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  • [sorry, duplicate post **DELETED**]

    Message deleted
    Last edited by dp; 06-30-2006, 02:41 PM. Reason: duplicate

  • #2
    Sorry, but a big piece of information is missing... What kind of wood did you use?

    Normally, following the instructions on the can, you brush or rub on the stain and then after a determined number of minutes, you wipe it off. For a typical penetrating stain, the amount of time you wait is going to depend on the ambient temperature/humidity conditions. But, you don't want to let the stain dry on the surface.

    You rub off the stain until you get the color that you wish. If it's too light, you let it dry and then apply a second coat at a later time, repeating the procedure until you reach the tone that you are seeking.

    With a gel-stain, the stain basically sits on the surface of the wood, so rubbing any excess off takes some care.

    Using the "PolyShades", (premixed stain and polyurethane) you don't rub it off at all. After it thoroughly sets, you lightly sand it, thoroughly remove any dust, and then apply the second coat. Again repeating until you reach the color and tone that you want.

    The wood itself is going to have a major influence on your process and the results. Pine, is often spotty with pitch and may well have a high moisture content, especially if purchased at the "big box" stores. Pine and similar woods are quite close grained and often don't absorb penetraiting stains very well, especially with regard to evenness.

    Red oak is very porous and will aborb your stain quite nicely... or so it would appear when you're applying it. Big problem howeve is "bleed-back". You wipe it down to where you like it, and then come back a short time later to see the stain resurfacing, leaving blotches everywhere. Actually to a point where it never seems to really dry.

    I recently refinished the kitchen in a recently purchase home. The wainscote was all red oak. The new cabinets that I purchase were great, but they didn't match the darkened (aged and abused) wainscote. So, I sanded all of the planks down to bare wood and attempted sampling a board with the Minwax "Natural Oak" penetratining stain. Because of the bleed-back I wasn't happy. I also didn't like the results of "gel-stain" color. With the sample board I used for trying to find the right color of penetrating stain, I actually sanded it down about a week after I had applied the oil-based penetrating stain. It was still bleeding!!

    I ended up just putting three coats of oil-base poly on the red oak. It came out very well and very closely matches the cabinets. I'm happy! (BTW, the 1st application of poly was thinned about 50% and the last two coats were thinned to about 80%. The results are that I have a nice finish, no bubbles, and still have the grain texture of the oak.

    I hope this helps,

    CWS

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    • #3
      Thanks, CWS.

      The bench is made of oak, and it appears I am having the bleed back effect. The color came out to be an exact match to our bedroom set, so I'm hoping I can get this under control.

      I think I'll let the bench sit until next week until finishing it.

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