • #2
    No that's not normal and shouldn't be happening. The first thing that I'd do is double check all your alignments, blade, fence and splitter and make sure that one of them isn't the problem.
    ================================================== ====
    All of us could take a lesson from the weather. It pays no attention to criticism.


    • #3
      I have done it on my RAS , are you sure the blade is spinning the right way? Never used Pecan before and wonder if it has similar burn properties as cherry? Do you get the same burn marks in pine or oak?


      • #4
        I agree with Badger Dave: IMO Sounds like the fence or splitter is out of alignment with the blade (or the blade out of alignment with the table). causing the work piece to press against the side of the blade . If its always burning on the same side, it is because something is putting pressure from that side. If it alternates sides, the splitter mount rod (the thing you slide the splitter on and off of) may be loose and moving on you. If you aren't using the splitter, the wood may be closing up after the cut (common occurence, especially if the wood is green or damp) pinching the back of the blade.
        You also may want to check to make sure there is no trash or burrs between the arbor shoulder and the blade that is causing the blade to run out of true (wobble), or that the blade is not bent.
        Just some thoughts.
        Practicing at practical wood working


        • #5
          As it turns out, BadgerDave you were right!. Looking back I remember using a precision square to make sure the blade was at 90 degrees and in the processes I miss aligned the parallelism of the blade.
          Needless to say the splitter was a bit in the way too.

          I went ahead and re-tuned my TS, checked and double checked parallel and alignment between blade and fence.

          I run a plywood test piece and no burn marks, however it was a small piece. I will try some bigger pieces tonight and see what happens.

          Thanks for the help you all.



          • #6
            Originally posted by olilugo
            As it turns out, BadgerDave you were right!
            So what else is new??
            "Did you put the yellow key in the switch?" TOD 01/09/06