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JP610 and/or TP1300

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  • JP610 and/or TP1300

    I told you guys I was very new to all these tools and setting up a here goes a question that will probably have you guys laughing at me..but I am brave...will it be advantageous to me to buy both the JP610 and the TP1300 or if I buy one can I do without the other? I am here to learn guys so no fair making fun of me. thanks for any input from anyone.....Goldenwing

  • #2
    You got me on the JP610.
    What sort of animal is it?

    As to the planer, they are a must-have if you will require boards that are uniformly thick. The normal procedure for machining a board is:
    1. joint one side to make it flat. Take several light passes at about 1/32" each pass.
    2. place the side you just jointed against the fence and joint the edge. This give you a flat side and an edge that is square to that side.
    3. now run it through the planer with the side you jointed down. A few passes taking 1/32" or so each pass and you have a uniformly thick board.
    4. you can put several boards together and run them through the planer with the jointed EDGE down. Now you have a set of boards that are uniformly thick and wide.
    5. if you don't need uniform width, you can run both edges through the jointer with the jointed edge against the fence.

    Hope this helps.

    rodneyj in tx


    • #3
      JP0610 is a jointer, 'butcher...

      I can agree in principle with number 1, 2, and 3. Replace the word "side" with face. "Side" is any side of a board, edge and face are specific.

      Number 4 is controversial. I steadfastly contend that the tablesaw is more properly suited to this task. You ain't lived until you've seen one board on edge try to fall over in a planer.

      I'm lost on number 5. You run two edges on a jointer, you don't get parallel edges. I almost always want parallel edges.

      For an even more controversial point, I will offer that stock that is already reasonably flat (no twist, only small bow) can have both faces flattened with a planer. Many say that a planer will crush a cupped board flat before planing. That has simply not been my experience.

      I have both a jointer and a planer. If I was pressed to give one up, I could nicely without the jointer. I really wouldn't want to do without a planer.



      • #4
        Sorry I did not list the right number for the joiner/planer....forgot that zero.....the info you gave me was great butcher...and thanks to you too dave.....I was already sure of the planer because I did feel it was an "essential" tool for my little shop.....I guess my question was if it was truly necessary to have both the planer and the jointer. I have the room for both but if I can get by with just the planer and only use the jointer a few times is it a worthwhile investment to have both. I have come to realize that it is so much nicer to do a job and have the right tools on hand. I will keep pondering the question as to whether to buy both or just one. But no matter what tools I buy,they will be Ridgid if Ridgid makes them.....Thanks again guys. Goldenwing


        • #5
          I agree with Dave - use the TS to rip the piece to final width.

          I have both the JP610 and the TP1300. both are valued tools for me.

          The JP610 also does a great job of cutting rabbets. Sure, I can stick the dado set in the TS, but the JP610 is a faster setup.




          • #6
            It all depends on the wood you are using. For me, the planer allows me to buy rough sawn wood (much cheaper) and plane it smooth and also allows me to take a 3/4" board down to 1/2" for drawer sides, etc (until I can pick up the band saw and resaw instead). But if you plan to edge-join boards, I would say the joiner may be incrementally more valuable.
            I use my joiner on almost every project, but use the planer a bit less often. Having said that, I am pleased to have both.